Lower intake manifold cracked.

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wheelz 63 dart gt

wheelz 63 dart gt

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I can not believe how dishonest people can be when u buy a car. I was told that my engine was rebuilt with only about 5000 miles on her. The gaskets did look new but i still wanted to pull the motor and make sure things were done right. I cant believe this s#*t I am finding. Missing bolts and the lower intake manifold has a broken bolt in it along with a fracture.I was going to easy out the bolt,then i found the crack. I will find a new manifold. Any body have one. Just the lower manifold though. Thanks.
 
That's probably the exhaust manifold you're talking about.
 
Welcome 8-) Sorry I did not catch you in the welcome wagon thread :D, I need to spend more time there :D.
I am lost on your needs , But not lost that there are con's and people taking advantage of other people and there cash in this world, Sorry to here you are another member of getting ripped off Club :-&:-&
Yes there are many dishonest people out there working hard to make the buck :sad11:
When you say lower intake bolt and bad intake :study:
what kind of intake and do you have an intake bolt that is broke off and just need a bolt.

I bet if I can find one I can mail it out to you
 
StrokerScamp said:
That's probably the exhaust manifold you're talking about.
Click to expand...
Good day to you SS :D This kind of stuff I have seen around here in Arkansas
He made a smart move taking it apart and plastic gage it and build it his self.
Been there
 
To be fair, the slant 6 exhaust manifold cracks real easy and sometimes in areas hard to see. A broken off bolt in the manifold too? Gee, there is a surprise....If you didn't see it when you inspected it prior to purchase, the P.O. probably didn't know about them either. If you plan on owning a slant 6 for very long, get used to R&R'ing the exhaust manifold with today's Ca. fuel. It won't your last.
 
Yeah, im sorry , the intake was fine, the exhaust was cracked. When I bought the car I was so excited about buying it i did not inspect it as well as i should. Yea, im missing the front bolt that goes throgh the hole in the in take and holds the intake, and exhaust together. I did put some JB weld on my crack. Maybe that will hold it until i get a new exhaust manifold.
 
Remember when you install it, only torque the nuts down 10-12 INCH pounds. Anything more will almost certainly lead to another cracked exhaust.
 
Have you found one yet? I have one, but shippin from Georgia would be a beeotch.
 
You can try one of the big box parts stores for a Dorman manifold. The Dorman part number is 674-232.

It comes with
Hardware : 2 Studs, 2 Nuts, 1 Heat Riser Spring
Gaskets : 1 Manifold & 1 Flange

You could also order it through an on-line retailer e.g. Rock Auto, but then you have to pay the freight for sure.
 
Fastenal can order studs that'll work for the slant, (1/4-20 on one end, 1/4-24 on the other, grade 8) But they only sell in industrial-size packs. I've not found the studs sold by themselves anywhere else.

If you just put the coarse thread studs in place of the factory ones, you'll need to torque the manifolds more. How much more I'm not sure.
 
also when you get the new manifold i would recommend getting the thick remflex gasket so you wont have to worry about much warpage.
 
I got the studs from fastenal. The guy sold them seperately. He was cool about it. I still have to easy out the broken stud out of the exhaust manifold. I Put jb weld on the crack and free;d up the frozen flap. Can some one tell me how the cold start choke works on that car. How do I hook it up?
 
The choke contains a bimetal spring with a rod attached to one end and the choke flap is attached to the other end of the rod. As the spring heats up, it trys to unwind forcing the rod to open the choke flap in the carb. There are two adjustments but unless something is bent or has been misadjusted, you shouldn't have to change anything. If needed, there is one adjustment at the inner anchor of the spring which is for rich/lean and the other is made by bending the rod to get the correct throw so the flap completely closes cold and completely opens hot. You'd have to get the factory service manual to see which rich/lean settings your particular engine/carb/model uses. With today's gasoline is a guessing game anyway!
 
Complete new cast exhaust manifolds that have modern ribbing and decent metellurgy are around 90 bucks on Ebay and shipping is 'bout 12 bucks. Check 'em out. I used a carb stud. The light inch lb torque rating is to allow the exhaust manifold to expand and slide on the gasket, read and heed! Too tight and it'll crack over time, and make sure the cone washers dont touch either wall of the manifold when they are torqued, they need some slide room. When replacing the studs, use some good liquid silver anti-seize on them and use torch heat to help remove them or you'll break a few more on the way out.
 
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