Lunati 60403 street ability?

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mbaird

mbaird

mbaird
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this cam seems to get a lot of cudos....I am a little out of touch with modern cam profiles. seems like fast ramp angles.
Will I have issues with cam beak in , mid range torque etc....

Running a 360 .030 over.. , J heads bowl blended and ports smoothed out (2.02 intakes) , 10:1 comp , LD340 intake , 340 exhaust manifolds or TTI's if I feel rich ! Built 904 with 2200 range stall and 3.55 gears.

Thanks
 
BTW, I am just looking for an efficient yet quick street cruiser.. If I wanted to be faster than everybody else I would build a big stocker with a roller.
 
some cam specs would help better than a num mostly dur at 50
 
Ran a Hughes cam similar to this in 1991 and wiped out a cam lobe. Probabably due to break in and poor breakin oil.... would you recomend breaking in with 1spring ?
 
mbaird said:
Ran a Hughes cam similar to this in 1991 and wiped out a cam lobe. Probabably due to break in and poor breakin oil.... would you recomend breaking in with 1spring ?
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o n some cams they do recomend this but better to talk to the cam company you pick they know best and they are wiling to help
 
Here's the deal - The Voo Doo line has a fast ramp speed compared to the other major cam grinders' with the exception of Hughes. Which is also why Hughes tends to tell you run their springs. It's the main reason all the Voo Doo cams require a dual valve spring and as a builder I tend to use whatever the cam maufacturer tells me to use for a given cam and any engine that requires true dual valve spings you MUST remove the inner spring for the cam break in process. As a refresher - a performance spring has an outer srping with a flat wound dampener in it. See the Comp 901-16 as an example. A dual spring assembly has the outer spring with the inner flat wire dampener, plus a smaller diameter inner spring that is easilly left out by your builder and replaced after the engine's cam is broken in. The 10200703 (what the 60403 changed part number to) is no exception in terms of springs - it requires a dual spring that requires the guides and seats be cut on factory heads, and that the inner be left out during cam break in.
It actually surprised me with the idle quality and vacuum in the engine I ran it in - a modified 318. I think it would be a great choice for a mild 360.
On the break in process - this really starts at the point the heads are assembled without the inner springs and the rockers are torqued down. That's long before the engine starts or you add oil. You can put on the cam break in lube when the cam's installed. But by the time you've got it ready to fire it's been rotated a bunch of times and the break in lube has been mostly wiped off. The more spring pressure you have, the more likely it will be rubbed off. I always make the pushrods and rockers the last thing I do and once they're on - don't turn the engine unless you have to (bolting on the convertor to flex pate, etc.) Also - the engine has to fire immediately. You have to know the ignition works and is timed properly, the fuel system is primed and working, and that the cooling system is adequate (and I fill mine with water so if it overflows or burps I can top it off easy while it's running and it doesnt waste coolant). The oil you use should be one high in zink - I use the Not For Street Use Valvoline VR1 for break in and depending on the engine - it might be the oil spec'd for it's service life. Another option is to use whatever oil you want and the Comp additive. No matter how you do it - the zink in the oil must be addressed - IMO running any standard SAE rated "starburst" oil with no additive is asking for a problem now-a-days. You can afford good oil if you can afford to build the engine. These caras are not being driven as much or as far and oil change intervals at least where I am are twice in 6 months barring any problems.
So that's my take anyway...
 
got it....good info.

that initial start is always nerve racking...
 
I'm building a 318 in a similar fashion with a Hughes cam that is a little lower, but still lots of ramp.

I set up a fresh, twin carbed 426maxwedge with a Hughes high lift with points ignition. It was sort of nerve wracking, but I did the same thing that Moper suggested above; double checked distributor, wires, confirmed spark by rotating the distributor, loose, past the breaker with the ignition in run position, with the wire pointed at the exhaust manifold, primed the carbs with a squirt bottle into the fuel feed line until the bowls were full, then down the primaries on both carbs, good break in lube on the cam from the manu, matched springs, put rocker shafts on after flex plate install, good oil with zinc additive and break in sequence as per their suggestion in RPM bursts, etc.

