milling my 906's heads .080

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tooslow

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My 440 flat top slugs are down in the hole. I would like to increase my compression 1 point I have read where guy's have milled there 906 heads .100 and shaved a 1 second of there 1/4 mile times. I would like to go .080 and of course mill the intake side also
I was going to buy 440 Source heads and have them milled but my buddy told me I can have the iron heads milled for about $200--cheap, Have them checked for cracks first.
ANY OPINIONS OR ADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED
I am running a mechanical purple stick 559 and need to get my compression up a bit 160 or so

thanks
 
That is a LOT to cut off of the heads!
Several years ago, it was popular to deck the block .010 and mill the heads .050 to gain a point of compression. Keep in mind the engines came with the .020 steel head gasket. If you choose to use the common Fel Pro blue "1009" gasket, be aware that it is .039, almost double the thickness of the stock gasket.
I'm sure that you understand that by doing this, you're moving the valves and rocker arms closer to the block. You will need new pushrods that are shorter by the same amount that you had milled. Otherwise, you run the risk of either bottoming out the lifters or having problems because the valves don't fully close.
 
Years ago i bought a set of 452's that were opened up to max wedge port size and ported heavy by Dan Davork out of Waldo Fl. He also cut the heads .050. I ran these on a 440 with zero deck Wiesco pistons. I can tell you this, to me the heads looked and felt like they were fragile. They worked very well and made a lot of power. But later on they did crack around one of the head bolts on the upper row of short bolts. Was it due to the heads being cut .050? or the fact they were ported so much? I really don't know for sure. Just giving you something to consider.
 
mechanical so I should be ok with the pushrod length, If I go .080 what is the worst that could happen?????
 
mechanical so I should be ok with the pushrod length, If I go .080 what is the worst that could happen?????

Even with a mechanical cam the push rods could wind up to long. The adjuster can only be backed out so much on the rocker arms. Whats the worst tht can happen? Crack!
 
plan on cutting the intake face of the heads also...
 
They crack, maybe gasket let's go and you get water in a Cyl, you also may run into problems with the head bolts being to long. I have a set of bare 516 close chamber heads port them a bit ad big valves and they will flow well enough to take a big b body into the high tens your local let me know if your interested in them they have been on my shelf for 23 years
 
plan on cutting the intake valve of the heads also...
really for .080 on 906 heads?? the 906's are around 88 cc's I think ?? my pistons are KB with valve reliefs .050 down. Is .080 really that big of a deal.???
 
plan on cutting the intake face of the heads also...

sorry..put valve instead face...
 
Remember you will have to mill the intake manifold side of the heads, if you don't the bolts might not start and the port will defiantly have a miss match.
 
plan on cutting the intake face of the heads also...

That's why I am only thinking of .080. I have read of people going .100 with the 906 but when they mill the intake there is less material to seal the rocker cover. So was going to try .080 , My motor is pretty sweat and I sure don't want to hydraulic a cylinder
CRACK
more feedback please...still deciding??
 
Don Dulmage has done it for years and even more than .100". It's not like it hasen't been done. You just need to know you're removing a lot of metal. Things can happen.
 
Seems to me if your going for more comp. Why not start with a set of 915 closed chamber heads?
 
Seems to me if your going for more comp. Why not start with a set of 915 closed chamber heads?

Probably cause everybody thinks they are made of gold. The 516s would be a more economical choice.
 
They crack, maybe gasket let's go and you get water in a Cyl, you also may run into problems with the head bolts being to long. I have a set of bare 516 close chamber heads port them a bit ad big valves and they will flow well enough to take a big b body into the high tens your local let me know if your interested in them they have been on my shelf for 23 years

Also a good option. He is in Il. too.
 
Truly your best bet is a set of 440 source, or 915/516, if you find a set of 915 or 516's you can use the valves off your 906 if keeping to a tight budget.
 
There was a formula that was used many years ago to determine the amount of material that was needed to mill the intake port face of the heads. The thing is, when you mill the heads, the ports get closer to the deck and you are in effect , making the heads closer together. This makes the manifold sit UP and in all liklihood, NOT line up with the bolt holes or ports. The trick was to mill the heads at both the deck AND the intake face so that ANY intake could be used on the engine. Some guys only mill the deck side of the heads. The problem with that is that now you have to mill any and every intake you want to use on the engine.
The first 440 that I built in 2002 was a low mile 1978 cast crank mill from an Imperial. I had the cylinders honed and reused the stock pistons with new rings, bearings and gaskets. I did like I mentioned: had the block decked .010, milled the heads at the deck and intake face and slipped in a 280/474 cam. The intake bolted up like stock and the car ran great.
 
I have a good set of 516 cores, but they would not be cheap to ship.

I should clarify. They are better than cores. They could clean up and run as is. The seats, valves and guides are in great shape. They would need the larger 1.74 exhaust valve to really wake them up and hardened seats if you wanted those.
 
