Making brake lines

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SSG_Karg

SSG_Karg

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I’m doing a brake line repair right now on my truck, and it got me thinking about if there is a better way to do it.

Post up any tips, tricks, or advice on making your own brake lines. Specifically getting a good double flare using a flaring tool. Show your related tools and tips on using them.
There’s a ton of youtube videos on this topic but I was curious what the members here have to say on the subject.
I found this video helpful and he mentions a couple things I hadn’t heard before.
 
SSG_Karg said:
I’m doing a brake line repair right now on my truck, and it got me thinking about if there is a better way to do it.

Post up any tips, tricks, or advice on making your own brake lines. Specifically getting a good double flare using a flaring tool. Show your related tools and tips on using them.
There’s a ton of youtube videos on this topic but I was curious what the members here have to say on the subject.
I found this video helpful and he mentions a couple things I hadn’t heard before.
Click to expand...


I used this style. You just have to be meticulous about every step. If you half *** anything, you're asking for a leak.

One of the more important steps is to make sure the two bars are completely level when you tighten the wing nuts. Sometimes I had to tighten and loosen the wing nuts 7 or 8 times before I got the two bars level enough for my liking.
 
I have one like this and it works awesome. The downfall is it needs to be clamped in a vice to use.

K Tool International 70081​

If I had to buy it again I would get one that could be used on vehicle like this one.

VEVOR Hydraulic Flaring Tool Kit, 45° Double Flaring Tool​

Links wont work, throw that in search on amazon.
 
I have this one from Eastwood, although I’m sure it’s probably the same one as other brands that look the same

Eastwood Professional Brake Line and Tubing Flaring Tool

I’ve had great luck with it, flaring everything from 3/16” to 3/8” line in plain steel and stainless.

A little prep goes a long way, careful deburring makes a big difference in the finished product.
 
Trying to do fuel lines with NICOP. Absolute pain in the arse. Filed flat before flaring, give it a dbl flare and leaks fuel at every goddamned fitting....
Guess I could put "following" lol
 
If you decide to bend your own brake lines…

IMG_4464.jpeg
 
I use the one from Eastwood in Post #9 but I ended up buying one from vevor for less than half the price.. they're all from China... Also getting the roller for straightening the line because it usually comes in coils and another essential part is the chamfer tool that chamfers the inside and outside of the end of the tube before you put it in the double flare tool...
I usually just get a coil of the 4-life brand nickel copper 3/16 tubing on Amazon...
It usually comes with all the fittings you need as well. I've done and tired trucks and cars and short order... Not looking totally awesome and working perfect. Of course a little tube cutter is nice as well...
I just use like a spray can for a WD-40 can or something and coil the nickel copper tubing around it to make a little loose at the master cylinder....
IMG_20210517_095735.jpg


PXL_20211115_231804983.jpg
 
This is the one I have:

71FrOxWv16L._AC_SL1500_.jpg



It does more than just double flares, though. It also does bubble flares and quick-release/push-lock fuel/oil/transmission lines.




Also, one of these is the absolute bomb for straightening brake lines, but you can build your own if you're clever using little more than scrap steel and sliding-glass door wheels:

brakequip---new-tube-straighte_10909076.jpg
 
NoCar340 said:
This is the one I have:

View attachment 1716088313


It does more than just double flares, though. It also does bubble flares and quick-release/push-lock fuel/oil/transmission lines.




Also, one of these is the absolute bomb for straightening brake lines, but you can build your own if you're clever using little more than scrap steel and sliding-glass door wheels:

View attachment 1716088314
Click to expand...

That looks very nice. I suppose it’s like anything else- the tools make all the difference.
 
I use one of the el-cheapo tools from Harbor Freight. It has been my experience that the best way to get a good flare is to clamp the bar in a vise after inserting the tube. What I mean is, place it in the vise so the two halves are being squeezed together, increasing the clamping force to prevent the tube from pushing out. Then insert the die and begin tightening. I usually have to tighten and back off several times to keep the die square to the bars.
I’ve been using the NiCopp tubing and so far I’m in love with it. Easier to flair and easier to install. If making a tight radius a bending tool is a must though, as it tends to kink pretty easily.
DCC580C1-8706-431D-947C-A46D4322C8E7.jpeg
 
SSG_Karg said:
I use one of the el-cheapo tools from Harbor Freight. It has been my experience that the best way to get a good flare is to clamp the bar in a vise after inserting the tube. What I mean is, place it in the vise so the two halves are being squeezed together, increasing the clamping force to prevent the tube from pushing out. Then insert the die and begin tightening. I usually have to tighten and back off several times to keep the die square to the bars.
I’ve been using the NiCopp tubing and so far I’m in love with it. Easier to flair and easier to install. If making a tight radius a bending tool is a must though, as it tends to kink pretty easily.
View attachment 1716088564
Click to expand...
With the correct tool all of that jackwheelary go's out the window and your doing perfect double flares in seconds...
 
SSG_Karg said:
I use one of the el-cheapo tools from Harbor Freight. It has been my experience that the best way to get a good flare is to clamp the bar in a vise after inserting the tube. What I mean is, place it in the vise so the two halves are being squeezed together, increasing the clamping force to prevent the tube from pushing out. Then insert the die and begin tightening. I usually have to tighten and back off several times to keep the die square to the bars.
I’ve been using the NiCopp tubing and so far I’m in love with it. Easier to flair and easier to install. If making a tight radius a bending tool is a must though, as it tends to kink pretty easily.
View attachment 1716088564
Click to expand...

Yeah, that’s exactly why I bought the Eastwood flaring tool. Insert die, insert tube, clamp, pull on handle. Change die, pull on handle, done. No fiddling with any of that stuff.

The Eastwood tool is more than worth it if you’re doing more than a handful of flares. It’s not quite what I would consider a professional level tool, the Mastercool one is more like a professional tool. But the Eastwood tool will totally handle doing brake or fuel lines for an entire car on multiple occasions with no issues. I’ve done a ton of lines with it and it’s held up great.

I have a couple of the clamp style tools, from HF all the way up to vintage Snap On. They’re all a pain in the ***, and even the snap on version I have sits in the drawer. They work, sure, but if you’re doing more than a flare or two it’s just not worth the frustration.
 
make sure you do the correct flare for the seats
Mine is all bubble flare mine is australian your may differ
get the pipe nuts with No lead
remember that the pipe nuts for the master cylinder are different sizes

Dave
 
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