magnum manifolds in a early a

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vitamindart

vitamindart

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ok this is for all you guys running the Dakota/ram manifolds in your early a.
what did you do to get them to fit? I can get the passenger one in no problem the drivers hits the column coupler and the gearbox when I pulled the column out to get a better look. my car is a 66 valiant with a 318 magnum / 904 running the stock V8 mounts. I have a set of the stock 273 manifolds but would like to run the magnums.
any advise / help is greatly appreciated.
 
I am not sure on the magnum manifolds, but it sounds like you need to change the rectangle steering coupler to a round Borgeson joint. I have 340 hi-flows on my early A and had the same problem.

http://www.borgeson.com/
 
I bought a new set but they were wrong so a used set is in there. every time I order a replacement they send the newer style ones.
 
I ended up getting a buddy of mine to machine about thirty thousandths off of the intake side of both manifolds to help with clearance. I also did a bit of grinding on the sides and bottom of both manifolds but really only took off the casting marks. Then changed the rag joint to a racing one from Automotive Racing Technologies(ART).I am also running the engine conversion mounts from Schumacher which puts the 360 magnum under the hood nicely. I have been driving the car for a few months now and the only complaint is when I put the car in reverse the exhaust manifold hits the steering gear box on the top. I'm hoping this weekend I will get a chance to put the Schumacher urethane mounts in so that will stop. I will try to get pictures tomorrow.
 
If it's power steering they won't fit.
 
Krazymofugger said:
I ended up getting a buddy of mine to machine about thirty thousandths off of the intake side of both manifolds to help with clearance. I also did a bit of grinding on the sides and bottom of both manifolds but really only took off the casting marks. Then changed the rag joint to a racing one from Automotive Racing Technologies(ART).I am also running the engine conversion mounts from Schumacher which puts the 360 magnum under the hood nicely. I have been driving the car for a few months now and the only complaint is when I put the car in reverse the exhaust manifold hits the steering gear box on the top. I'm hoping this weekend I will get a chance to put the Schumacher urethane mounts in so that will stop. I will try to get pictures tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Speaking of grinding on the manifolds, I read "somewhere" that the clearance was helped by machining the flange at an angle, taking a bit more off the top, thus raising the outboard side of the manifold. I don't remember if they said how much to take off, but it's a geometry problem. How much do you have to change the angle of the manifold flange to raise the outside the desired amount?

If you solve the problem, kindly pass it on!!

BC
 
Krazymofugger said:
....changed the rag joint to a racing one from Automotive Racing Technologies(ART). I'm hoping this weekend I will get a chance to put the Schumacher urethane mounts in so that will stop. I will try to get pictures tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Google search found APPLIED Racing Technologies U-joints

http://www.appliedracing.com/steering-components/3-4-bore-3-4-x-30-spline-u-joint.html

From the picture, they look a little slimmer than the Borgeson ones, and they're less expensive.

Krazy, you know pictures are always good!

BC
 
with a rigid mounted u joint you may run into problems. the whole purpose of the Chrysler joint was so that there was some slip to allow for movement between the body in cross member in steering box. if you mount rigid you may wind up damaging steering column bearings . I know this has been covered in previous post you may want to do a search
 
Back when a guy ( Lars? ) posted some info about putting these later manifolds in early As he made it seem soooo simple. Today we know ( learned the hard way ) that isn't the true in every case even though it could have been simple for his application.
Power steering gear box is only one of the conflicts.
Those who have successfully installed these manifolds discovered they heat the firewall to the point of making the carpet and/or insulation smell bad.
i still have the info from those webpages here somewhere but I no longer propagate it.
 
That's a comment I hadn't heard 'til just now. How close to the firewall are the manifolds? There's the possibility of more insulation under the carpet. Anyone have an idea how well these manifolds flow. In other words, is the payoff worth the hassle?

BC
 
does anyone make a urethane replacement for the early A motor mounts?
I am thinking that is part of my problem. the old mounts are a little soft.

my only concern with angled milling of the manifolds would be the long bolts going threw them. you would almost have to slot the holes in the manifold.
 
64ragtop said:
That's a comment I hadn't heard 'til just now. How close to the firewall are the manifolds? There's the possibility of more insulation under the carpet. Anyone have an idea how well these manifolds flow. In other words, is the payoff worth the hassle?

BC
Click to expand...

I'm fairly sure anything would be better than the OEM early a-body LA manifolds. The nearly 90 degree turn in the left one has to restrict flow.
If you're going to do other upgrades on the intake side you'll have to do something different at exhaust side to maxumize benefit and justify cost.
Headers have always been the answer but there is no cake walk in those either.
Good luck
 
Woops it is Applied Racing Technologies. There shop is in Clearwater and I picked the joint up a while back for the swap. I thought there prices were good and the quality of the parts I have gotten from them have been quite good. I never had a problem with the fire wall getting hot and I have driven a few long distances(St Pete to Orlando) in the car sense the swap. The Schumacher mounts might bring the engine forward a smidge but the trans mount was stock so I don't think so. I get out of work when it's dark so I will try to take some pictures in the morning and post them. I was going to post some after I put the urethane mounts in but I can do a before and after I suppose.
 
The magnum 360 is in the 64 valiant wagon with manual steering. I was also able to find a 904 pushbutton trans to keep the car kinda stock. At least until you open the hood lol.
 
Here are a few pictures as promised.
 

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Do you have the part number of that steering coupler??
I am going to re attempt installing that drivers side manifold
While the column is still out.
 
Ok, a little grinding and a shim under the drivers mount and they are in!!
I will be pulling the drivers mount and possibly making a solid replacement for it.
Unless I find a good poly alternative. Started working on my y pipe today as well
Running some 2.25 mandrel bends to a flow master scavenger y with a 3" outlet
I figure one 3" pipe should be plenty for my little 318. It worked nicely on my 360
Dakota and that had a crummy stock y with a converter.
 
shim the hell out of the driver's side mount, grind the manifold a little. Did the first, haven't done the second.
 
RedFish said:
.
Those who have successfully installed these manifolds discovered they heat the firewall to the point of making the carpet and/or insulation smell bad.
i still have the info from those webpages here somewhere but I no longer propagate it.
Click to expand...

Holy **** yes it does. I even have some b quiet doubled up there and I still get some pretty bad heat. It doesn't change the smell any, but damn it gets hot.
 
Exactly how close to the firewall are the manifolds? Seems like a fairly minor problem, unless I am overlooking something. What is the limitation to the thickness of added layers of insulation under the carpet. If there's not enough room between the manifolds and firewall, why not add layers of thermal insulation and sheet metal inside the passenger compartment. How big a problem is losing 3/4 to 1" of footroom??
Then there's always MR. B.F.H.!!!

BC
 
I don't think that they are very close at all.
 

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