Thanks guy's for your input and I think I will have them milled .060. the rule is .0062 per cc . Then go racing/driving, intake also
This winter if my motor survives I will pull it out and change pistons with the addition of 440 source heads. I am putting a 67 notchback cuda 383 together and do not have time/cash to mess with the motor much on my challenger now
Plus on another site I got Buggered(ouch) because I did not understand static vs dynamic compression and quench. If someone can recommend a good read on this subject I would be greatfull and hopefully build better engines
 
It's actually somewhat simple. Static compression ratio is a comparison of the volume of a cylinder from top dead center to bottom dead center. Say the volume of one cylinder is 10 times as large with the piston at BDC than it is at TDC, the static compression ratio is 10:1.

Static compression ratio is a built in ratio and is unchangeable unless the engine is disassembled and parts are changed.

The dynamic compression (sometimes called running compression) takes the camshaft events into consideration. An engine is a simple air pump. It pumps air into and out of its cylinders to turn the crankshaft and make useable power.

It is how that air is pumped through the engine that can determine how much power and when that power is developed in the RPM curve of the engine. Things like how the engine will be used and what fuel it will be run on effect its ultimate outcome.

If it will be used to drive a street car and run on some kind of available pump gas, that must be taken into consideration. An engine with a fairly high static compression ratio can be tamed to run on pump gas with a camshaft that has the appropriate specs.

The later we close the intake valve for example, can result in cylinder pressure being bled off to suit the needs of pump gas available. An engine with say, 10.5:1 can run on pump gas if the dynamic compression ratio is around 8.1. Most people say 8.5 is the limit, and they are probably right, but I like to play it safe. Things like hot humid days and idling in traffic for long periods can get an engine to spark knock pretty quickly, so 8.1 is my limit for DCR (dynamic compression ratio).

Also too, cylinder head material has to be taken into consideration. Without trying to get into the iron VS aluminum argument, it is generally accepted that an engine with aluminum heads can stand more compression for the same fuel type than an engine with iron heads. For this discussion, I am leaving all the whys and wherefores at the doorstep.

There have been professional engine builders who've run engines with aluminum heads on pump gas with as much as almost 12:1 compression. By using a camshaft with a late intake valve closing, enough cylinder pressure can bleed off to make it possible.

Then you have things like quench that fit into the equation. All quench is, is getting the mixture squeezed into as tight a space as possible and causing turbulence. This turbulence allows for an even higher static and dynamic compression ratio to be had because the turbulence promotes a more complete burn, which has a cooling effect on combustion. More fuel is burned in combustion, instead of still burning going out the exhaust. .......at least that's my take on it. I am sure somebody will be along to argue their point shortly. lol

At any rate, simply put, static compression is that ratio that's built into the engine. In other words, "I have a 10.5:1 383 engine in my Dart."

Dynamic compression ratio (DCR) is that ratio that is effected by the camshaft, cylinder head type, material, quench or no quench and is somewhat "adjustable" if you will through the timing of the camshaft and the camshaft events.

As I said, take all of this with a grain of sand. I am sure someone will be along to tell me just how wrong I am. They always do. Whenever anyone asks a
"loaded" question like you have, I don't see all the critics brave enough to step up and try to explain it. At least I did try.
 
Thanks "RustyRatRod" for taking the time!!The best explanation have had.
Taking everything you have writtento account I should probally change my pistons to domed and get some good ALuinum heads to do it right.
I think my car would run better if got my dynamic CR to 160psi with the Mopar 559 Mech cam. I was just looking for a simple cheap way so I could keep working on my 67 Cuder. My machine shop will mill em and check em for cracks for $250....
 
That is a LOT to cut off of the heads!
Several years ago, it was popular to deck the block .010 and mill the heads .050 to gain a point of compression. Keep in mind the engines came with the .020 steel head gasket. If you choose to use the common Fel Pro blue "1009" gasket, be aware that it is .039, almost double the thickness of the stock gasket.
I'm sure that you understand that by doing this, you're moving the valves and rocker arms closer to the block. You will need new pushrods that are shorter by the same amount that you had milled. Otherwise, you run the risk of either bottoming out the lifters or having problems because the valves don't fully close.
I have used brass shim stock cut in squares with a hole drilled thru the center to shim the rocker shafts up whats taken off the heads. Brass because it easily forms the crescent in the pedestal when bolted down.
 
I went to Aerohead's website, they advertised 915/516 heads for like $499 (or was it $599?)-or is that the price to send them a set of heads and have them worked?
 
All quench is, is getting the mixture squeezed into as tight a space as possible and causing turbulence. This turbulence allows for an even higher static and dynamic compression ratio to be had because the turbulence promotes a more complete burn, which has a cooling effect on combustion. More fuel is burned in combustion, instead of still burning going out the exhaust. .......at least that's my take on it. I am sure somebody will be along to argue their point shortly. lol

Sounds like a pretty decent explanation-the only thing I would modify is that not only does quench promote a more complete burn due to turbulence in the fuel/air mixture, but also reduces the need for increased timing to promote the same complete combustion...which also reduces potential for detonation.
 
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