Ok, so now I've been able to go for a few drives with the new power disc conversion in and new wheels and it turns out that my brakes are randomly dragging. It's typically once I'm stopped at a long light, then I go to hit the gas and can tell the brakes are locked up. Then I stomp the brake pedal until it releases and then the car takes off. It's causing my engine to overheat though.. After googling the issue I found that the caliper pins should be greased....yet I have loaded calipers so there are no pins to grease. Does anyone know whether I should grease any portion of the brake pad hardware? I checked youtube and google and can't find any reference on lubricating loaded calipers. After inspecting one of them it does seem there is no play whatsoever on the brake pads and the piston is actually forming an impression on the back of the brake pad sitting against it. Seems like some light grease could potentially solve the issue. I already searched the brake threads in the forum and found nothing. Any thoughts?
Lubricate Loaded Calipers? Brakes dragging intermittently
- Thread starter Fitz68
- Start date
-
AlV
Crabs in a barrel
I did this, not sure if it will help you.
You left out a lot of information to tell us.
You replace the flex line, rubber hoses?
Old ones collapse internally, and don't allow fluid to flow properly.
Power brakes?
Your rod out of the booster, to the rear of the master cylinder, needs adjusting.
Look into those things before you get too deep into it.
You replace the flex line, rubber hoses?
Old ones collapse internally, and don't allow fluid to flow properly.
Power brakes?
Your rod out of the booster, to the rear of the master cylinder, needs adjusting.
Look into those things before you get too deep into it.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I don't think I've ever lubed those pins, and have had no problems. Check hemi71's post. Any reason to assume something might be binding? Are these factory or fabbed caliper brackets?
I would CERTAINLY look into clean release at the master. You can remove the cap, "shield" it with the cap or rags, and have someone apply and release the brakes. You should see a "backflow" of fluid up into the reservoir
I would CERTAINLY look into clean release at the master. You can remove the cap, "shield" it with the cap or rags, and have someone apply and release the brakes. You should see a "backflow" of fluid up into the reservoir
All new disc brake kit. New MC, booster, hard lines, prop valve, flex hoses, rotors, spindles, upper control arm, brake assemblies. All from a kit from Classic Performance Parts(CPP). I've had the system power bled and it's working well...except the random sticking. I've also emailed CPP to see what they have to say about it.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
If it's locking where you can actually feel it, it's probably the pistons binding in the caliper bores.
Sounds like it anyway, from the having to stomp the pedal to get it to release.
In this case greasing things isn't going to help. (shouldn't have to grease anything anyway)
If it were my car doing that and not under a seller warrantee I'd pull the calipers apart and make sure the piston bores were nice and polished.
Talk to the dealer about it like you said.
Sounds like it anyway, from the having to stomp the pedal to get it to release.
In this case greasing things isn't going to help. (shouldn't have to grease anything anyway)
If it were my car doing that and not under a seller warrantee I'd pull the calipers apart and make sure the piston bores were nice and polished.
Talk to the dealer about it like you said.
Look into the rod that goes into the Master or booster sounds like it is just out of adjustment, had the same problem. Back it of a turn or two and drive it.
You really should secure that outer pad in place even if it's not part of the problem.
The last thing I do before putting the wheels on ( helper holding the brake pedal down ) is force a wedge between the rotors hub and the bottom of the outer pad to hold that pad up while I knock/bend the 2 upper tabs down against the caliper. Messy blue glue optional.
The last thing I do before putting the wheels on ( helper holding the brake pedal down ) is force a wedge between the rotors hub and the bottom of the outer pad to hold that pad up while I knock/bend the 2 upper tabs down against the caliper. Messy blue glue optional.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I don't think they would release at all if that was the problem.
He said if he stomps the pedal it will let go.
I thought I was probably the only one that ever did that.
I tap my big blade screwdriver in there between the rotor hub and the bottom of the pad backing metal, then tap the top tabs down tight to the caliper.
I don't think they would release at all if that was the problem.
He said if he stomps the pedal it will let go.
I thought I was probably the only one that ever did that.
I tap my big blade screwdriver in there between the rotor hub and the bottom of the pad backing metal, then tap the top tabs down tight to the caliper.
I've had to file fit several pad backing plates to fit calipers too. Those plates are stamped out rather than machine cut and may be half *** de burred. Of course the lower the cost the more likely the retouching.
So should the pad that sits against the piston should just slide freely inside the caliper without and lubrication? It certainly doesn't move freely so perhaps I do need to file down the edges....I thought some silicon brake grease might get me there as well. I'll try to figure out how to get that outer pad locked down by bending the tab. I really don't think my clearance between my booster push rod and MC is off because it's not locking up consistently.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
This is my own opinion, so take it with a grain of salt if you wish.
Filing so the pad floats freely is going to make little difference unless it's literally jammed in there so tight you need to hit with something to get it out.
Just think about the forces involved here.
