master cylinder pushrod interchange

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rmchrgr

rmchrgr

Skate And Destroy
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My car is originally power brake-equipped. I plan to convert to a lightweight master cylinder system. Do I need a manual brake pushrod?

Do 4-speed and automatic pushrods interchange?

I know the MP pushrod kit is available, but I'd rather have the correct original part.

Thanks,

Greg
 
(1.) Yes.

(2.) Yes.

(3.) Should still be available from your local dealership. Believe it or not, they are included with rebuilt single master cylinders at the parts stores. May want to try there as well.
 
they're all the same...I used the same pushrod with drum brakes and an automatic, 73+ disk brakes and an automatic, and then 73+ Disk brakes and a 4-speed.

If you need one, I have one in my garage that I can part with.
 
gold.

You went from a power 4 wheel drum to a 2 wheel disc/2 drum set up?
 
Cool, I love it when an old thread gets resurrected.

Not that this has anything to do with what Rumble was asking Goldduster318 about but I now have a manual brake pushrod! I also just got an aluminum master cylinder with an AR Engineering adapter. Got the MC and adapter from Eberg in a kit and the pushrod from Ebay seller Trans-AM AAR-T/A. I plan to install it all soon.

I'll try to remeber to take a picture of the two pushrods when I do the MC conversion from power to manual to illustrate any differences.

I'm converting to the aluminum master obviously to save weight but also since that giant-*** booster is in the way of pretty much everything on the driver's side. It will definitely clear a bunch of room for me when I R+R my power steering with a manual box. :-D
 
Yea, me too. I was serching till my eyes hurt!

My 4 wheel power drum set up is being sllllooowwwy upgraded to the now 11 inch rear drums and stock for '74 disc's. The M/C that is there now, I want to swap out for a late 70's (Doba) M/C. Which is 2 bolt and the current 4 bolt will be taken out. I'll need an adapter plate, but what about the pushrod?

Allready have the correct proportioning valve. (If truly needed.)

Hummmmmmm, best figure this out before I start tearing things apart! LOL
 
rmchrgr said:
Cool, I love it when an old thread gets resurrected.

Not that this has anything to do with what Rumble was asking Goldduster318 about but I now have a manual brake pushrod! I also just got an aluminum master cylinder with an AR Engineering adapter. Got the MC and adapter from Eberg in a kit and the pushrod from Ebay seller Trans-AM AAR-T/A. I plan to install it all soon.

I'll try to remeber to take a picture of the two pushrods when I do the MC conversion from power to manual to illustrate any differences.

I'm converting to the aluminum master obviously to save weight but also since that giant-*** booster is in the way of pretty much everything on the driver's side. It will definitely clear a bunch of room for me when I R+R my power steering with a manual box. :-D
Click to expand...

Which push rod do you plan to use? if you are going to run the adapter for the MC you will have to use an adjustable or longer push rod. If you use a stock push rod with the adapter, the pedal will be about an 1" lower
 
Blownfish said:
Which push rod do you plan to use? if you are going to run the adapter for the MC you will have to use an adjustable or longer push rod. If you use a stock push rod with the adapter, the pedal will be about an 1" lower
Click to expand...

Hmmmm.... I have one from a '70-'71 A-body. There's a recess on the back of the MC that fits inside the adapter and allows it to mount flush with the back of the adapter. This puts it in the correct position AFAIK. I did the same swap on my '65 Valiant using the stock single-pot drum brake pushrod and I didn't have any fitment issues. Maybe I'll have to measure where the pedal sits before I take the booster out and then re-check it when the new MC is in.

Honestly though, even if the pedal sits a little low, I don't care too much as long as it's firm.
 
Blownfish said:
Which push rod do you plan to use? if you are going to run the adapter for the MC you will have to use an adjustable or longer push rod. If you use a stock push rod with the adapter, the pedal will be about an 1" lower
Click to expand...

Ahhh, theres that lil'thing in the back of my head, about the pushrod. Can't I use the stock one? Perhaps a added peice ontot he rod?

I went to Mancini racing to veiw what they have. The adapter plate is said to bolt right to the fire wall and I couldn't figure out why not to the power booster. I'm not giving up power brakes. I'd rather go and get a vacuum pump with a large cam.

I just can't see going to manual brakes on a street car I drive alot.
 
