Making a car difficult to steal

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I would sleep pretty well in a rough area with just a kill switch. The whole idea behind people using tow trucks to take cars is exaggerated big time. Most car thefts are a result of keys left in cars or on the rare occasion a hot wire. I'm not saying that card aren't stolen with two trucks. I just don't believe it happens enough to be a big issue. Maybe an alarm system to catch all the coat hanger guys.
 
DionR said:
................. I've decided that I am going to move the battery to the trunk ...................This doesn't completely remove power from under the hood,..................
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If you "did it right" it would!!!!!!

Check out I believe Moroso is using an improved 4 terminal disconnect switch that is with improved ratings

If you "let's say" build an external "push off" switch actuator plunger for your switch, you could use a sliding sleeve arrangement. In other words, the plunger knob you see on the bumper would push inside a sleeve in the trunk, and push the switch OFF. IF a thief PULLS the knob back out, that's all that will happen......the knob will pull out a short distance. Of course to turn the system on, you'd have to open the trunk.

The thing is, there's just LOADS of crap you can do........I've going to run late "Bullitt" wheels, and I'm seriously thinking of a plastic coated chain with a big lock around one rear wheel. But whatever you do, a tow truck or a roll-back can't be beat
 
Maybe someone can tell me this wrong, but I spliced a distributor wire and ran it to a switch under my seat. Even if I tell someone where it is, they take a while to find it. My only reluctance is when I think about reaching under the seat while the car is running.
 
doogievlg said:
I would sleep pretty well in a rough area with just a kill switch. The whole idea behind people using tow trucks to take cars is exaggerated big time. Most car thefts are a result of keys left in cars or on the rare occasion a hot wire. I'm not saying that card aren't stolen with two trucks. I just don't believe it happens enough to be a big issue. Maybe an alarm system to catch all the coat hanger guys.
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This whole thread was started because a local guy (to me) was followed home and his Demon stolen. Don't think the car was locked, but almost certain they hotwired it. After what I learned here, I can see multiple ways to do that, and how easy it would be to steal an A-Body, so I started asking questions.
 
67Dart273 said:
If you "did it right" it would!!!!!!
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So is my wiring diagram "did it right"?

67Dart273 said:
Check out I believe Moroso is using an improved 4 terminal disconnect switch that is with improved ratings
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I would prefer to avoid a disconnect if possible. Really would prefer to be able to just get in the car and start it with a minimal amount of fiddling around. Really don't want to go into the trunk. Disconnect would be more for additional safety when in storage or something, not for around town, if at all.
 
I don't even know what that diagram is supposed to be doing. Why do you need or want a second solenoid "What does it do?" Why do you need or want two large gauge wires going from front to rear?
 
In addition to proper wiring and alarm install there are other things to look into as well. You will never completely stop a thief that wants your ride, so slow them down and make it a pain in the butt to steal it. They will then move on to an easier target. For starters Look into a battery relocation kit for the trunk and a hidden disconnect. A separate backup battery hidden for the alarm system is a good option. There are many things to add such as column locks, pedal locks, steering wheel locks, you can use a large master pad lock on a B&M shifter so it won't leave park for example... Also wheel locks work well and there are police issue boots to make it un-movable. Theres Locking car-covers and locking hood pins. There are many other options available as well as custom DIY stuff such as baby monitors or switch wired thru old am radio etc...external surveillance systems work as well. We also have enough neighbors that work different shifts that Someone is always outside and watching. Especially nosey retired neighbors with nothing better to do, lol! Yes it's not full proof, The object is to slow them down enough they will move on to someone else's car as yours is too much trouble. They want to be in and gone in under 1 minute.......
When traveling keep doors locked and a large wrench or weapon of choice near by. No one will bother you. Had a guy run up to my drivers door years ago and tried to open it. I pointed my legal concealed carry weapon at him and he went away.

In addition to multiple security measures, I sleep right on the other side of the window with a rifle waiting as I don't sleep that well at night anyway. I pity any fool that tries. Lol!
 
67Dart273 said:
I don't even know what that diagram is supposed to be doing. Why do you need or want a second solenoid "What does it do?" Why do you need or want two large gauge wires going from front to rear?
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The 8ga wire carries the load while the car is running and is connected direct to the alternator through the existing wiring beyond the amp gauge. The solenoid in the trunk is used to send power through the other large wire (1/0ga) only when the starter circuit is energized to power the solenoid. By running a jumper to the starter mounted solenoid, I avoid having to put in a different starter.

By running the 8ga wire to the amp gauge, there is no battery juice under the hood other than the alternator stud. And the only way to engage the starter is to power the solenoid in the trunk, so there is no way to jumper the starter.

And by introducing a security interlock, there is no easy way to power that solenoid without the proper switch being set.

So, in theory, there is no power available under the hood that could be used to turn the motor over, even if the ignition circuit was jumpered from the alternator stud (the only point of power left).

