Need help with a 360 crate 300HP did a tune up and even swapped carbuators. I have the initial timing set at 10* BTDC and total set at 37*. when motor revs up between 1200 and 1400 RPM it sputters then runs fine. Can't find the problem. It also does it with the vacuum advance hooked up. Do I need more initial timing?
Low RPM sputter
- Thread starter bigred36
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bad440
everything,all the time..
i would think so, my 360 is at 18 to 20 initial and 36 total
Loosen the distributor hold down and turn it slightly to advance it. It almost sounds as if you have a low pump shot in the carb.
With the car not running remove your air filter and look down in the carb and move your throttle as if you are giving it gas. You should see a stream of gas instantly from the squirter.
Remember timing first, carb adjustment second.
I run 18* initial, 38* total all in by 2500.
tekslk
Well-Known Member
I also have 19 initial and a total of 36. Just my 2 cents.
moper
Well-Known Member
Disconnect the vacuum advance and see if it goes away. If it does, pull off the hose from the vacuum advance can (engine off) and stick an 11/32 allen wrench downt he nipple the hose was on. You should be able to feel it go it and engage a hex inside the vacuum can. Turn the wrench counterclockwise 2 turns, adn reconnect everything. If it does it, go another two turns. If it stops, leave it there. If it get's to the point where you feel the wrench "skip" and hear a click, leave it disconnected and cap the line to the carb.
Thanks for all the info I will give it a try.
If my initial needs to be increased and my max timing passes 38* do I need to weld the slots smaller decreasing the Dist advance travel?
I have tried to bring my initial to 16 and my total would be 42
If my initial needs to be increased and my max timing passes 38* do I need to weld the slots smaller decreasing the Dist advance travel?
I have tried to bring my initial to 16 and my total would be 42
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
are you getting 5-7 lbs of fuel pressure? sounds like a lean spot to me
green1
Well-Known Member
It's hard to tell. Start with low speed. Vacuum gauge, raise timing to the most(have to keep adjusting idle down). Turn it off, and see if it will start ok.
If not, back off timing until it is ok. That is what the engine wants on intial timing.
Now you probably have too much total advance. Using a timing light; write down initial, then rev to 3500,, read total. Write down. Example; it was 6 initial, now 18. That threw my old total up to 58. So pull out 12 degrees from the mechanical advance inside the dist.
Your engine may want more or less than the 36 total I said. Research ping.
Once timing is ok; carb tuning time. I fought Holleys, and the jets, bleeds for years. Then a bud bought an Eddy (Carter). So easy to tune.It costs $60 for the jet , springs, and metering rods kit, but infinite tuning. For bogs, for just on primaries, for wide open.
Read up on them, they don't like over 7 psi pressure, In the '60's, common guy had no info or access to kits. Ran Holleys. No the Carter is piece of cake.
Timing first, then carb. Then dist curve.
If not, back off timing until it is ok. That is what the engine wants on intial timing.
Now you probably have too much total advance. Using a timing light; write down initial, then rev to 3500,, read total. Write down. Example; it was 6 initial, now 18. That threw my old total up to 58. So pull out 12 degrees from the mechanical advance inside the dist.
Your engine may want more or less than the 36 total I said. Research ping.
Once timing is ok; carb tuning time. I fought Holleys, and the jets, bleeds for years. Then a bud bought an Eddy (Carter). So easy to tune.It costs $60 for the jet , springs, and metering rods kit, but infinite tuning. For bogs, for just on primaries, for wide open.
Read up on them, they don't like over 7 psi pressure, In the '60's, common guy had no info or access to kits. Ran Holleys. No the Carter is piece of cake.
Timing first, then carb. Then dist curve.
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