MAN!!! I need ta' restock the lathe room, LOL

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I just picked up an X/Y axis mill table for my lathe for six dollars. Thank you, thrift store.

My new job has two lathes. The small one is six feet long. The big one has a 36" diameter chuck. I think I could spin a car with it if I tried.
 
Aren't you the guy who quit the resto shop? What are you doing now? Hope things goin' OK

Went out to the steel yard today and picked up a block of 3 x 3 x 3" aluminum to make a new spacer for the new BXA post for the lathe. Long story short, it has an older "production crossslide" and modding the original post would be a shame.
 
I got my lathe about 7 years ago, new.
It's a HAFCO Metalmaster AL300.
I completely stipped it down when I got it, and replaced all the chinaman bearings for Timkens and F.A.G.'s.
I found broken drill bits in the saddle box, and casting sand, wood chips, and machining swarf......all cleaned out, and set up again...took me about 3 months to get it up and running again.
I use it quite a lot.
I made a Tool Post grinder for it too.
Made some stainless steel exhaust flanges, and all sorts of tools and car parts.
I'd be lost without it.
 

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I got my lathe about 7 years ago, new.
It's a HAFCO Metalmaster AL300.
I completely stipped it down when I got it, and replaced all the chinaman bearings for Timkens and F.A.G.'s.
I found broken drill bits in the saddle box, and casting sand, wood chips, and machining swarf......all cleaned out, and set up again...took me about 3 months to get it up and running again.
I use it quite a lot.
I made a Tool Post grinder for it too.
Made some stainless steel exhaust flanges, and all sorts of tools and car parts.
I'd be lost without it.
dam, I want one bad!
 
THAT beast is a vertical lathe, normally found in rail and ship yards. Stunning part is it has a single cutting plunger, most have 2......and, no head stock on that bad boy![/QUOTE]


When we designed the rebuild we left the ram on the left out because it would not fit under that section of roof with the cross-rail all the way up. All the parts for the second z axis are sitting on the top of the machine. Sometime in the future we want to design the second z axis for live tooling and either shorten its stroke or modify the roof so it will fit.

View attachment largeprop.jpg
 
Well it rained last night and this morning, so instead of working on the trailer project,

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=273175

I made a tool post mount for the 10" South Bend. I had some unknown piece of some unknown machine, that I'd gotten with "other stuff." No idea what it fit. Some sort of home made? Compound slide? post mount. "The stuff" below used to be all one piece

http://i61.tinypic.com/eqdzzq.jpg

So I rough sawed it to size on the bandsaw, and "threw" it into the drill-mill. Some time later, we wind up with this:

http://i57.tinypic.com/r23zgp.jpg

Fits the compound slot perfectly. That's not a gap on the right hand side, that's a shadow

http://i61.tinypic.com/11gu3o7.jpg

"Can't wait" LOL. This compound is actually off a 9" which works a bit better with one of these toolposts. This is an import "AXA" system that I got slightly used for around 80 bucks, including several tool holders, cut-off tool, boring bar holder, and knurling tool

http://i57.tinypic.com/4rakv6.jpg
 
So now that I can actually turn something, I "worked over" this piece. This is an attachment intended to beef and stabilize the cross slide some, and give you more tool mounting options. I bought this used, and whoever finished it, turned the bottom flat on a lathe.........only it "ain't" flat. It rocks on the cross slide.

So the plan is to turn a relieve here near the circular dovetail, then strap it down to the mill and make a light clean up cut to flatten the bottom

I can already tell that the relief cut helped, as it does not rock "so much." So that was part of the problem. I'll probably mount it to this unknown taper attachment crossslide, and use 2-3 bolts up through the bottom to clamp things together. It should be fairly rigid.

Not sure, but might have come from this outfit or similar:

http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/index.html

This one is intended for the SB but is quite different from this one here

http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/S-4382.html

It was a PITA to get it centered in this old chuck LOL



The crossslide for the unknown taper attachment. It will require a bit of work



You would not want much bigger work on this little 10" lathe



The relief done, and here you can see the tool marks where the previous owner turned the bottom. This would have been fine if his lathe was true, but "it wasn't."









And, bought some cheap Chineso DROs off th' bay. I think I paid under 80 bucks. The long one is not long enough for the entire bed, but I did not want to spend that much. I'll turn the cover hinge support (off the old 9") into a bed support for that DRO. I can move it if I need to reposition.

