Low fuel pressure, new almost everything ! Help

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I had a low pressure issue with a mechanical pump years ago. The rod that is driven by the cam had worn down until it was too short to pump the pump. Swapped in a new one, and was back on the road.

Disconnect your fuel line at the carb and run it into a clean container. Have someone start the car and run it for a few seconds. You should get several cups of fuel at the least.

Be careful and prepare to fight a fire whenever you work on a fuel system.
 
Summit usually has pretty good stuff but i had one of their distributors tear up on me after a couple years. Carter fuel pump in my 340 for 4 years now with no issues just sayin.

Depending on how long ago you bought it they should warranty it.
 
The line from the canister once again is not a vent line. It is for vapor return. That means its original design returned vapors from the canister to the fuel tank, flowing the opposite direction a fuel tank vent would. You can certainly use it for a liquid fuel return though.
 
Oops, still new to this posting process......yes it does have a vent. Was wonding when I should use that. It's a auto meter one, recently replaced from the $5 summit gage. So vent it when it's hot ?
 
As to the tank vent
The tank has to be vented at all times.
As the fuel in the tank gets used up, the space it was occupying has to be replaced with air, otherwise the pump might be able to create enough vacuum that atmospheric pressure will collapse the tank.
During atmospheric temperature swings it's the same thing. The pressure in the tank if it goes higher than atmospheric will want to blow the tank up. If it goes lower, the tank will want to collapse.
So continuous venting is mandatory.
The problem is if you vent it directly to atmosphere, whatever vents, is lost forever, and you already paid for it. So venting the vapors to the charcoal canister is a way of capturing those vapors and reintroducing them to the combustion chamber at an appropriate time.Thus you get the energy that you paid for.So IMO there is no good reason to deep6 the charcoal system on a streeter. One thing I have seen a lot of is those tiny steel vent lines rust up internally at the lowest spot in the line, usually under the the rear seat. This is not something you can blow out. You have to find the plug and cut it out;then replace it. with steel!This system still needs a safety vent at the tank. In the event that the tank gets to operate at well above atmospheric, the cap is supposed to vent the fumes to prevent the tank from bursting. This usually only happens when the aformentioned (good word,hey) steel line rusts up and becomes plugged.
So remember; continuously vented
 
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Since the liquid filled gauges are so sensitive to temperature differences, I'd crack the vent any time you want to take a pressure reading unless the under hood temps are always the same, which they aren't. Otherwise the number the gauge says doesn't mean squat since the pressure inside the gauge will be slightly different than ambient pressure. It takes 5 seconds to crack the vent and ensure the number is accurate.
 
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