I had dreaded doing this job for several years, was pretty darn easy with power tools and a shop press. disassembly was a breeze, don't even need a torsion bar tool, prying on the LCA simply pushed it and the T-Bar back far enough to clear the pivot shaft and then pull the arm off the hex on the T-bar. No busted knuckles or even cussing this timeO
I decided to make it a bigger job by replacing the tie rod ends and ball joints, the lowers were replaced 25yrs ago with JC Whitney stuff and the boots are torn to shreds. May as well do it right the first time. Here is a pic showing it ready to come off the car for anybody contemplating the complexity of this job:
You can see pivot shaft stayed in the k-member when arm was levered off due to rubber bushing being completely torn/separated from inner/outer shell. Only thing that keeps that shaft from spinning on re-install is the press fit of the bushing. You may need to hold that pivot shaft with vise grips during removal of nut on opposite side of k-member (not shown), even if you use an impact wrench.
I sprayed my LCA and torsion bars with a concoction of rustoleum, acetone and synthetic enamel hardner. Man this stuff is cheap and it cross links to form a semi shiny black finish that is chemical resistant and cures in only 12 hours compared to 3 days straight out of the can. I didn't want to waste imron on stuff that gets a coat of road film. Couldn't believe how much harder this stuff sets up this way, almost like two part auto enamel. If I want more shine I cut it with enamel/urethane reducer.