I imagine the "requirement" for a torsion bar removal tool started from the photo in the FSM. I wonder if even dealers buy the special tools shown there, since most are easily improvised. The torsion bar pops out easily when you remove the LCA. Remove the spring clip from the rear torsion bar anchor first. Unload the torsion bar fully (car supported on frame). Loosen the LCA bolt. You could hit the LCA rear-ward with a hammer as one post says. I just slip a pry bar between the LCA and K-frame. It should slide back easy. Only grease is holding the torsion bar in the hex socket (unless severe rust), so a little wiggling and it slides out. I also agree with wire-brushing all rust and repainting. I can't believe how ugly some under-car photos are on FABO with new parts installed on rusty frames. Take time to do it right.
As I mentioned, you can save a lot of money by "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Before dis-assembly, you can check your tie rods by trying to turn the wheel by hand while in the air (shake back and forth). If you see or feel any motion (without spinning the gear box), try to identify the loose part. Many times the tie rods are tight and may only need a re-grease and new boots (use polyurethane). It isn't hard to change any of the steering joints later after the suspension is re-assembled, so don't feel "I must do it now".
I don't imagine the upper ball joints experience much force, so if they were regularly greased, they may be fine. If so, leave them in and paint around them, but do install a new poly boot.
You almost always need new rubber bushings. The good part is they are cheap. LCA bushings are the most at ~$12 each. However, you probably must pay to have them pressed. Also, if you live in the salty north, you might spend time with a hacksaw blade wrapped in a rag to get the UCA cam bolts out, since they often rust into the bushings. New ones are cheap ($10?). Grease the bolt shafts when you re-assemble so you never have to do that again.
Often the lower ball joints are worn. It is so much trouble to remove them, you might as well replace them anyway. If you have 10" drum brakes like me, bad luck since ~$60 ea, vs ~$30 for other Darts. I got some cheaper for the future by shopping around.
Re brands. RockAuto carries Mevotech, which is usually much less. Before others start ranting about "Chinese junk", they might ascertain that they aren't all made in the same factory and you just pay big bucks for the Moog brand.
Finally, be cautious following all the advice here. After these guys get you to switch to later disks and the 5x4.5 wheels, they will get you to change your rear-end to match (so you can carry one spare). Then they'll suggest you put in a 360, w/ new tranny and drive-shaft, plus headers. When you are done, you will have only used the shell of the car you started with, or have sold off another unfinished project which is how that often ends. You must decide your path. The as-built design was also fine, and drum brakes will stop a car fine.
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