Main & Rod bearings... In frame? What else?

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bighammer

bighammer

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My dart engine is tired. I just found out it has LOW oil pressure at all rpm's. I am considering the magnum 360 swap, but just as a comparison as to how much I will need to be spending, I'm going to price out a rod and main bearing job with the local mechanic.

Does the engine need to be pulled to do mains and rod bearings? Or can it be done in the car?

The car is a 1970 dart with factory 318... No smoke, just a top end rattle, and now a subtle low end knock / rattle. No leaks, runs well.

Also, what else should I have done at this time? Suggestions?

Thanks

PS the "search" button isn't working at the moment so I can't do a search... May be just my computer.
 
Did the Magnum swap,myself.Not hard,but time consuming.If on a budget,and paying a hourly rate to do it,I would suggest a known good running 318,or a new long/ short block.Check out www.Magnumswap.com. Known as LXguy here,a very good site about all Magnum 360 swap info.
 
Abodybomber said:
Did the Magnum swap,myself.Not hard,but time consuming.If on a budget,and paying a hourly rate to do it,I would suggest a known good running 318,or a new long/ short block.Check out www.Magnumswap.com. Known as LXguy here,a very good site about all Magnum 360 swap info.
Click to expand...
better off finding a good runner, then swap it out.even ifit still runs you will be opening a can of worms.318 magnums are pretty common here bet they are theretoo.read cheaper. and they run good.
 
Bottom end knock, the motor needs to come out, more damage than a simple bearing replacement.
Find a cheap good running replacement if you are on a tight budget.
 
Yes, the "magnumswap.com" is an awesome help. I've read thru it completely. I was only considering keeping my 318 cuz it is numbers matching.
 
easiest thing to do is swap in another 318. If you go with a mid-late 80s (roller cam) make sure you drill and tap the smog ports in the heads or you will have 8 exhaust leaks! (ask me how I know... LOL)

you can keep your original 318 in the corner of the garage if you ware worried about #s matching...

to answer your original question, you CAN replace mains and rods without pulling the engine (as long as you can get the oil pan off) but, just because you CAN do something, does not make it a good idea! It is a crap shoot as to how much time that will buy you before something else lets go and leaves you sitting. With older cars, if you don't fix it right, it will keep breaking and not be reliable and you will lose faith in your car and be afraid to drive it anywhere....
 
I would NOT do this. It can be done, you can replace a crank in the car.

The thing is, if an engine is in such bad shape that you think the rods and mains are both worn, it needs OTHER THINGS, or else your "repair" will be really short lived.

It might also be that the low oil pressure is not being caused by bearing wear.
 
whats it worth to keep it running an matching numbers??? top end rattle an low end knock an low oil,..its time to re build or re-power,..both opens there own can of worms,...if you can find a cheap running motor used that would be cheapest....
 
Teh cheapest would be locate another LA 318 and replace what you have. That will just be labor, faskets, and "incedentals". Once you start changing things, more money is needed. Not tons more, but more.
 
...all good answers, thank you all. It's great to hear lots of input. Not sure yet what I will opt for, but I now doubt I will do just bearings. Prolly a little too risky. Likely will be getting an engine swap, Magnum or LA, TBD.

Thanks again

Mark
 
I changed all the rod bearings and the mains expect for the thrust bearing. Halfway through the job I told myself never again, lol Took longer then I thought--what a pain loosing those main caps while laying under the car...never again!
 
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