Metering Valve?

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braptor52

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doing a 73-up disc brake swap on my 65 dart. have one question, i already have a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve, an i need to get a master cylinder now. if i get a duel res master from a 73 up car for manual disc/drum will it have a metering valve built into the master? or will i need to plumb one into the front brake circuit?

im running manual brakes using a ford 9" in the rear with drums, an disc up front
 
What is a "metering valve"? I have heard of a "residual valve". You don't want that in a disk brake circuit. Some MC's have them and they can be picked out with a screw (see posts).
 
He is thinking GM. Residual valve is inside the dual master cylinder and is used for rear drum brake to keep some lite pressure on rear drum shoes. If rear disc then you would remove it by the above mentioned screw method. If NOT using new master cylinder then should check if for disc brakes in front. All new and aftermarket master cylinders should work on disc/drum, some are setup for disc/disc. Your adjustable valve will be fine after adjustment. When I did my final adjustment it was in a empty parking lot on glare ice, very unforgiving surface.
 
"The metering valve compensates for this, making the drum brakes engage just before the disc brakes. The metering valve does not allow any pressure to the disc brakes until a threshold pressure has been reached. The threshold pressure is low compared to the maximum pressure in the braking system, so the drum brakes just barely engage before the disc brakes kick in."

It keeps the car from nose diving when you apply the brakes.

Okay so correct me if Im wrong, if there isn't a metering valve in the front circuit of the duel master cylinder, then there should be an internal residual valve in the master cylinder for the rear drum circuit? Basically doing the same job as a metering valve, which is to create an even application of the front an rear brakes. (not even pressures, but even application time)
 
Metering/ proportioning valves are two different things

Read this:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=81799

RESIDUAL valves are inside the master in single systems, inside the two line fittings at the outlet of the master in dual drum masters. These "hold" a slight RESIDUAL pressure to stop air from being sucked into the wheel system. This can happen because a cylinder can return so fast that the returning lip seal of the cup, under the force of the return spring, can suck a little air past the cup

The WARNING LIGHT switch on dual drum systems is NOT The same as a combination switch/ proportioning valve on a dual disc system.

METERING / PROPORTIONING valves are used to balance front/ rear braking action

As the thread link I posted shows, metering/ proportioning valves can be SEPARATE from the warning light switch, or PART OF the switch.
 
thanks for the reply, i guess what im trying to ask/figure out is what exactly i need to make my front disk swap right referring to the hydraulics portion. so do i just need the correct master an use an adjustable proportioning valve to fine tune the rears?
 
Yes, the adjustable proportioning valve is all you need to control the pressure to the rears. That part must be called a "metering valve" somewhere like GM world. Prop valves were never built into Mopar MC's. You don't require a residual valve for the rear drums. Those went away long ago when they changed to a cupped spring in wheel cylinders.

When you install your dual MC, you must re-plumb. In my 65 Dart, I re-puposed the factory "distribution block" (tee) for just the front tubes, by blocking the rear port and installing a 1/4" M to 3/16" F inverted flare adapter. Your new MC will have 3/16" tubes, not the big 1/4" tube of your factory single MC. I used a 3/16" inv flare union to connect to the factory rear tube. You can find these parts in the bubble packs at Autozone. Do not install a 3/16" tube into the top port of your distribution block (without above adapter). I know you can find tubing nuts that fit, but it will not seal correctly.

Many choices in MC. I think all 4-bolt ones are cast iron. You can get a firewall adapter to use a 2-bolt aluminum one. I used the booster & MC from a ~95 Breeze w/ ABS, but you don't require power brakes in an A, even with front disks. If you get too new, you run into bubble flare ports, which are harder to make (see youtube).
 
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