Magnum Adventure

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Bought the EQ's Night and day difference. 172 cc intake port,vs. 153 c.c.,stock . Cleaner castings,better exhaust flow .Love. them,I do.
 
Well, the guy I bought the 360 magnum from returned most of the money and is going to give me 2 more sets of magnum heads to check out. With my luck all four will be cracked.:violent1:

EQ heads... riddle me this Batman...what are the Monster Magnum EQ heads? I can find the EQ magnums with the LA bolt pattern with 1.92/1.625 valves or 2.02/1.625 valves or EQ Monster Magnums with 2.02/1.625 valves. I can also find the EQ magnums bare for $290 each. I should have enough valves springs and retainers to fill them. I have to assume there is no valve job on the bare heads.

Any have the low down?
 
I went EQ CH318B castings,to my door.306 a head,15.00 shipped .Unless, you need,450+ h.p,stick with 1.92 castingss.Lapped in,the set cutter job.Looks nice,to me....
 
I spoke with the folks at Clearwater Cylinder heads about the EQ Monster Magnums they sell. As it turns out, it is the same EQ head casting, it is just put together with special retainers, locks, springs, and the correct machining to actually support a full .600" lift.

I ended up ordering a pair of the standard EQ heads with stainless 2.02" intakes and 1.625" exhaust valves and the correct springs to support my .515" lift camshaft. These heads are the version with the LA intake bolt pattern. They perform 5 angle valve jobs on the intake valve seat and 3 angle valve jobs on the exaust seat. The cost to my door was $400 per head with $30 shipping each. ($430 total ea)

Since these heads are now going to be bolted on a LA block, can I use the head bolts from my Magnum engine?
 
Buy new ones,Fel Pro 35 bucks for the set.Stock bolts,torque to yield,means used once and done.
 
Give us a report when you get the heads.
What cam are you using?
 
sledger46 said:
I spoke with the folks at Clearwater Cylinder heads about the EQ Monster Magnums they sell. As it turns out, it is the same EQ head casting, it is just put together with special retainers, locks, springs, and the correct machining to actually support a full .600" lift.

I ended up ordering a pair of the standard EQ heads with stainless 2.02" intakes and 1.625" exhaust valves and the correct springs to support my .515" lift camshaft. These heads are the version with the LA intake bolt pattern. They perform 5 angle valve jobs on the intake valve seat and 3 angle valve jobs on the exaust seat. The cost to my door was $400 per head with $30 shipping each. ($430 total ea)

Since these heads are now going to be bolted on a LA block, can I use the head bolts from my Magnum engine?
Click to expand...

I've read mixed things about Clearwater cylinder machining.
 
Thanks for the heads up on Clearwater. I will reserve judgment until I see the products.
Thanks,
 
Forgot to mention the head bolts on a Magnum,have different lengths,than LA bolts.If using a built LA,order the good ARP bolts.If you add power adders.
 
I am bolting the Magnum heads to an LA block, so I am assuming I use the head bots that match the heads(Magnum head bolts)....right? I was planning to run the thin head gaskets to maximize the compression. I am not planning on running any power adders with this setup.

I am going the run the roller cam I originally ordered for the Magnum 360. It should be pretty mild and hopefully a torque monster with 224/230 .050" numbers and .515" lift on 110 LSA.

I pulled the intake and front cover over the weekend. The hardest part was getting the lifters out. Can anyone tell me if I will have to pull the grill out of my 67 Dart to get the cam out? I know I will have to move my transmission cooler as it sits dead center in front of the radiator.
 
sledger46 said:
I am bolting the Magnum heads to an LA block, so I am assuming I use the head bots that match the heads(Magnum head bolts)....right? I was planning to run the thin head gaskets to maximize the compression. I am not planning on running any power adders with this setup.

I am going the run the roller cam I originally ordered for the Magnum 360. It should be pretty mild and hopefully a torque monster with 224/230 .050" numbers and .515" lift on 110 LSA.

I pulled the intake and front cover over the weekend. The hardest part was getting the lifters out. Can anyone tell me if I will have to pull the grill out of my 67 Dart to get the cam out? I know I will have to move my transmission cooler as it sits dead center in front of the radiator.
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How are you going to run a magnum roller cam in a LA 360 block???
 
replicaracer43 said:
How are you going to run a magnum roller cam in a LA 360 block???
Click to expand...

Physically the cams fit in either block (LA and Magnum). I had to order my cam ground on a LA cam blank in order to get the longer snout for the fuel pump eccentric. You have to use retrofit roller lifters in the LA block. I was planning to use the Hughes roller lifters. For the price of the roller lifters, you could get an entire Magnum engine from the junkyard.
 
you will have to remove the grille.

and cudamike13 used AMC roller lifters, the stock ones, and I think some kinda Ford push rods and made his magnum heads work. Saw it with my own two eyes
 
sledger46 said:
Can you give me a part number for AMC roller lifters? I am guessing they had factory link bars?
Click to expand...

I don't think AMC made an engine with a roller cam. Likely a retrofit for AMC engines that has the oil holes in the lifters. When running a flat tappet and magnum heads in a non-magnum LA block, you use AMC lifters and hollow pushrods.
 
dano said:
I don't think AMC made an engine with a roller cam. Likely a retrofit for AMC engines that has the oil holes in the lifters. When running a flat tappet and magnum heads in a non-magnum LA block, you use AMC lifters and hollow pushrods.
Click to expand...
You are probably correct. I was not 100% on that.
 
What about just sleeving the one bad cylinder in the magnum block and picking up a new piston? I ran sleeves in racing motors and would not hesitate to run one on the street.
 
I hadn't thought about sleeving the cylinder. How much would you have to bore that one cylinder to be able to sleeve it back to the stock diameter? What happens if you eventually need to bore the block and replace the other pistons?
 
sledger46 said:
I hadn't thought about sleeving the cylinder. How much would you have to bore that one cylinder to be able to sleeve it back to the stock diameter? What happens if you eventually need to bore the block and replace the other pistons?
Click to expand...
It would be sleeved back to std.... then bore to the same size as the other cylinders
 
To properly install a sleeve most of the original cylinder wall is removed, with a step at the bottom of the cylinder to retain it. It is milled flush with the deck and once the head is bolted on, is essentially locked into place. It ends up almost as thick as the original wall and can be bored just like the other cylinders.
 
Sleeving a block runs between 100 and 200 a hole in my neck of the woods.
It is a good solid repair, but heat transfer will be different.
Save this type of repair to resto, hard to find stuff, not blocks that are still in the junk yard.

The last 360 mag I bought off a member here.
$200 Heads cracked
It had good solid bores only needing honed, I installed STD KB 107 pistons, did a quick clean of the crank .010 rod main, and had balanced.
Made a sweet cheap reliable short block.
 
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