A sticky pad isn't going to be able to make any noticeable difference at all when you figure that it takes hundreds of pounds of pressure on those pads to stop the rotor.
(It's not like they have to travel to release, but just that the pressure is released)
I actually prefer that they are semi tight in the caliper so they don't rattle over bumps when not in use.
You are going to be looking for a part that jambs (like a caliper piston) or fluid not returning and letting the pressure off.
It could be the rod as suggested above, but if it is the rod it would have to be so close to releasing that the pedal bouncing back (sometimes) allows the piston in the master to clear the return port.
Again, all of the above is just my opinion from decades of professional and personal experience.
Mopar to ya
Well-Known Member
Of course the pins should be lubricated. Any moving part should be lubricated. If you bought loaded calipers, though, the guide pins are probably already lubed. The pads slides on the bracket need to be lubed, however. You may have all new hardware, but it needs to be slippery new hardware. We see cars in the shop all the time with uneven pad wear between the inside and outside pads. It is almost always a guide pin or slide issue. They stick in place. Like most good things in life, lube is a wonderful thing.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Booted pins, yes.
Lube collects dust and then slider type just get more stuck.
Clean dry surfaces on sliders for me and never a problem with them.
I realize some disagree with that though. (obviously)
mguner
How many is too many?
Phenolic or Stainless pistons in the caliper? Phenolic pistons although nice in theory as far as heat transfer, were prone to binding. The issue you describe is either residual pressure or the fit of the caliper to the bracket or pins. The method that allows the caliper to center on the rotor and get even pad wear. If it is residual pressure you will get even wear. If it is the slider mechanism one pad will wear more than the other noticeably.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
So I guess no one realizes that the once installed slides don't move until the pads wear, and cannot cause binding brakes all of a sudden unless the caliper cannot re center itself. (as the pads wear)
there aren't any return springs so any release movement is caused by square cut O rings. There is no way a rotor can run so true as to not kick the outer pad away from the rotor a few thousandths, unless the caliper cannot move in the ways or on the pins depending on what design it is. Pin mounted calipers do relieve the outer pad better than calipers in machined ways due to again square cut rubber at the pins.
The factory service manuals show rubber bands used at way mounted calipers but we rarely see those in use.
I really doubt any of this is relative to sticking to overheating brakes but.. when the caliper does release force on the outer pad that pad should go with the caliper and not lay loose against the rotor.
The factory service manuals show rubber bands used at way mounted calipers but we rarely see those in use.
I really doubt any of this is relative to sticking to overheating brakes but.. when the caliper does release force on the outer pad that pad should go with the caliper and not lay loose against the rotor.
Redfish--but the way this caliper is designed it seems as if the only moving part is the piston which pushes the inner pad against the rotor. I'm a newb, and certainly no brake expert, but I don't see how the outer pad can do anything except just sit against the rotor if the only moving part is the inner pad and piston. I'm probably just missing something..
A floating caliper slides forward and back to center itself to the rotor either via machined ways or on guide pins though it. A fixed caliper will have pistons inner and outer, such as the KH 4 piston calipers.
LOL---this caliper is a single piston caliper which only pushes out the inner brake pad. The outer brake pad just sits in the caliper. Not sure if you can tell from the picture from my initial post...I can post additional pics if that'll help. This caliper seems to be an anomaly!
mguner
How many is too many?
No mystery here just a few folks over thinking it.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Not overthinking, just discussing.
Fitz, the caliper you have is probably just like this picture.
The entire caliper slides as the pads wear, so the outer pad moves with the whole sliding assembly. (Caliper body)
The inner pad of course is moved by the piston.
The bracket for the caliper that bolts to the hub has two machined areas that the caliper mates to with to matching machined areas on the calipers. (marked as slides in the pic)
The retainers basically just keep the caliper from popping up out of the slides, and the anti rattle clips use spring type pressure to hold the pads from rattling around in there when the brakes are not in use. (like the pads not having pressure on them and going over bumps, holes or cracks in the road surface.)
The calipers themselves really only have forward and backward pressures on them so those light metal caliper retainers are plenty to keep the caliper from popping up, and out of the slide grooves.
Those slide surfaces are what some/most believe should be lubed on assembly, and they are correct.
Personally, I don't like anything on there that can collect dust and cause the caliper to get stuck or bound up when dust or dirt does get added to the mix.
Anti seize (like the stuff for spark plug threads is just about the only thing I would ever use on those surfaces if anything other than a good wire brushing)
I do a wheels off inspection and cleaning 3-4 times a year where I check pads, seals and the grease in the bearings so maybe that's the main reason I never have a problem doing nothing to the slide surfaces but a good cleaning.
But after going back and looking again at your picture, it looks like bolt slides.
The same info applies for those also, but the caliper is allowed to slide on lubed bolt instead of a machined mating surface, and those clean metal tabs on your caliper act as anti rattle devices by pressing down on the pad by using the bolt head at one end and the bolt shaft at the other.
-
