Modified cooling system through side of block

-
D

Duane

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2009
Messages
2,001
Reaction score
878
Location
Ontario Canada
Is anyone feeding coolant to the sides of their block through the center frost plugs ?
I have read on another forum by Sanborn about feeding the coolant to the sides of the block from the timing chain cover.
The thread on mopar chat does not have the photos anymore and I wondered if anyone could post photos of the modification ,specifically how you added the lines to the time nag chain cover.
Thanks

Duane
 
Something like that is done on the mopar 2.2L turbo engines, but they are prone to head gasket failure on #4. I am not aware of chronic problems on SBM.
 
7-13-2007W5Engine-01.jpg


this was our old 340/W5 416 mill. Was filled and we ran water lines from the front cover (reverse flow) to the middle of the block where the Siamese exhaust ports are to alleviate a possibility of a hot spot.
 
That thread by sanborn is an ancient one. I remember reading that one and also his oiling mods. Great info. I think those pics might be up on another forum. I will look.
 
A body said:
7-13-2007W5Engine-01.jpg


this was our old 340/W5 416 mill. Was filled and we ran water lines from the front cover (reverse flow) to the middle of the block where the Siamese exhaust ports are to alleviate a possibility of a hot spot.
Click to expand...
So, A body, the water would flow from the block into the bottom of the radiator correct? is there a huge gain in reverse flow?? I could see a gain in feeding cool water into the block below the centre two exhaust ports on a part filled block and am thinking of doing the same on my 408, or at least prepping the block to do so before it goes togeather, looks like you welded a couple of AN fittings to a standard timing cover correct?
Thanks
Greg
 
mopardude318 said:
That thread by sanborn is an ancient one. I remember reading that one and also his oiling mods. Great info. I think those pics might be up on another forum. I will look.
Click to expand...

Yes the thread by Sanborn is an old one but I recently discovered the same modification is recommended in the "How to build big inch stroker small blocks" book. I have never been able to see the photos that originally were postedd with the Sanborn thread. His oiling mods thread is one of the b st ones I have seen as well.
 
A body said:
7-13-2007W5Engine-01.jpg


this was our old 340/W5 416 mill. Was filled and we ran water lines from the front cover (reverse flow) to the middle of the block where the Siamese exhaust ports are to alleviate a possibility of a hot spot.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I was hoping to see. Can you tell me what size those an fittings on the hose are and is there any chance you could post a closeup photo of the timing cover fittings.
We're the fittings on the timing cover threaded or welded on?

Duane
 
Follow the other thing that he wrote and you will have a better cooler running water system with out the fab of new water piping.
install the freeze plug in the front water port of the head.(head gasket seals that hole) then drill a 1/8 hole in it and the gasket. (Prevents steam pocket) pull the water pump much closer to the timing cover( I welded a alu plate in the time cover/water pump cover)
Just follow sanborns basic mods and you will be happy.
 
image.png
image.png
Duane said:
Is anyone feeding coolant to the sides of their block through the center frost plugs ?
I have read on another forum by Sanborn about feeding the coolant to the sides of the block from the timing chain cover.
The thread on mopar chat does not have the photos anymore and I wondered if anyone could post photos of the modification ,specifically how you added the lines to the time nag chain cover.
Thanks

Duane
Click to expand...
Here is another photo showing how I plan to do this mod.
 
Why would you need to add all these extra cooling lines. Will it help HP?
 
The extra cooling line will allow all the possible horse power because it keeps things cool. On a stout engine, in this case the small block, the twin exhaust ports are hotter than the two outboard ports. The heat can effect the quality of air and fuel as well as the amount being taken in and properly ignited. A cooler engine takes in cooler air and fuel which is of course, power.
 
rumblefish360 said:
The extra cooling line will allow all the possible horse power because it keeps things cool. On a stout engine, in this case the small block, the twin exhaust ports are hotter than the two outboard ports. The heat can effect the quality of air and fuel as well as the amount being taken in and properly ignited. A cooler engine takes in cooler air and fuel which is of course, power.
Click to expand...
Yes it is to promote more even cylinder to cylinder temperatures.
It is pointed out in the big inch stroker small block book that the large 1 inch coolant hole that is cast into all la small blocks was removed by Chrysler in the magnum blocks to promote more even cooling. I have threaded all four of these holes on my block to add a pipe plug with a .125 drilled bleeder hole. Now I will need custom or modified head gaskets that have both of those large cooling holes instead of one. This mod along with feeding coolant to the center frost plug is supposed to help cool the two center cylinders that have two exhaust valves side by side by having the Coolant travel first to the hottest part of the engine.

