Low band apply or not?

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496 polara

moparts id gch
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Years ago I had a forward pattern manual valve body in my Charger with no low band apply. Didn't care for it so much on the street for on/off the gas in parking lots,slow traffic,etc.

Now that the 505 is in the Duster and running I am having that old trans freshened/updated and to lose the kickdown linkage I am considering a forward pattern manual valve body again. I like low gear braking in first though it may not be needed as much in the lighter car. I could easily pull off in second with the torque this thing makes without the herky/jerky in first and no low band apply.Plus I wouldn't have to buy another valve body. I do have an old TCI (I think) valve body that retains automatic feature but allows full manual control as well.

It is a "street" car but will go to the track for fun.

Pros and cons for either from you guys point of view? Happy to provide any further needed details.
 
The Trans Go TF3 kit gives full manual valve body control and I BELIEVE still has low band apply when done. Do your research, but I think that's right.
 

The Trans Go TF3 kit gives full manual valve body control and I BELIEVE still has low band apply when done. Do your research, but I think that's right.

You are right, I put a TF3 in an a500 years ago. It did call for kick down linkage though. I actually ran mine without the linkage by doing the throttle pressure valve like in a reverse manual vb.
 
I have two cars with rmvb, both without low band apply. If I were to do them again, I would definitely do low band apply.
But I believe the non-apply was originally for a quicker 1-2 shift. It may still be faster...... but imo, that difference is completely insignificant.
Do the apply.
 
My RMVB doesnt have low band apply, and it doesnt bother me at all. When slowing down, it just goes to idle when shifting to first. If I dont stop and reaccelerate, then just shift back to 2nd.

I have heard the first band apply is safer. Remember if doing a burnout or slip due to traction for any reason, shift to 2nd before tires catch
 
My RMVB doesnt have low band apply, and it doesnt bother me at all. When slowing down, it just goes to idle when shifting to first. If I dont stop and reaccelerate, then just shift back to 2nd.

I have heard the first band apply is safer. Remember if doing a burnout or slip due to traction for any reason, shift to 2nd before tires catch
I just always start in second doing a burnout
 
You are right, I put a TF3 in an a500 years ago. It did call for kick down linkage though. I actually ran mine without the linkage by doing the throttle pressure valve like in a reverse manual vb.
That's unusual. If the valve body is full manual and will not shift automatically, there is no need for the kickdown linkage.
 
That's unusual. If the valve body is full manual and will not shift automatically, there is no need for the kickdown linkage.
I thought it strange too at the time. In fact , no linkage is one of the advantages of going manual.

I really wish there was a reasonably priced reverse pattern option for the a500/a518 transmissions.
 
I start all my cars in High Gear on the burnout.

My boy starts in 2nd gear and then shifts to High Gear.

However, occasionally he spins the engine 6800 to 7000
on burn out which scare me.
 
Does anyone on here know what to modify to make a non band apply into a band apply? Anyone have pics of them side by side?

I ask, because there are a lot of smart folks on the forum.
 
727 get a LBA valve body

904, meh... either is fine.
Please explain this, they both have the same things going on inside. The high gear drum will still go 3X RPM upon failure of sprag

image.jpg
 
Please explain this, they both have the same things going on inside. The high gear drum will still go 3X RPM upon failure of sprag

View attachment 1716477586

Size of the drum and critical mass RPM diffences between them. I don't believe it's 3x, it was the first gear ratio in trans.
727 critical mass is around 12K which just about any good running BB can hit. Only about 5000 rpm
904 critical mass is around 23K rpm IIRC. Gotta spin that engine up to some real RPM to hit it. Most street strip stuff never gets there.
 
My 904 doesn't have low band apply. Just got to watch it when coasting and then giving it gas.
 
I am having issue with getting wide open throttle and keeping the kick down linkage happy. Maybe it is the the slant 6 throttle cable and maybe the bouchillon adjustable cable setup. It does flex a bit. We may can modify that.
Other than the extra cost I don't need kickdown linkage for the manual valve body and should have no problem getting wot without it.
It would be kinda nice to keep two hands on the wheel with manual steering for stab and steer though.

Any brand preference for a forward pattern manual valve body?
 
PXL_20251114_014333627.jpg


That brass threaded fitting has a spring inside that allows the kickdown cable to slide and get the adjustment exactly where I want it. Solved early shifts due to cable slack or hard pedal from the kickdown bottoming out before full throttle. Just one method.
 
Size of the drum and critical mass RPM diffences between them. I don't believe it's 3x, it was the first gear ratio in trans.
727 critical mass is around 12K which just about any good running BB can hit. Only about 5000 rpm
904 critical mass is around 23K rpm IIRC. Gotta spin that engine up to some real RPM to hit it. Most street strip stuff never gets there.
 


Is the difference in critical mass rpm addressed for each or a blanket, you need a drum?

727, get a billet drum. I think I saw that before and he says 9k front drum CM speed. His 9K and 12K test results I've seen are both within reach of even stock 383-440's
904 run a good stock piece and don't worry unless you are turning some serious RPM.

Simple and efficient approaches.

It's a 727 issue.

Been at this over 45 years, never seen a 904 explosion. 727's, quite a few including a car we owned, a Polara Wagon.
 
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