Just had the ignition in run to final check spark, triggered the starter relay with a manual button, gave the idle speed screws a couple of cranks each before starting, to get RPM up on first start, timing light in one hand, start button in the other, kicked it over, set the start button down, grabbed the dist cap, rotated it, then dropped the idle screws, played with dist cap a little more, then ran it through RPM cycles. Everything went off without a hitch. If I had to do it again, I'd have sent it to the exhaust shop for a full system, instead of open tubes off of the ramhorn manifolds and I'd probably wear ear protection. Scared the daylights out of my boss, when it started. He wasn't expecting it!

moper said:
I use the Not For Street Use Valvoline VR1 for break in and depending on the engine - it might be the oil spec'd for it's service life.
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VR1 would work great for break-in. The reason they don't want you using it on the street isn't so much because of the more modern zinc restrictions in oil for emissions, but rather because VR1 and any other modern race-spec oil is devoid of the detergents in the additive pack that keeps carbon/sludge buildup from accumulating in the oil areas. Race engines are typically higher maintenance and usually don't survive long enough to need detergent in the additive pack. They don't get as dirty inside, due to frequent changes and more frequent disassembly and reassembly.
 
Dave - The Not for Street Use is labeled that way because the higher zink content has a good potential to damage catalytic convertors on modern cars. That's the reason the zink packages have been cut in SAE rated oils too. It has nothing to do with the lack of detergents.
 
moper said:
dave - the not for street use is labeled that way because the higher zink content has a good potential to damage catalytic convertors on modern cars. That's the reason the zink packages have been cut in sae rated oils too. It has nothing to do with the lack of detergents.
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x2........Race oils for dozens of years have always lacked detergents.
 
2004,Kendall got bought out,by Conoco Phillips. Sure enough,my Rat lobes survived(Crower Pro55 billet.The hardened lobes,are there,full lift even today. The lifter,became the fuse.Solid lifters,BTW. Run the good oil.Or use 1/2 a at,of the Lucas cam break in slime,each oil change. Please buy some headers.....
 
I will go with it.
what about lifters? I believe I have a set of mopar hydraulics in the garage...
NIB...I won't go cheap but if I already have a usable component I might as well use them..
BTW... what is the difference between the big block lifter and the LA ?
I tried to do some research with no results...
 
I'm running the small 60401 in my 360 Magnum and it's a torque monster, idles smooth as glass at 800 rpm. I don't have the dual springs Lunati sells but I have the Magnum springs from Hughes (#1110 I believe?) which spec out the same as far as spring rate, etc. I have only revved it up to 5500 to check if there was valve float (there was none), with my combo it runs out of breath around 5000. I need to get the 60403 or 60404 and let those cubes breathe properly lol...
 
moper said:
Dave - The Not for Street Use is labeled that way because the higher zink content has a good potential to damage catalytic convertors on modern cars. That's the reason the zink packages have been cut in SAE rated oils too. It has nothing to do with the lack of detergents.
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I'm aware of the zinc interfering with the platinum in the catalytic converter, which is why the huge shift in rollerizing everything these days, but I also know that not having detergents in a street driven engine that will see higher mileage between rebuilding or cleanup is bad news.

http://www.ehow.com/about_6761438_detergent-vs_-non_detergent-motor-oil.html

I think a low detergent oil with zinc is best. High detergent oils can counteract zinc, because it doesn't descriminate on what it binds to and keeps from binding to metal, be it sludge/ carbon or other anti-shear agents, like zinc. There is a balance, but I won't run straight race oil in cars that get lots of miles put on them.

A lot of zinc in additive packs vary on how much heat and pressure they need for activation. There are quicker and slower activating ZDDP additive pack oils out there.

There is another company using the Kendall refinery facility now that makes good oil. The name eludes me at the moment, if someone else knows what I'm refering to, feel free to chime in, but if nothing else, I can check with a friend, tomorrow.
 
Bonds,....Dave Bonds...That would be Penn State. As for Max Wedges....:cheers: These crank,I prefer these over Hemis.
 
It's Penn something Brad Penn does ring a bell. There is a distributor over here that does changes and sells the goop by the case. It's supposed to be pretty badass stuff. I'll give my buddy Jerry a call and find out for sure. he's running it in a black '63 Savoy that is in my garage, at the moment.
 
DaveBonds said:
It's Penn something Brad Penn does ring a bell. There is a distributor over here that does changes and sells the goop by the case. It's supposed to be pretty badass stuff. I'll give my buddy Jerry a call and find out for sure. he's running it in a black '63 Savoy that is in my garage, at the moment.
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Actually, it's good old Kendall GT-1 in a new bottle.
 
Everything that carries the SAE starburst and has a rating of SM or newer (SL is the previous rating) needs a zink supplement. I used to like Kendall - haven't seen it in years tho.
 
DaveBonds said:
It's Penn something Brad Penn does ring a bell. There is a distributor over here that does changes and sells the goop by the case. It's supposed to be pretty badass stuff. I'll give my buddy Jerry a call and find out for sure. he's running it in a black '63 Savoy that is in my garage, at the moment.
Click to expand...

OnTrack Performance off Santa Fe sells brad penn oil, there are many different types and weights to suit your engine... Pretty sweet but pricey of course
 
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