Metal in my 8-3/4 housing. Know what this is??

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Cudafever said:
OK, now.
I plan on rebuilding my pos....sorry bad habits are hard to change:p. My sure grip tomorrow.
I have two sets of them, one has a friction material on it and the other one is just plain steel to steel. Which one would you use?
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Oh must have been under the influence of something(easier to explain) the last time i pulled these two clutch packs out of the closet.
NO Friction Material on Either Clutch pack sets.
Unless the set im pulling out has friction material on them....i must have been smoking the wrong pipe.:BangHead:
Will probably get it apart today but have to wait for the friction modifier to show up on tue before i will assemble it.

I know, I know! you don't care, You just want to see the carnage, right?:D
 
Did you find little square chunks of metal in you housing to?
 
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Ok you carnage lover here you go.
They were stuck together but a chisil and tap tap. they came apart.

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Cudafever said:
That brings up another thought.
anyone have problems with Synthetic gear oil and friction modifiers aka sure grip lube?
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Back in the day, we sold a lot of Pennzoil 4096 gear lube, a mineral based 80W-90 with the limited slip friction modifier additive already included. I don't remember the wholesale price, but retailers could sell it at $2.49/qt and do fine. I know it costs several times that now. In 32 years I never heard a complaint from a customer about a chattering diff that was using it. It's still out there, re-named Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90. I'd try it, because it's an optimum concentration, but I'm not sure where you'd find it. We sold a lot to independent parts stores, but they have all but disappeared. I think I have a case laying around somewhere. http://www.pennzoil.se/pdf/pdf-produktblad/Transmission/Gearplus 80w-90 GL-5 LS.pdf

I was told that all the limited slip additive was made by the same company. I can't verify this, but it may have been true at the time. We never sold it as a separate additive, but the OEMs did, and so did Kendall. The Mopar stuff is PN 4318060AC.
 
Does anyone know the pinion nut torque, or if the torque is difference between the 741/2 and 489 housing.
I know that the nut size is larger on the 489 housing.
My service manual says that it is 240 foot pound at the pinion nut for a 489 pinion.

This is a 742 housing.
 
Yes it is different but I don't have the spec

Maybe not;
my 69FSM says both step pinions are MINIMUM 240ftlbs. That would be the 741s and the 742s. The tapered (2881489) is spec'd at 170 minimum.
The minimums are to achieve the pinion turning torque of 20 to 30 inch-pounds with NO seal. This is not breakaway torque, which could be quite a bit higher. You need a small beam-type torque wrench to measure this with.
 
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This is for setting up a set of gears.
I'm only replacing a seal. If this was a crush sleeve set up, it may be more important to get the inch pound torque wrench out.
I would agree that the 489 is a lower torque do to a crush sleeve instead of shims. My 71 manual says 240 foot pounds
This is a 742 housing that i'm dealing with.
The ironic thing is that the 741 and 742 uses a socket that is 1-1/8" while the 489 housing uses a 1-1/4" socket
 
If just replacing a seal, I take my mini die-grinder with a .125x1.5 cut-off wheel and grind a shallow little notch across the joint line between the nut and the stem. Then after the new seal is in I tighten to align the index notch.
 
AJ/FormS said:
If just replacing a seal, I take my mini die-grinder with a .125x1.5 cut-off wheel and grind a shallow little notch across the joint line between the nut and the stem. Then after the new seal is in I tighten to align the index notch.
Click to expand...

I used a center punch......but then i decided to replace the nut, which kind wrecked that idea.
 
Yup. Whale oil. I remember that from the 80s when I got a job at a parts place. That stink just never goes away...lol.
 
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