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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
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Well my explorer has a blown head gasket. My mechanic skills are very limited on this new stuff. I’m wondering what it takes to fix it my self as the estimate was close to $1000. I really have no idea what I would be doing but I couldn’t afford to have it done. Any special tools needed and do you need to replace head bolts?
 
72ScampTramp said:
Well my explorer has a blown head gasket. My mechanic skills are very limited on this new stuff. I’m wondering what it takes to fix it my self as the estimate was close to $1000. I really have no idea what I would be doing but I couldn’t afford to have it done. Any special tools needed and do you need to replace head bolts?
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A few details might bring more answers!
 
Some of Fords head bolts are for one use only. Depending on what engine, you may need special tools for the cam timing. If you type your car in on Autozone's website, they have free repair guides.
 
Well the details is my truck is pouring antifreeze out the back of the head. I had it checked out and it was confirmed a head gasket. 1997 ford explorer 4.0. Im curious as to why I would need cam tools? I don’t believe I would be doing anything with cam or timing?
 
Ford uses some funky fittings on the fuel system. Might need them to get the fuel fittings off. The set of them only cost $10-$15, at least when I bought them....not the one that I have but this will do [ame="http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-3408-Disconnect-Tool/dp/B000H6W406"]Amazon.com: KD Tools (KD 3408) Ford Fuel Line Disconnect Tool: Home Improvement[/ame].
 
The 4.0 is known for blown head gaskets. Not a difficult repair but I'd talk to a Ford tech to get the fix right so it doesn't reoccur. Brother-in-law had one. First one head while under warranty then the other side out of warranty.
 
Very first step is buy a FACTORY service manual and start reading. You can find them on the 'bay. You can ALSO find manuals on CD, but I've bought two from different souces and they are a real.....P.O.S. They required special installation techniques, were probably pirated, and use proprietary data files (not pdf, doc, etc)
 
72ScampTramp said:
Well the details is my truck is pouring antifreeze out the back of the head. I had it checked out and it was confirmed a head gasket. 1997 ford explorer 4.0. Im curious as to why I would need cam tools? I don’t believe I would be doing anything with cam or timing?
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Overhead cam in there right?
 
There are 2 different 4.0 motors.....one is a cam in block which is much easier to do head gaskets on.

The other is an overhead cam 4.0 This one has timing chains on the front & rear of the motor, and some genius designed the cam shafts and jack shaft so that there are no key ways, and no way to line up the timing marks because there are none! You need a special kit that attaches to the cams and crank pulley to set the cam timing.
 
Exactly what 67dart273 is saying the Factory Service Manual will be very beneficial and save you from pulling your hair out.
 
Yup, you have to replace the head bolts. I just put heads on my 2004 Ranger Josh and it has the 3.0 V6. It was the first one of those I have done and it was really easy. I hear the 4.0 is even easier. Also, there is a special procedure for torquing the head bolts. I also recommend coating the head bolts with high temp sensor safe silicone going back together. Ford recommends dry, BUT I have done it like that for years with great success. A lot of times some of those head bolts will break coming out and the silicone not only prevents that, but also seals any head bolt holes that go through into the water jacket if there are any. The silicone on the bolts will effect the torque somewhat, but it will not be enough to be a concern. The important thing is to follow the recommended tightening deestruckshuns and sequence. The upper intakes are almost the same on the 3.0 and 4.0 and I can tell you I had mine down to the lower intake with valve covers off in less than an hour. It's not too bad a job. what is a little bit of a pain are the accessories on the front of the engine. I took the brackets loose from the heads and let the brackets and accessories just lay loose in the front. Disconnect the exhaust from the manifolds and pull the manifolds out with the heads. Much easier that way.
 
No on the OHC. I have the service manuals for a 98 which is pretty much the same motor. But I know there are some little things that may not be printed. Just wondering how much time it might take.
 
it is a ferd, what can it hurt? it is already doa
 
i just pulled a trans on a 94 ranger 4+4 4.0 liter and it had the timeing drive were dist. was take spec tool to line up.and looked like it had to come out to pull intake.my truck exst. studs are paper thin but your going to have manifolds off anyway so you can work on them off the car/truck.good luck.
 
Only reason im even considering the internal sealer method is to limp me along till I either find something I want to buy or decide to fix it. Its been a pretty good truck for 6 years now. Its got some rust and isnt perfect but I wonder if its time to let it go.
 
Head gaskets usually don't blow, unless the engine is hopped. Have the head checked for straight. Anti-seize is good stuff.
 
green1 said:
Head gaskets usually don't blow, unless the engine is hopped. Have the head checked for straight. Anti-seize is good stuff.
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Well its leaking pretty good. I was thinking of trying one of them sealers to help slow it down or even stop it. I need to get some finances in order and find something reliable for decent price.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Only reason im even considering the internal sealer method is to limp me along till I either find something I want to buy or decide to fix it. Its been a pretty good truck for 6 years now. Its got some rust and isnt perfect but I wonder if its time to let it go.
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Blue Devil from Napa.
It is 60 bucks, and is supposed to be the best stuff. I have heard 2nd hand, that a friend has used it on several vehicles and it has run for several years. I don't know how severe, but it is rumored to be guaranteed, or money back.

I have a bottle in my truck for a niece's car. She is broke college student, and it is either Blue Devil, or JY for the car, because of finances, so we are going to give it a shot.
 
If it is a leak from compression escaping from the cylinder, I don't know of anything, nor have I ever seen anything that can fix the problem, even temporarily by adding to the coolant. I have seen products that claim to but never worked. You'd be talkin about easily in excess of 100 PSI and probably more like 150 PSI. That's a lot. Now if it's just leakin coolant from the water jacket side with no compression then I would give it a try.
 
I dont think I would try pulling the head if I were you.You will end up buying tools to get some of the bolts and nuts off.If you dont have a good set of tools you will end up rounding bolts or nuts off.once that happens you will end up taking it in anyway.
 
StrokerScamp said:
If it is a leak from compression escaping from the cylinder, I don't know of anything, nor have I ever seen anything that can fix the problem, even temporarily by adding to the coolant. I have seen products that claim to but never worked. You'd be talkin about easily in excess of 100 PSI and probably more like 150 PSI. That's a lot. Now if it's just leakin coolant from the water jacket side with no compression then I would give it a try.
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I agree with stroker on this and his last post. get a friend that has a pressure tester- you install it where the rad cap goes. (radiator or overflow tank-can't remember that particular one) pinch off the overflow hose from the rad to the overflow bottle w/ a vise grip. Pump up to rad cap spec- usually 13-16 lbs. You'll either see or hear the leak! This takes all the guess work out. That's how we chase it down in my shop. the head gaskets aren't that big of a deal on the 4.0's. 97 should be a normal head not OHC. You need new head bolts, resurface and pressure check the head (do BOTH heads- AMHIK) and you'll need a torque to yield adaptor or some white out (yeah the stuff for correcting paper mistakes) the procedure for the head bolts are retarded. Something like torque to 13 ft lbs. back off 1 1/2 turn, torque to 32 lbs, turn 90 degrees, turn another 90 degrees etc.. All i did when i started wrenching on these is used white out on the bolt head and made a spot on the head that I could track my progress. This is a day job at worse. Problem childs are the studs on the heads for the exhaust- use PD Blaster. Any other problems PM me....Good luck
 
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