MJ's 71 Beaver (Dart)

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What are the opinions on leaf springs?

A) sand/paint/new bushings on slant 6 springs with caltracs (probably temporary just to get it going)
B) Calvert split mono's with caltracs
C) SS springs (do they even need a traction bar?)
D) any other recommendations you guys can come up with

Keep in mind we'll probably be going with a 255 drag radial and it will likely never see the 1/4 mile given that the greater Phoenix area is about to lose our last drag strip.
 
The Calvert set up is the best listed.
The S/S’s don’t need a traction device added
The /6 bars with Calverts is possibly the cheapest and should still get be effective.

Assassin is similar to Calverts set up but better by a hair.
Use sliders at the rear of the springs.
If using stock type springs, cut the rear clamps off.
 
We finally had some free time to assemble the rear and slide it under the car with new SS springs and all new associated hardware and brackets. The rear disk conversion was short the t bolts for the housing end that come with the doctor diff kit. He was great and got a set out ASAP but for now we were just able to temporarily secure the backing plates and rotors to get dimensions for wheel selection. Once we roll the fender lip in I'm hoping that will buy us an extra 0.5" on the curbside. If that is the case I'm thinking a 255 wide tire with a 10.1" section width on an 8" wide wheel should fit, but as always, we're very open to criticism or ideas. As of now it looks like we need an 8" wide wheel with either 5" backspacing or +12mm offset. The idea for now is to go a black steel wheel to keep it cheap. Any recommendations on a good vendor, or anecdotes on what tires will actually fit, or anything you guys can think of will be much appreciated. Thanks

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if you're careful rolling the arch lips you'll get near to an inch extra room as you're able to 'push' the 1/4 panel out too. unless parked next to a stocker it won't notice. not a dart but after rolling the arches on my 68 valiant i fitted 8 1/2" slot mags with 295 50 15's under there.
neil.
 
if you're careful rolling the arch lips you'll get near to an inch extra room as you're able to 'push' the 1/4 panel out too. unless parked next to a stocker it won't notice. not a dart but after rolling the arches on my 68 valiant i fitted 8 1/2" slot mags with 295 50 15's under there.
neil.
Nice! That’s what I like to hear. If we can get 6” on each side of the wheel mounting surface that would be great. Running a zero offset wheel seems to open up more wheel options. I’m pretty sure mj will just buy a harbor freight roller. Do you all have any opinions on brand/functionality? Is it worth it to double the price for the Eastwood unit?
 
what is the minimum clearance you guys have ran between the curbside of tire to the inside of the fender? I’d assume that the leaf spring side needs slightly more clearance due to tire bulge especially with an aired down drag radial. At what clearance does the fender start to kiss the tire during bumps/cornering?
 
On my Duster, I have a stock A-body 8.75, I am running 275's using stock 15x7 4.25" back space rims.
Plenty of room on the springs, and 1/4 panel, with no fender rolling.

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This thread is not dead. We’ve been slowly plugging away at things. Mj and I both found out we’re having our first kids (daughters) 3 weeks apart in March so I can’t imagine that’s going to speed this process up. We have stripped, rebuilt and painted front uppers and lower control arms. 1.08” torsions are on the way or maybe already here, idk. Front disc conversion has been around for a while so we hand tightened it together and measured for front wheels. I’m thinking a 15x7” with a slight negative offset (curbside offset) and 225/60 tires will do. And as always please give us examples of wheel/tire combos you’ve ran on the front of your A-bodies. I always like to have more data points. Oh and we welded in the ball joints because mopar was awesome and made threads out of diarrhea. Those joints wouldn’t go past finger tight before popping out. Hopefully I waited long enough between welds to let the grease cool down and not cook the innards

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oh and we took a rear 255/60 wheel/tire to just swing it through its paces on the front. It touched inboard and rear when cranked full right, and would certainly run into front fender when cranked left. We’re not afraid to trim a little bit I think stepping down 1” wheel width and 1.5” overall diameter should help
 
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