Elmo65
Well-Known Member
What kind would you use? I thought maybe I might use brass. Would that be a good idea? This is for a slant six. The three that hold the two manifolds together. And maybe studs and nuts to hold the manifolds to the head.
Manifold bolts?
- Thread starter Elmo65
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I would use steel with antiseize on the three bolts. , brass is soft.
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340six
King Of Bling
Same here. And if ARP or someone else makes um new over 50 year old ones
I used stainless on mine.this just on the 3 that hold the manifolds to each other
Notice there are several grades there too. I believe #316 is the best. Definitely better than 18-8. I raided the mcmaster carr catalog to find those that I used
Notice there are several grades there too. I believe #316 is the best. Definitely better than 18-8. I raided the mcmaster carr catalog to find those that I used
I am not 100% on this. You may be thinking of the brass "nuts" that Chrysler used for the Slant.
The 2 end studs and the center. Not sure what years start or finish.
My 63 Valiant had them. Those 3 studs also use the round conical washers.
The 2 end studs and the center. Not sure what years start or finish.
My 63 Valiant had them. Those 3 studs also use the round conical washers.
It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head, intake-to-exhaust, and exhaust-to-headpipe junctions. Find hardware and mounting-technique info here and here.
Chrysler had it right. Why would you use anything else? The only "upgrade" I would suggest is the Remflex gasket kit and grade 8 hardware. I also use high temp red RTV on the bolt threads so I will at least have a fighting chance of getting them out next time.
Agreed
Elmo65
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your replies. I just hope I get the old one off without breaking them.
Likely not. Penetrating oil and heat.
I've had to send a few /6 manifolds off to the laser bolt extractor guy at the local diesel shop. No matter how hard I tried I drilled them off center and didn't want to be into the parent cast iron of the manifold. No matter what that bit will walk along the twist line left behind by a busted bolt. The only time "not" is if they break off "proud" where they can be dressed flat before the center punch
I have used a diamond bit on a dremel to start a centered depressed spot to center the drill bit,
and use a smallish bit for a true hole, and gnaw away at it with the diamond bit
also use a dremel cuttoff wheel to slit (2 opposite sides) the nuts before attempted removal.
the slicing heats the nut up often freeing it
and yes lots of pb blaster
I hate those studs! lol
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