Rumble,
have you considered Hydroboost systems? I am leaning that way because of the cam/DCR issue. I dont think there will be enough vac with my combo.
Andrew
 
Blue, I have no idea what your talking about, never heard of it. Whats a "DCR" issue?

From the questions I'm asking, I guess you can see the direction I'm going in...CHEAP! With as many OE parts as possible.

I went down to AutoZone to see if they had a OE rebuilt M/C for the car and they can't get it. Otherwise, I think I would have gone that route, but can't. (Darn!)
They can get 9 inch drums to a tune of about $100 each. OUCH!

SO, I'm looking at this adapter plate that mancini has to swap on a '79 M/C (2 bolt attachment) to the 4 bolt booster. I was informed that there would be a small difference and a low pedal, which is OK-ish. The fix I beileve is the adjustable pushrod at a silly price of $75 from mancini I think it was.
OR weld the rod longer. Hummmm.

In the mean time I did price out everything else and the cost so far is reasonable between pads, hose and rebuilt calipers. I still yet have to look into doing bushings for the upper A arms.

I was surprised to find out that a "NEW" M/C for a '79 doba/magnum etc...late B body, is a whooooping $35!
 
fish, if you have discs from a '74 did you try autozone for that booster? I got a stock booster with m/c for about $100 from advance auto...
C
 
Rumble, don't know if there's a Parts Authority out by you but they tend to stock some old Chrysler stuff. I got a lot of parts from them when I did all this same stuff to my Valiant. They had the 10.87 rotors, they had the larger ball joints, calipers, hoses, pads, basically everything. I think they had a cast iron disc brake MC for like $65. Look them up on the web, there might be an outlet out by you somewhere. I got all this stuff at their store in Flushing right next to Shea. I used to deal with a guy named Ray there. Good place, they hooked me up.

There's another guy in Whitestone too, White Point Auto Parts that I got some parts from too. Jim is the name I think.

Hope that helps.
 
rmchrgr said:
Hmmmm.... I have one from a '70-'71 A-body. There's a recess on the back of the MC that fits inside the adapter and allows it to mount flush with the back of the adapter. This puts it in the correct position AFAIK. I did the same swap on my '65 Valiant using the stock single-pot drum brake pushrod and I didn't have any fitment issues. Maybe I'll have to measure where the pedal sits before I take the booster out and then re-check it when the new MC is in.

Honestly though, even if the pedal sits a little low, I don't care too much as long as it's firm.
Click to expand...



rumblefish360 said:
SO, I'm looking at this adapter plate that mancini has to swap on a '79 M/C (2 bolt attachment) to the 4 bolt booster. I was informed that there would be a small difference and a low pedal, which is OK-ish. The fix I beileve is the adjustable pushrod at a silly price of $75 from mancini I think it was.
OR weld the rod longer. Hummmm.


I was surprised to find out that a "NEW" M/C for a '79 doba/magnum etc...late B body, is a whooooping $35!
Click to expand...

I used an 85 Dodge truck M/C on my 65 with the adapter and with a stock push rod the pedal was just below the gas pedal height.

The adjustable push rod I got was only $30 or $35 which is more than fair, I wouldn't give $75 for one though. I would just lengthen an original first.
 
clhyer said:
fish, if you have discs from a '74 did you try autozone for that booster? I got a stock booster with m/c for about $100 from advance auto...
C
Click to expand...

I did try AutoZone for a power M/C, no go. Booster ? Yes, they can get it. IIRC
I'll be trying Advanced tomorrow for a M/C

rmchrgr said:
Rumble, don't know if there's a Parts Authority out by you but they tend to stock some old Chrysler stuff. I got a lot of parts from them when I did all this same stuff to my Valiant. They had the 10.87 rotors, they had the larger ball joints, calipers, hoses, pads, basically everything. I think they had a cast iron disc brake MC for like $65. Look them up on the web, there might be an outlet out by you somewhere. I got all this stuff at their store in Flushing right next to Shea. I used to deal with a guy named Ray there. Good place, they hooked me up.

There's another guy in Whitestone too, White Point Auto Parts that I got some parts from too. Jim is the name I think.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

It might help later on if other places don't come through. No Parts Authority's by me. Not that I have noticed. Flushing / Whitestone isn't a bad drive ethier.

