Maximum valve length

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If you’re worried about it, Put the straight edge across the valve tips so you can get a measurement of the difference in tip height.

If you’re worried about it, Put the straight edge across the valve tips so you can get a measurement of the difference in tip height.
Once I have this difference, what would you recommend? I really don’t want to take this engine back apart unless necessary. Disabled with back surgery and just an being an old man.
 
Maybe this topic is the best place to ask. This is my 69 340 in my Dart after getting it back from the machine shop. The valve retainers are level with each other, but the top of the exhaust valve stems are higher than the intake. I have not measured the difference and did not notice this until the heads were installed and setting the valve lash. I have adjustable roller rockers to install, but could install the stock rockers also.
I’m looking for guidance on what I should do to correct this if it needs to be corrected. Did the machine shop screw me? I have an adjustable pushrod to get custom length pushrods, which is what I planned to do, but after reading this thread, you guys seem to be the right people to ask.

View attachment 1716490991
My understanding is that the typical difference in valve tip height between the intake and exhaust can come from the depth stop being set different when they change from cutting the valve job on one, say the intakes, to the other. Essentially the valve seat on one ends up deeper. Normally all the intakes would be cut in one setup and then the exhausts, or vice-versa. Could also come from the intake and exhaust valves being different lengths or lock location. As long as all the intakes are the same height as each other and same for exhaust, I wouldn't worry about it. If intake/exhaust tips are more than .050" different you may want to order pushrods specifically for each. With adjustable rockers that wouldn't be as big an issue on a stockfish build.

In that pic, it looks like the lock ring is further down the shaft from the tip on the exhaust valve on the end. That could come from the groove location being different on the valve or extended locks on the intake side? Looks like the tip heights are pretty close to each other but the installed spring height is different, if the spring seats were cut equally. Lots of potential variables.
 
Once I have this difference, what would you recommend? I really don’t want to take this engine back apart unless necessary. Disabled with back surgery and just an being an old man.
Get the measurement, then decide.

I will tell you I’m not as fussy about tip height variation as a lot of people are.
 
Stem Heights being off 'a little bit' is not very crucial ,of at all, to its performance.

However, your retainers look like you have spring Heights that are a good .080 difference from each other.. and thats huge in regards to spring pressure variance.
 

Stem Heights being off 'a little bit' is not very crucial ,of at all, to its performance.

However, your retainers look like you have spring Heights that are a good .080 difference from each other.. and thats huge in regards to spring pressure variance.

And coil bind. I didn’t say that because I doubt he’s running enough lift to get there but certainly he’s got more spring load in the exhaust.
 
My understanding is that the typical difference in valve tip height between the intake and exhaust can come from the depth stop being set different when they change from cutting the valve job on one, say the intakes, to the other. Essentially the valve seat on one ends up deeper. Normally all the intakes would be cut in one setup and then the exhausts, or vice-versa. Could also come from the intake and exhaust valves being different lengths or lock location. As long as all the intakes are the same height as each other and same for exhaust, I wouldn't worry about it. If intake/exhaust tips are more than .050" different you may want to order pushrods specifically for each. With adjustable rockers that wouldn't be as big an issue on a stockfish build.

In that pic, it looks like the lock ring is further down the shaft from the tip on the exhaust valve on the end. That could come from the groove location being different on the valve or extended locks on the intake side? Looks like the tip heights are pretty close to each other but the installed spring height is different, if the spring seats were cut equally. Lots of potential variables.
This is a slightly modified stock build, .030 over, slightly cammed with hydraulic flat tappet cam/lifters and roller rockers. All stock with 727 other than that.
The spring heights are equally set after machining the spring seats, the photo is a little misleading.
Full nut/bolt rotisserie restoration, numbers matching with build sheet. This was my old car from 1973 that I found 4 years ago, now back to showroom condition.
This is my last thing needing to be done before returning to the road.

Thank you everybody for your input and recommendations. I believe I’m going to leave this alone and install the rockers to adjust out the difference if any. I think the general consensus is for a “stock” build, I should be ok.
 
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