missing on number 2 3 5
- Thread starter rigrunner
- Start date
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put new plugs in still same fires dies immediatly. ran a jumper from the pos sied of bat to pos side of coil and it arched unhooked the pos wire from coil left comdenser hooked up ran a jumoer to coil still the same. do i have a short?
nothingbutdarts
Well-Known Member
When you say still the same does that mean it starts with the key and then dies right after you let go of the key?
As far as a short, do you have a volt meter? You have two wires to the coil, I'm not sure of the wire colors so put your black meter lead to a known ground, turn the key on and see which of the two wires has battery voltage when they are disconnected from the coil. That wire is the wire that goes to the + side of the coil. If the dist. pick-up was inalignment when you hooked up the jumper wire it sure could have arched.
it tries to run when your cranking on it then when you let the switch go to run its tries to run on but dies. i had absolutle no probs before the intake swap im starting to think its in the intake but after swapping it it would run but miss badly then it wouldnt run at all so i change the coil plugs and ballist resister and it just sputters and dies it getting fire to the plugs even tried the old carb with adapter and no change. im thinking bout putting the old intake and carb back on
have you check you ign wires for resistance Yet?
You can buy a volt meter for $9 at any parts store that would work just fine!
how about pinching of a wire on the back of the intake..........that would be consistent with you intake swap..............
You can buy a volt meter for $9 at any parts store that would work just fine!
how about pinching of a wire on the back of the intake..........that would be consistent with you intake swap..............
not yet did look for pinched wires found none im just walking away for a day getting to frustrated to mess with it
Can sure understand that!!!!
Just remember, A IGN Wire can Look grate.......... and be Vary Broken....In performance.
I chased what i thought was a valve floating miss at top rpm.
After changing every thing, but the car,............I fixed it with a set of wires!!!!!!!!!!
Don't over look the simple stuff first!
what i dont understand was it would run poorly after i put the intake and carb on and now it just fires and dies. i have fire to the plugs they smell of gas so im geting fuel i just wonder if the intake or gasket had a leak or crack and the little running it did pushed on out so it wont run at all. leaving out for and east coast run around 2am and will be gone a week so its gonna give me time to think on it thanks
think im gonna put the old intake and carb back on when i get back home to see if it cures it. i normally put the included black sealant around all ports on the gasket both head and intake side use the cork gaskets and apply sealer to the corners where the cork goes. is this the best way to install or the wrong way looking for last thoughts before doing this again thanks
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
a thin coat of rtv below the ports is a good idea as insurance you don't [due to bad angles from milling] suck oil from the valley.
you didn't use a metal gasket on the aluminum intake did you?
you didn't use a metal gasket on the aluminum intake did you?
metal gasket yes the intake is a cast iron factory 4bbl 273. could using too much rtv cause a prob. im going to put the 2bbl back on next week if time permits. put rtv only on the bottom side of ports is that on both sides of gasket? thanks
moper
Well-Known Member
Use the stock ones. They're fine. Torque froim the center out in steps.
On the running... If it will fire while you're key is truned to the "start" position, but the engine dies when you let off and it turns back to the "run" position, you need to replace the dual ballast resistor. To test this, simply use jumper wires to connect the two pairs of wires at the ballast. If it starts and runs, get a new ballast. If it does the same thing, it is either the ignition switch or the wiring.
On the running... If it will fire while you're key is truned to the "start" position, but the engine dies when you let off and it turns back to the "run" position, you need to replace the dual ballast resistor. To test this, simply use jumper wires to connect the two pairs of wires at the ballast. If it starts and runs, get a new ballast. If it does the same thing, it is either the ignition switch or the wiring.
swapped the original intake and 2bbl carb back on it still wont run i had another ballest resister and changed that i cant find any broken wires and cap rotor everything looks good it just spits a little when cranking it i cant get it to really run while engaging startee it just hits and misses ehile trying to start it. how can i check my switch and could my distibutor have gone bad i think its the original?
after all this it was the ignition module less than a year old. first the fuel pump it was onl 4mnth old now this no more parts from advance this is rediculess. all this time and money spent and im still with the wore out 2bbl carb. thinking the 4bbl not worth the effort. thanks so much for all the help. bye the way if you get the right person at advance they will test the ignition module
63dartman
Well-Known Member
Did you do your cam swap at the same time. You mentioned that it "might be a tooth off"? That alone would cause major issues. If you did them at the same time I would be looking at that issue first.
I just reread your post and I guess your talking about the distributor gear?
Man I'm slow. I just saw it was the ignition module. Glads to see you got it fixed.
I just reread your post and I guess your talking about the distributor gear?
Man I'm slow. I just saw it was the ignition module. Glads to see you got it fixed.
did the cam a while back lost a lobe so got a bigger cam picked up a cheap carb and intake and man what a mess
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