Duane
 
If you are running wide open for hours at a time.......these External pipe will help. If not your just have fun with it all. And that's all right two!
I got a round disc stamper that i used to enlarge the head gasket water holes.
 
Duane said:
Yes it is to promote more even cylinder to cylinder temperatures.
It is pointed out in the big inch stroker small block book that the large 1 inch coolant hole that is cast into all la small blocks was removed by Chrysler in the magnum blocks to promote more even cooling. I have threaded all four of these holes on my block to add a pipe plug with a .125 drilled bleeder hole. Now I will need custom or modified head gaskets that have both of those large cooling holes instead of one. This mod along with feeding coolant to the center frost plug is supposed to help cool the two center cylinders that have two exhaust valves side by side by having the Coolant travel first to the hottest part of the engine.

Duane
Click to expand...
Can you show that by chance?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Can you show that by chance?
Click to expand...
I drilled and tapped into the block, about halfway down between the two center exhaust ports, into the water jacket. they were feed off of the side of the water pump, which pushed cool water into the center cylinders. also drilled and tapped holes into the back of the intake, for lines returning to the thermostat housing to complete the extra circuit, worked great . reamed out 1/4" pipe fittings w/ 3/8" lines will be cheap and effective. course that was on a sbc.
 
Yeaaaaaa, drilling and tapping a sbm @ the center ports on the intake side is do-able for an exit. Rear as well just like the sbc. But not the exhaust side. (I think anyway.)
 
rumblefish360 said:
Yeaaaaaa, drilling and tapping a sbm @ the center ports on the intake side is do-able for an exit. Rear as well just like the sbc. But not the exhaust side. (I think anyway.)
Click to expand...
famous bob said:
I drilled and tapped into the block, about halfway down between the two center exhaust ports, into the water jacket. they were feed off of the side of the water pump, which pushed cool water into the center cylinders. also drilled and tapped holes into the back of the intake, for lines returning to the thermostat housing to complete the extra circuit, worked great . reamed out 1/4" pipe fittings w/ 3/8" lines will be cheap and effective. course that was on a sbc.
Click to expand...
I prefer to do this mod through the frost plug. No risk of weakening the block and is reversible if necessary. Rumble fish I am just off to work. I will try to post some pics for you tonight.

Duane
 
I do not think mine gets hot enough to do this mod. I only race 1/8 mile (6.20's) never gets over 180.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Can you show that by chance?
Click to expand...
Here are some photos showing the difference between the magnum block and an la block.
On a 9.000 inch deck height r3 block notice how the water passage is "D" shaped almost making a side of the block feed mandatory to get adequate flow as is recommended.
The photo with the brass pipe plug is my block with the recommended 1/8 drilled hole which is supposed to let any air pockets out of the system and keep the water flowing. This is also recommended as well as two return lines to the thermostat housing area to let the rear most cylinders get rid of heat. I should point out that these mods are supposedly more important if your engine uses cast iron heads to prevent cracking from hot sections. I am using a W2. On a siames block you cannot get adequate flow between the centre two cylinders, so the side of block feed is also recommend.
W9 heads come with provisions for three separate return water lines with the centre ones being a larger size to address the centre two cylinders running the hottest.

Duane

image.png


image.png


image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
D-50394 said:
I do not think mine gets hot enough to do this mod. I only race 1/8 mile (6.20's) never gets over 180.
Click to expand...
If you are taking your temp reading from the water manifold then you are probably getting a reading of mostly the front two cylinders only. The water from the water pump flows right from the pump and into the manifold. That is the flaw that Chrysler got rid of on the magnum blocks. It is not a true temp reading of the entire engine.

Duane
 
Ahhhh, I see!
Excellent! Thank you!

Has anyone out there have pictures of water removal from the center of the head intake side by chance?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top