Manual brake to Power brake conversion Help

[Purpdart]

I purchased a 7" power brake booster setup and was looking for tips on how to get proper mounting location as the old master holes aren't the same as the booster layout. This is going in my 67 Dart GT. Any Help?:burnout:

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

If you have all the booster mounting brakets it should mount to the original four master cylinder studs. I suspect you don't have the brackets. The push rod that mounts to your pedal is also different. A picture of what you have would help.

 

[BillGrissom]

Agreed. Where did you buy it and what was it listed for? In C-bodies, the booster mounts direct to the firewall, via a flat plate. I don't know about B & E bodies. A-bodies require stand-off brackets w/ lever to put the booster higher up to clear the valve cover (if a V-8 ). There are new after-market kits that have such brackets. You can find many photos here in a search.

 

[Purpdart]

Here are some photos of what I have.....

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

That looks like what you need. Why won't it work? There are two braces that normally go with that set up. One bolts to the booster/bracket and goes to the fenderwell and the second goes from the booster/bracket downward and bolts to the firewall. But what you have should bolt right up.

 

[RedFish]

It does look like it would bolt up. I've seen some aftermarket assemblies that wouldn't bolt up without using a torch to open the width of those oblong sloted holes.

 

[Mupoo]

That's like the one I put on my car (bracket that is) should bolt straight on. When I did mine I had to cut some of the thread off the Booster otherwise the lever action would have been hitting the fire wall. Once you work out how it goes together, do a dummy asembly & make sure you do/don't have to do the same

 

[Purpdart]

Thanx for all the help guys! I figured it out with your help and hit a snag with part quality. Guess I'm gonna have cut ant shim this one to work.

 

[BillGrissom]

Looks like you need to cut some off the threaded rod, as Mupoo did. Even then, you may have to mount the booster w/ nuts on both sides of each stud to position the booster in the right axial location. I did that in mounting a Breeze booster on Dart brackets and works fine. I recall also compressing the booster rod slightly, which is OK as long as you leave plenty of total stroke. It might have some dead zone at the start anyway. You could also do the "dual nut" thing at the firewall-bracket interface to move it even further out.

A bit of fussing you shouldn't have to do, but you can't beat the low price of that "GM booster w/ Mopar brackets" ebay offering. I just wish they used a lighter 2-bolt aluminum MC. Actually, it was cheaper my route (plus alum MC), but one must be a junkyard picker for that.

 

[az426hemi]

I was looking at this same type of setup for my 74 Duster disc brake car, but the listings stop at 70. Should this one work for my car or did they change something after 70?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[BillGrissom]

Should fit fine on 1974 since I used brackets from a 74 Dart slant on my 65 Dart 273. Strange listing, since I don't recall anything in the brakes changing in 1970. A few years earlier, they changed to dual reservoirs, but that is advised for everybody.

 

[ClarkDart70]

How did this install end up? I think I just bought the same conversion. Did you have to change your prop valve?

 

[Purpdart]

Actually it worked out great, found out from supplier that the booster he sent me had a rod that was too long. Other than that, works great and didn't have to change the proportioning valve.

:burnout:

 

[ClarkDart70]

I'm installing today and cannot get any fluid coming from the mc to the rear brake line. At full pedal depression I get a small spit of fluid. Any ideas????

 

[RedFish]

There were some changes. Early on the booster was a longer and smaller diameter dual diaphram unit. The master cylinder for drum and disc brakes looked identical at first glance but the disc brake unit had a deeper resivoir cavity.
I guess the reproductions are built to look like the correct OEM.