Mix ARP and Stock Main Bolts?

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mopowers

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I have a set of ARP main bolts I was planning on using for a small block build. I was also planning on running a stock windage tray, which would require the use of the four special main bolts.

I'm sure it's probably not ideal, but would it be catastrophic to use the stock main bolts with the windage tray standoffs along with the ARP main bolts on the other three main caps?
 
I cant even imagine why it would be a problem. If you had a failure, id say there would have to be another issue at play.
 
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I have a set of ARP main bolts I was planning on using for a small block build. I was also planning on running a stock windage tray, which would require the use of the four special main bolts.

I'm sure it's probably not ideal, but would it be catastrophic to use the stock main bolts with the windage tray standoffs along with the ARP main bolts on the other three main caps?
Catastrophic? Probably not but I believe the arp uses a higher torque value than stock. Mixing torque specs is a no-no imo.
 
I have seen plenty of guys run studs, and throw one stock bolt in for oil pump clearance issues.

I also don't run a windage tray because the windage tray studs were on backorder when I put it together. And been 12 years of spinning 7500 rpm with no oil pressure loss cavitation, or issues. Kevko pan with a scraper and trap doors however...

2 points for the sake of argument.
 
Thanks for the input. The ARP bolts call for 110 ft-lbs while the stock bolts call for 85 ft-lbs.

I've used ARP and stock windage tray bolts multiple times. Torqued to stock specification without issue. 65
Thank you. So you've gotten away with torquing ARP bolts to 85 ft-lbs? That's 23% less than what they specify. I guess that shows how much wiggle room there really is in these things.

I have seen plenty of guys run studs, and throw one stock bolt in for oil pump clearance issues.
Thank you. I thought about this too. I think I even had a SB at one point that had ARP studs (with the one oil pump bolt). I would think the clamp load difference between studs and bolts would be a bigger difference than ARP vs stock bolts, but ARP doesn't seem to worried about it in that instance.
 
I'd say it's a bad idea to torque ARO bolts to stock torque. Bolts are springs, and they tell you how to torque them so SO IT!


I have seen plenty of guys run studs, and throw one stock bolt in for oil pump clearance issues.

I also don't run a windage tray because the windage tray studs were on backorder when I put it together. And been 12 years of spinning 7500 rpm with no oil pressure loss cavitation, or issues. Kevko pan with a scraper and trap doors however...

2 points for the sake of argument.


A scraper is much better than a windage tray, so is the aftermarket race oil pan.
 
The bolts matching dose not matter, but the clamp load does. Check your main bearing clearances. If you swapped to ARP with a different torque (clamp load) the bearing bores may be distorted enough to cause bearing issues. You will have varrying bearing clearances unless you had the block line honed with the fasteners you are planning to used torqued to how you are going to assemble the engine.
 
I've done the one stock bolt on the rear cap with studs on the rest.. and I've done the 85 pounds on the studs as well.
Machining plays a part. Not an issue with either way.
You are supposed to use the 12 point nut that comes in the arp kit on the rear under the pump, once in and torqued.. you grind it down some.. and to keep that grinding to a minimum.. you also grind the pump a lil too.

Fwiw If you just buy the arp stud kit, it has the 4 with extended thread tops to hang the tray onto. Use double nuts above/below the tray to gain the correct height.
 
Are the threads fine or course? I know the head studs are different torquing thread counts.
 
So, I don’t know if it would create an issue, but it seems that is a significant difference. Fine thread at higher torque setting compared to coarse at lower. More friction with fine thread…..now my head hurts!:) I don’t run a windage tray, but should. Kevco pan with a scraper ish?
 
I've done the one stock bolt on the rear cap with studs on the rest.. and I've done the 85 pounds on the studs as well.
Machining plays a part. Not an issue with either way.
You are supposed to use the 12 point nut that comes in the arp kit on the rear under the pump, once in and torqued.. you grind it down some.. and to keep that grinding to a minimum.. you also grind the pump a lil too.

Fwiw If you just buy the arp stud kit, it has the 4 with extended thread tops to hang the tray onto. Use double nuts above/below the tray to gain the correct height.
stupossedly, arp finally corrected the rear studs/oil pump chicanery in their kits. i think @NC Engine Builder reported it on a recent build of his?

point still stands on the pump tho. sometimes there needs to be a little clearance for the clarence due to oil pan tolerances.
 
stupossedly, arp finally corrected the rear studs/oil pump chicanery in their kits. i think @NC Engine Builder reported it on a recent build of his?

point still stands on the pump tho. sometimes there needs to be a little clearance for the clarence due to oil pan tolerances.
I know of the hv pumps , in that they're taller and can or have been known to interfere with the stock pan.
 

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