MaxJax M6K $899.95 iBaggyo

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QuickDart360 said:
If you don't mind me asking but what color is that duster? Looks super sharp. Lime it alot for my dart sport!:thumbsup:
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Thanks, it is Q5, a 1969 Dodge color. It's like a turquoise, sometimes it's blue and sometimes it green depending on lighting.

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It's wishful thinkin to think that price is legit. It's a scam.
 
Check the support URL for that site. If a search comes up with multiple websites. It's a scam. Read the reviews and more than likely you will see posts that say "wrong item shipped and they will only refund 60% or give you 100% credit to a useless sneaker website" if your convinced its legit, pay with PayPal (yeah, I know) but at least I got my money back in full with only 3 emails sent to paypal: item not as described (they sent me 6 covid masks) , screen shot original ad sent and screen shot of pathetic 60% refund offered. Boom, money refunded in 2 days.
 
pishta said:
Check the support URL for that site. If a search comes up with multiple websites. It's a scam. Read the reviews and more than likely you will see posts that say "wrong item shipped and they will only refund 60% or give you 100% credit to a useless sneaker website" if your convinced its legit, pay with PayPal (yeah, I know) but at least I got my money back in full with only 3 emails sent to paypal: item not as described (they sent me 6 covid masks) , screen shot original ad sent and screen shot of pathetic 60% refund offered. Boom, money refunded in 2 days.
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Thanks to everyone who took the time to respond to this thread.
 
From another website..."corporate HQ appears to be an abandoned house." ouch. I think a safe bet would be to call bendpak and see if ibaggyo is a legit reseller, that would also answer any warranty issues as gray market sellers (ie cameras) factory warranties are not valid if purchased from non licensed resellers. That website is slicker than the one that tried to dupe me. You could call or email customer service also and see what kind of response you get to a technical question about the product ie. shipping weight. If they cant tell you what it weighs, they probably drop ship or worse never ship it at all.
 
So using a wedge type anchor, whats the point in this lift being portable, since you have 4 studs in two locations protruding out of the floor, making a potential tripping hazard?
Id also be concerned with tightening and loosing anchors repeatedly and my biggest worry is do any of these lifts depend solely on the anchors
When building pump/ motor bases for higher HP/ volume pumps a type of grid was fabricated of the bolt studs for the pump and motor...high tensile strength rod with threads was used with steel work that was installed into the pedestal form and high strength concrete was poured......A wooded template led everything exactly in place
Of course everything has to be laid out spot on the money, but thats what millwright/boilermakers do
Anything can work "for years" until that one day happens and if that anything involved a persons safety id strongly advise that it be the strongest, best engineered, properly installed, safest product available.
 
I won't speak to the legitimacy of the website, but don't hate on the product if you haven't used one. We did 90% of the work on my '69 Valiant on a 3' parallelogram-style (undercar) mid-lift in my friend's garage. That included:
  • Replacing the entire LF frame rail
  • Partially replacing the LR rail
  • Both full floor pans
  • Rebuilding the RH rocker structure
  • Full inboard leaf spring relocation
  • Leaf spring sliders
  • Converting it to 4-speed
  • Disc brake conversion
  • Engine/transmission/rearend/header installations
  • US Car Tool inner fender braces
  • ...a lot of other piddly stuff
We never wanted for a full hoist, even though we had access to three of 'em. The front rail and floor pans were arguably easier with the car 3' off the ground than 7. Doing brakes sitting on a creeper seat is rather nice; I preferred it to standing. Engine work was more pleasant, too, since you're as not bent over (I'm 6'2", he's 6'6" and we both have bad backs). The only issue with that style of lift are drivetrain access and the room required in front of the car since it moves forward while lifting. I seriously considered getting the MaxJax after that, but my garage is small and all ate up with parts storage. Of course, if you have room for a full hoist you can just raise the car a few feet for things like we did, but neither of us have the ceiling clearance so that little mid-lift was a godsend.

Painting the underside of the floors, fabbing and hanging the exhaust, and setting pinion angle was done on a full hoist. Hey, smoke 'em if you've got 'em.
 