 
Nice work! it has been awhile since I've read something "milled" on a lathe no less for a SB model too!

Since the making, hows it work?

I myself, need to cough up a chunk of steel to make a "rocking" tool post for my Unimat.....I'd have a mini machine that would machine just about anything at that point......Specially the small stuff!
 
Some 5 years ago I bough the old lathe from FABO-member 'EDWIN'.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/BigBlockMopar/Lathe/2hwpmhf.jpg


Since it was transported in parts, upon arrival I decided to clean and paint it up nicely again.
Another project had been born.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/BigBlockMopar/Lathe/IMG_0374.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/BigBlockMopar/Lathe/IMG_0376.jpg


After a few painstaking days of degreasing and removing the old layers of paint on the hunks of steel it was ready for paint and reassemble the lathe again.

I used a nice vintage looking green metallic paint I had a few cans of left.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/BigBlockMopar/Lathe/IMG_0378.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/BigBlockMopar/Lathe/IMG_0377.jpg






IMG_0397.jpg



Found some wear and tear on the lathe which I managed to restore a bit again by adjusting a few items.
The bed however has some wear near the headstock so if I use the tailstock I need to shim it up some with some heavy stock paper. Which then makes it aligned enough again for what I'm doing with the lathe usually.
 
BBM,
That restored Lathe looks GREAT!

As for the wear in the bed, couldn't you take just the bed to a place to have it all "milled" to be the same level and restore the true-ness to the machine without the use of heavy stock paper? Might be worth it if nothing else, just to re-true the machine!
 
Powerwagon,
I thought about that, but the hassle of transporting the bed back and forth and finding a company locally that could do this was more trouble then I was willing to go through.
Also I didn't know about the wear until I started using the tailstock a few times. Also after I had just built-up the entire lathe I didn't feel like taking it all apart again.

67Dart,
It can just hold and spin a 11.75" discrotor, so I'd say it has a max. 12" swing.
There's a small part of the bed near the headstock that can be taken out, if perhaps a larger chuck is used or something.

I had also found the chuck couldn't grab and hold a workpiece true anymore so I fabbed up a lightweight Dremel grinding-tool and tediously trued up the chuck jaws with it. Seemed to work nicely and good fairly good results with it...

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6V4eq0vFqY"]Lathe headstock Truing - YouTube[/ame]




I've always wanted to have one, and before I got this lathe I had never owned or used one before, so I had to learn to use it starting from the very basics by doing stuff and do lots of reading up on lathe-use.

Now a few years later I built a few fun items with it, like a blower-pully, a cambearing tool and a rear-axle housing narrowing jig for instance.
Some more info and pics are on my site;
http://www.bigblockmopar.nl/2013/04/blower-pulley-spacer-machining/
http://www.bigblockmopar.nl/2012/01/8-34-rear-axle-narrowing/


 
BBM,
As long as you know to keep an eye on the wear that if it gets greater over the time you have it and keep aware of it as I have found in and out of machine shops over the years thats something that really hinders work at times specially with aging machines!

But, it is a tedious PITA to do as your right, you have to take the whole machine apart, and depending the shop to do the work to the bed-way, they might have you bring in the cross slide to the tool post table too for machining that as well to fit whatever they do to the bed-way as well as the tailstock mount. So, I can see your wanting not to go that route....
 
Now that I've sold a "couple things" I'm trying to get the South Bend 10" in shape as I like. Tool post, etc. It came with a broken compound rest T slot, and I'm using the 9" compound off the parts lathe. But the broken one had the "big dial" vernier collar, and I wanted that on the operational compound. For that you need a "pin spanner." They are few, far between and usually expensive.

So I bought two 1 1/2" flat washers for a grand total of 2.50 (one for "oops") and I didn't need it.

2afygpx.jpg


Turned it out to the dia of the collar on the compound

30da1ed.jpg


Then cleaned up a scrap of rod, slotted the end and silver brazed to 1/4 of the washer

Drilled one end with the mill for a pin, and brazed that in, and filed it "short"

30cpsad.jpg


Not the prettiest job but it's functional..........the goal

sx2o1t.jpg
 
As long as it works, right? It shouldn't matter what or how it looks as long as it performs!

NICE work!
 
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