Low oil pressure makes me nervous

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into the 3rd page now and no mech gauge hooked up yet to do a simple check that takes all of 10 min .
 
into the 3rd page now and no mech gauge hooked up yet to do a simple check that takes all of 10 min .

Stupid is as stupid does. Nobody else around here hardly ever follows good advice. Why should this one be any different?
 
This post started on the 17 of Aug. and here it is 3 weeks later and no gauge? Maybe he's not so worried anymore.
 
Like I said earlier, if I could purchase a USA made mechanical gauge that I trusted (like the Stewart Warner I purchased back in 1974 or so) I would have made a purchase weeks ago (or years ago!). Not only that, but I am in the middle of a 3000+ mile road trip, so give me a break!
 
Like I said earlier, if I could purchase a USA made mechanical gauge that I trusted (like the Stewart Warner I purchased back in 1974 or so) I would have made a purchase weeks ago (or years ago!). Not only that, but I am in the middle of a 3000+ mile road trip, so give me a break!
OK, middle of a 3K trip, but all the postulating & scheming w/o checking is silly.................and find Grainger, McMaster-carr, plenty of U.S.ofA. gauges out there, Ashcroft
etc., some fittings and a length of line & You're ready.............................................
 
Just fill the motor full of oil up to the valve cover, then look into the fill hole closely for oil pressure while a friend fires it up for ya...
 
I installed the (new and "improved") oil pressure sending unit in place of the existing one (original?) I mentioned in Post #74 above (there was no sealer on the threads so I used teflon tape).

The factory gauge is now reading double (twice as high) during both cold and warm engine operating conditions, compared to what it displayed with the old sending unit. I'm going to relax now, and discontinue checking the oil pressure every 15 seconds like I have been. I still plan to slip a mechanical gauge in there somewhere.
 
If you get the chance, check the resistance of the sender to ground (the sender case), with the sender wire disconnected, and with the engine warmed up and idling. Then use your 'translation chart' and you 'll have a better idea if the real pressure.

Sounds like you can lighten up on the oil too.
 
This guy just got out of the "nervous hospital" :)
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No really, synthetics are meant for tighter oil clearance specs, not for old loose oil clearances like in an LA engine for example. When synth first came out, it was leaking past the oil seals when wise guys started putting it in old design engines. Its a waste of $$ unless the engine is high tech and calls for it.
 
This is precisely the reason there are no numbers on factory Mopar gauges besides the tach and speedo... Just a pointer to tell you if something is too high, too low, or good enough. I remember the first time I drove my Duster after I had installed all aftermarket Auto Meter gauges (water temp, oil press, volts, fuel), made the stock gauges seem like a joke. Especially water temp, I used to think it took 15 minutes just for the engine to start warming up... NOPE the stock gauge just doesn't start to move until it gets past 150 degrees lol.
 
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