NoCar340 said:
I won't speak to the legitimacy of the website, but don't hate on the product if you haven't used one. We did 90% of the work on my '69 Valiant on a 3' parallelogram-style (undercar) mid-lift in my friend's garage. That included:
  • Replacing the entire LF frame rail
  • Partially replacing the LR rail
  • Both full floor pans
  • Rebuilding the RH rocker structure
  • Full inboard leaf spring relocation
  • Leaf spring sliders
  • Converting it to 4-speed
  • Disc brake conversion
  • Engine/transmission/rearend/header installations
  • US Car Tool inner fender braces
  • ...a lot of other piddly stuff
We never wanted for a full hoist, even though we had access to three of 'em. The front rail and floor pans were arguably easier with the car 3' off the ground than 7. Doing brakes sitting on a creeper seat is rather nice; I preferred it to standing. Engine work was more pleasant, too, since you're as not bent over (I'm 6'2", he's 6'6" and we both have bad backs). The only issue with that style of lift are drivetrain access and the room required in front of the car since it moves forward while lifting. I seriously considered getting the MaxJax after that, but my garage is small and all ate up with parts storage. Of course, if you have room for a full hoist you can just raise the car a few feet for things like we did, but neither of us have the ceiling clearance so that little mid-lift was a godsend.

Painting the underside of the floors, fabbing and hanging the exhaust, and setting pinion angle was done on a full hoist. Hey, smoke 'em if you've got 'em.
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I'll dislike something all I want. Thank you very much.
 
Steve welder said:
So using a wedge type anchor, whats the point in this lift being portable, since you have 4 studs in two locations protruding out of the floor, making a potential tripping hazard?
Id also be concerned with tightening and loosing anchors repeatedly and my biggest worry is do any of these lifts depend solely on the anchors
When building pump/ motor bases for higher HP/ volume pumps a type of grid was fabricated of the bolt studs for the pump and motor...high tensile strength rod with threads was used with steel work that was installed into the pedestal form and high strength concrete was poured......A wooded template led everything exactly in place
Of course everything has to be laid out spot on the money, but thats what millwright/boilermakers do
Anything can work "for years" until that one day happens and if that anything involved a persons safety id strongly advise that it be the strongest, best engineered, properly installed, safest product available.
Click to expand...

I used Redhead drop in anchors to mount my tubing bender to the floor. They are threaded and there is no stud, you run a bolt into them. I was able to remove the tubing bender from the center of my garage when not in use and not have it in the way. I probably installed/removed it 30-40 times over the years and I never had an issue with an anchor coming loose.
 
The cars people use that lift on weigh the same as the car the dealer/service station services on the lift in their shop. Look at how those lifts are installed, the lift base, the type anchors used and the specifications of the concrete...... Drop in anchors that grab the top couple of inches of concrete? No way id use them
If you use a lift once a week or all day every day, that lift has to be securely mounted in concrete that has the strength and depth required according to specifications
72Duster440 said:
I used Redhead drop in anchors to mount my tubing bender to the floor. They are threaded and there is no stud, you run a bolt into them. I was able to remove the tubing bender from the center of my garage when not in use and not have it in the way. I probably installed/removed it 30-40 times over the years and I never had an issue with an anchor coming loose.
Click to expand...
Im familiar with drop in anchors and have used them in certain applications. Installation of a car lift, I would never use them
 
Steve welder said:
The cars people use that lift on weigh the same as the car the dealer/service station services on the lift in their shop. Look at how those lifts are installed, the lift base, the type anchors used and the specifications of the concrete...... Drop in anchors that grab the top couple of inches of concrete? No way id use them
If you use a lift once a week or all day every day, that lift has to be securely mounted in concrete that has the strength and depth required according to specifications

Im familiar with drop in anchors and have used them in certain applications. Installation of a car lift, I would never use them
Click to expand...

I don't disagree with you, I would not be interested in using this type of setup either. And the concrete should still have the correct prep work, I was just saying a drop in anchor that catches the bottom half of the slab is an option, not one I would go with.

My buddy went with a set of Quick Jacks and loves them, they are also a design that seems useless to me, blocking any and all side access to under the vehicle. Seems like a good accidental push from the side would tip them over too, but I'm sure it wouldn't.
 
I am sure with all I have read that the product is great. However I would bet my Dart that site is a scam.
 
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