Blownfish said:
I used an 85 Dodge truck M/C on my 65 with the adapter and with a stock push rod the pedal was just below the gas pedal height.

The adjustable push rod I got was only $30 or $35 which is more than fair, I wouldn't give $75 for one though. I would just lengthen an original first.
Click to expand...

I think I could live with a shorter pedal, but would prefur to have it where it is. Re adjusting the brake light switch would be something I'd have to do with a shorter pedal? (Makes sense to me)

On that price for the adjustable pedal... YEA! expensive!!! WTH is that all about.

I'm not sure how to go about lengthening the pushrod or my welding skills while at it. It's been awhile since I cranked up the welder... that I never really got good at. LOL
 
When I swapped to manual disc. brakes on my 66 Dart,I got a dual master(73 Dart Swinger),rotors,ball joints(big)calipers,flex lines and pads from CarQuest.I used the single masters push rod and it works fine.:cheers:

trim 029.jpg
 
Manual disc's and power disc use different masters in there fluid capcity and shape on the M/C itself. I figure that is the only difference for OE units.

I hope Advanced has the M/C as so to make this easy. Thanks for the picture. I'll need that when it comes time to put on the upper A arms.

LATE EDIT

just found this ; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DHB-M80266/
 
As you can see in the pic,I kept the original brake lines.(after draining out old fluid)also in the rear.I was amazed with the condition of the original brake lines!
 
I'm hoping to keep the OE brake lines myself. I had to replace the long one from the porportioning valve to the rear and when I swapped in the 8-1/4 over the 7-1/4, I just simply purchased new ones to go on that. All are stainless steel.

Those are the drum or disc A arms?
 
rumblefish360 said:
I'm hoping to keep the OE brake lines myself. I had to replace the long one from the porportioning valve to the rear and when I swapped in the 8-1/4 over the 7-1/4, I just simply purchased new ones to go on that. All are stainless steel.

Those are the drum or disc A arms?
Click to expand...
They are the disc. UCA,s from my donor car,which was a 73 Dart Swinger 318/904,7 1/4 that I purchased for $500.Here,s a pic of it when I got it and after stripping..Was well worh the price cause I made money after getting the disc. setup off of it.

73 dart special 004.jpg


73 dart special 010.jpg


56.jpg
 
WOW! Gotcha moneys worth on that car!
 
fish, try this link:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Brake-Master-Cylinder-Cardone_5350522-P_230_R|GRPBRHYAMS_727903591___
C
 
I have changed two of my cars the 67 dart and 65 valiant from manual drums to manual disc/drum set up used the stock push rods on both if you convert to the two bolt you will need to use the longer rod the 1'' SHORTER you need to adjust stop lite switch
 
pettybludart said:
When I swapped to manual disc. brakes on my 66 Dart,I got a dual master(73 Dart Swinger),rotors,ball joints(big)calipers,flex lines and pads from CarQuest.I used the single masters push rod and it works fine.:cheers:
Click to expand...

The stock push rod will work fine with the older M/C, the issue is when you convert to the newer two bolt M/C the adapter moves the M/c out from the firewall about 3/8"- 1/2" and that causes the pedal to be about an 1" or more lower than it should be which interferes with the brake light switch and the amount of travel you have with the pedal.

rumblefish360 said:
I'm not sure how to go about lengthening the pushrod or my welding skills while at it. It's been awhile since I cranked up the welder... that I never really got good at. LOL
Click to expand...

The safest way would be to get two push rods and cut them down so you only have one weld but you can get the adjustable one for about $30-$35 from someone other than Mancini.


For those that are trying to keep their original brake lines, WHY?

Brake lines are cheap, $2-$5 each at O' Reilly's or Auto Zone. The original ones are 30+ years old and may look good but it is common for them to rust under the spring and fittings where you can't see it and then when you have a panic stop they will blow out and you end up with a wrecked car just to save a couple bucks for brake lines and a little time to fit them. This is not the place to take short cuts, I've had brakes line blow out before and it is not fun going through an intersection looking and hoping you don't get plowed or wondering if the guy in front of you is going to stop before you can get your car stopped.

I don't see the point in risking your pride and joy or someone Else's or worse like someone's life over a little thing like brake lines.

I was at a show last night where a beautiful Charger went through a fence and down a hill, I don't know if it was the brake lines or the throttle stuck they were telling us both stories but it still shows you what can happen.
 
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