There is nothing wrong with poly bushings on the UCA's. And for that matter, there's nothing wrong with using poly bushings for the LCA's either, as long as you make the appropriate modifications and make sure everything fits properly on installation. That last bit is not trivial, because the poly LCA bushings use old bushing shells you must confirm the proper fit. They are not perfect and there are now better options, but installed properly they work fine. I run both poly upper and lower control arm bushings and have for tens of thousands of miles on the street, potholes and inclement weather and all.
There is no benefit to a more complex shaped UCA if you're not the one designing it. The shape of the stock stamped UCA's on these cars does limit rim width and backspacing. I ran stock UCA's on my Duster with offset bushings until I bought my new rims and tires, when I found that an 18x9" rim with 6.1" of backspace would not clear the stock UCA's at steering lock and with the suspension at full travel . Not a problem if you're running narrower rims and tires because you don't need that kind of backspacing or width, but the stock UCA's absolutely limit what is possible on these cars before the frame and fenders do. So, yes, there can be problems with clearance when using the stock arms if your plan is to run anything other than a stock suspension and wheel configuration.
Also, remember that when the UCA's for these cars were designed they were intended for use with bias ply tires, which are not capable of transferring the suspension loads that radial tires can in general, and certainly aren't capable of transferring the same loads as modern tires and compounds can. Unless you're running bias ply's, you're outside the original design parameters. Same goes for upgrading torsion bars, brakes, etc. The OEM parts of the 70's where not intended to see the same loads as a car modified with the aftermarket parts of today, their design parameters were completely different. If I buy a set of tubular UCA's, they should have been designed with all of those considerations in mind.
As far as strength goes, I'm not going to argue with you. I've done the engineering before. Really, it comes down to how strong a particular control arm was designed to be, tubular vs stamped has nothing to do with it. Tubular arms are used in everything from street cars to trophy trucks, you can design them for anything from tractor-trailers to yugo's. Their strength depends entirely on the application and construction. The stock arms were designed to handle a set of bias ply tires and 10" drum brakes, you can't change that. Yes, you can absolutely design stamped arms to handle a lot more than that, but the factory control arms you're talking about were not. So I have no idea why you would think that OEM stamped arms designed for 1970's performance levels and mass production would be stronger than aftermarket tubular UCA's intended for modified cars and greatly improved performance. If you really want to find out if the OEM stamped arm is stronger than a particular aftermarket tubular UCA (because they're all a little different), you'll have to break out a stress/strain gauge and do some destructive testing, because that's truly the only way to know. Even the calculations and models aren't as good as that.