Does that make sense, or help?
 
One of my concerns is making sure why wire sizes are large enough. That is part of what I was hoping to get input on for the wiring diagram I posted.
 
If you have the coin, installing devices known as bollards will deter the majority of thieves, pro or not. You can get in many configurations - I would think the ideal would be ones tall enough to make it physically impossible to get your car through the opening with a tow hook.

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451Cuda said:
If you have the coin, installing devices known as bollards will deter the majority of thieves, pro or not. You can get in many configurations - I would think the ideal would be ones tall enough to make it physically impossible to get your car through the opening with a tow hook.

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That's cool!

Unfortunately, I'd like something that works around town, too.
 
Of course they can power the starter. They are known as "jumper cables." Every good (pro) thief has a pair. How long did that take?

What is the circuit titled "security interlock" and how is it powered?" The thing is, if you can keep them from jumpering power to ignition, fuel pump, etc, it won't run. The only thing they can do is tow it or haul it, whether the starter cranks or not. What if it's a stick car? They can push start it So you need to get power OUT of the hood area.

My car, EG is EFI and uses an electric pump, so there's several options there. You hide the power to the fuel pump and the EFI. They could spend hours trying to chase that down.

But if they have time, and the isolation, they could back up there with a tow truck and be off

Here's what I'm planning.............some sort of pre paid cell based GSM / cellular device. Even if it's not an active ALARM, it will allow TRACKING. Any law enforcement can silently call the thing through the phone co. if necessary and have it tracked as long as it's not out of cell range and as long as it's before the battery in the car is cut, allowing the cell battery to go dead. With modern devices this might be a couple of days time, anyway. I realize, that "in the wilds of Montana," etc, there are places that don't have cell coverage.
 
I have toggle switches for everything and also have a cover over then that I padlock and I have two keys one that u see and the other is under the seat I have a battery kill switch in the back and one in the driver compartment and I also have a coil kill switch under the dash

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67Dart273 said:
Of course they can power the starter. They are known as "jumper cables." Every good (pro) thief has a pair. How long did that take?
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But the only place they could jump it from on the car would be the alternator post since the battery is locked in the trunk, and the only thing they would power is a fire because there is no way they will pull enough juice on that circuit to turn the starter over.

67Dart273 said:
What is the circuit titled "security interlock" and how is it powered?"
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That is laid out in the top right corner of the diagram.

It is a hidden switch that doesn't allow power to the starter circuit if the switch isn't engaged. It wouldn't be any different than a standard kill switch in the starter circuit other than this circuit powers the solenoid in the trunk instead of the relay that would normally be under the hood.

67Dart273 said:
The thing is, if you can keep them from jumpering power to ignition, fuel pump, etc, it won't run. The only thing they can do is tow it or haul it, whether the starter cranks or not. What if it's a stick car? They can push start it So you need to get power OUT of the hood area.
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That is exactly what I am trying to do, get the power out from under the hood, but don't see any way to cut the power at the alternator stud without some kind of a constant duty solenoid. This at least gets the battery and starter power out of the engine compartment and would hopefully leave someone a little baffled for a bit. The car is a stick and they could push start it, but I suspect that would make it less likely they would keep at it. I don't see them bringing a battery with them, but it is always an option. They pull another car along side, but that isn't very sneaky.
 
DionR said:
They pull another car along side, but that isn't very sneaky.
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You are both way overthinking this, and way underthinking this. Ever watch in a big parking lot when a car alarm goes off? Absolutely NOTHING happens. Nobody looks!!!! Nobody investigates!!! Everybody just assumes it's an accidental alarm trip!!!!

There was a case documented here (if the facts are correct) where some guys race car (and trailer I think?) was stolen out of his carport, AND THE THIEVES MOVED one of his other rigs to get it out. This was right next door to his house as he was asleep. Thieves don't have to be "sneaky."

They pull up on a busy street, they look like mechanics or repo guys. Unless you the owner, catch 'em in the act, or have it alarmed.
 
After reading thru this thread, I learned a lot of good ideas, but the best idea that works for me is this: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FLOWAU/ref=asc_df_B008FLOWAU3088243?smid=A1AX3OB6FJWQVB&tag=pgmp-397-100-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B008FLOWAU"]Amazon.com : Sourcingbay Tracking Drive Vehicle Car Tracker Gps/gsm/gprs System : GPS & Navigation[/ame] thanks to whoever posted this.

Check out the reviews, they work like they're supposed to, and they are very inexpensive. (It's a tracker, let's you see via google maps exactly where your car is, but is not an anti theft device. You still need to do your best in that area, whatever works for you.)
 
I have a spare coil wire with no terminal at coil just a boot. Of course if they discover that a spark plug wire could suffice. I also unplug my yellow ignition wire at the starter relay and rest it next to the terminal, so it looks connected.
 
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