Missiles Frame Connectors

-
blue missile

blue missile

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Messages
2,151
Reaction score
79
Location
Austin Texas
OK guys lets see if I can explain this well enough without a pic of the connectors before I put them in . I took pics with my wife's phone but the stupid Motorola software isnt working to get them off so I borrowed a camera
and got pics after the fact.
Some one in another post about frame connectors, sent us all to big block dart, there was a series of pics using 2x3 tubing to do it.
After measuring and evaluating all the great info here, I decided to use
1 1/2"x3" Tubing in stead.
You dont have to cut the floorboard, and you still get a solid 1' of attachment to it.
the tubes are 46"long, at one end you cut out 8" of the top 3"face, and at the other end you cut off 1" of the three faces creating an 1" tab for the tranny crossmember end.The other end will slip over the existing rear frame member quite nicely.
I used a floor jack to push up on the piece which snugged it up against the floor pan as well.
I also made an end plate 5"x4" that sits at the end with the tab to make attaching that end easier. Weld every place that touches.
I then made a couple of mid-span supports to attach the portion of the floor that was out of reach of the tube.
The end result is the connectors are no lower to the ground, than the original frame save1/8"
I have about $30 in this project.
Andrew

frame connectors 003.jpg


frame connectors 004.jpg


frame connectors 005.jpg


frame connectors 002.jpg


frame connectors 006.jpg


frame connectors 007.jpg
 
Hey! That's preety nice. Good use of the old noodle. Anymore pictures? Keep'em coming.
 
Cool, The notched cross member piece should make it even more rigid without going through the floor. Nicely done. :cheers:
 
For the record the mid-span cross members are made out of 16Ga metal.
And heres a pic of the E cable above all the work, with this method it is not necessary to move it.
I may have to notch or drill holes in the cross members for the Ecables time will tell.
Andrew

frame connectors.jpg
 
Thanks for posting those pics, that 1-1/2 X 3 tubing looks like the way to go. Was the engine in the car when you welded those in? What do you mean by "bump"?
 
No the engine is not in the car, but the car is on 4 jackstands under the main points of the frame so the car is sitting square to the floor.
BUMP, is what you do when you want the post to be put back at the top of the list, which I did so you could find it.
Andrew
 
I like the frame connectors. They go nice with the front radiator support and rear shock mounts you built. Maybe a nice piece of 1 1/2"x3" to connect the two frame connectors together intergrating a drive shaft loop would work nice with that set up. I'm liking the missile.... so far.
 
First- Daredevil,
sure, remember my motto- "I'M SLOW BUT EXPENSIVE":toothy10:
Caleb,
thanks for the cudos. This has been one of the most frustrating series of welding projects in that the MIG welder is a loner. It has a personality quirk the drives me up the wall. Even in the closed shop under the best of circumstances the wire feed is not smooth, It pauses and stops in the middle of a weld making getting a good looking weld quite a challenge. I was for many years a certified welder in Florida and for a few years here in Texas.
Now the quality of the weld outside in the driveway is purely proportional to the lack of wind. But I will not let any of these circumstances stop me.
As far as the driveshaft loop goes, it will have one but I want to get the drivetrain in place first.
Andrew
 
blue missile said:
No the engine is not in the car, but the car is on 4 jackstands under the main points of the frame so the car is sitting square to the floor.
BUMP, is what you do when you want the post to be put back at the top of the list, which I did so you could find it.
Andrew
Click to expand...
Thanks Andrew. I got some more positive feedback about leaving the engine out. I have not yet gotten any responce from those who say to leave it in. One guy said it was imperative to leave it in but did not elaborate, that is why I'm asking this question to death, I don't want any structural issues after I do this. Thank you for your input.
 
blue missile said:
First- Daredevil,
sure, remember my motto- "I'M SLOW BUT EXPENSIVE":toothy10:
Caleb,
thanks for the cudos. This has been one of the most frustrating series of welding projects in that the MIG welder is a loner. It has a personality quirk the drives me up the wall. Even in the closed shop under the best of circumstances the wire feed is not smooth, It pauses and stops in the middle of a weld making getting a good looking weld quite a challenge. I was for many years a certified welder in Florida and for a few years here in Texas.
Now the quality of the weld outside in the driveway is purely proportional to the lack of wind. But I will not let any of these circumstances stop me.
As far as the driveshaft loop goes, it will have one but I want to get the drivetrain in place first.
Andrew
Click to expand...
I can relate to the wire feed problem. A bad machine can give a good welder a bad name!! When it's cold or if I'm welding thicker metal, I pre heat with the O/A torch. Works great.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top