Molex, Delphi, metri-pack and other connectors

-
straightlinespeed

straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
10,628
Reaction score
4,399
Location
Uvita, Costa Rica
Hi guys, Im gathering parts for a rewire job on my car and I want to buy some connectors for the steering column and other areas. My worry is that the amp rating on the connectors. I have no idea how many amps are going to the ignition switch when you turn the key to start the car and I want to make sure that the new connectors I get dont burn up and fuse together like the originals did.

I have a catalog that has all the various connectors in them like stated above that has amp ratings for the number of wires in the connector. For instance a 9 wire Molex connector is good for 9-12 amps. Depending on the metri-pack connector it ranges from 14-46 amps. Now Im not sure if that is per wire or the entire connector, it does not specify.

Some of you have recommended the Molex, others the metri-pack. Im mostly only worried about the steering column connection, because it looks like the rest of the car uses the 56 series connectors and I will reuse the connectors that are still good. Just seeing these numbers in the catalog got me thinking and I want to be safe and not burn my car down.
 
Frankly, I would do what you can to relieve the strain on the switch.

My headlights are run through relays, so the light switch, dimmer are only firing up one of two relays

Ignition/ charging system

Fuel pump

EFI

All go through relays, so the IGN switch only fires up relay coils
 
67Dart273 said:
Frankly, I would do what you can to relieve the strain on the switch.

My headlights are run through relays, so the light switch, dimmer are only firing up one of two relays

Ignition/ charging system

Fuel pump

EFI

All go through relays, so the IGN switch only fires up relay coils
Click to expand...

I would love to do something like that but honestly Im not electrically inclined enough to figure out how to wire in a set of various relays.
 
I know a guy that does a plug and play headlight relay kit... LOL
 
If you have any questions ask away.

Wire around and headlight relay really takes a load off the ammeter and bulkhead. The stock stuff is pretty decent if you get some of the load off.
 

RELAYS RELAYS RELAYS

It's easy! Go to the salvage yard, snag the relay panel out of the late-model of your choice (I like Neon panels). Use the switch to run low current power to operate the relay, use the relay to run heavy-current (Wires sized as required)
 
setting up relays is not all that hard. I recommend a book by Tony Candela "Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems." This book is the best one that I have read on the subject. Explains relays so you can easily understand them. I like the metri pack.
 
crackedback said:
If you have any questions ask away.
Click to expand...

Could you just explain the basic principle to me. I looked at images on the net of wiring schematics and I think I get it but yet I dont. To me you still have the 12v power going to the switch, then out thru the switch when you turn it on. to a relay that basically acts like another switch, turning on and then say energizing your headlights. So the large draw is still on that circuit? Am I understanding a little bit?
jos51700 said:
RELAYS RELAYS RELAYS

It's easy! Go to the salvage yard, snag the relay panel out of the late-model of your choice (I like Neon panels). Use the switch to run low current power to operate the relay, use the relay to run heavy-current (Wires sized as required)
Click to expand...

Any particular year?

omahamoparguy said:
setting up relays is not all that hard. I recommend a book by Tony Candela "Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems." This book is the best one that I have read on the subject. Explains relays so you can easily understand them. I like the metri pack.
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll look for that book.
 
Yes, the circuit is still seeing 12 volts.

>> So the large draw is still on that circuit?

No. By using a relay, the current flowing through the switch is reduced.

Basically a relay is an electromagnetic switch. The basic principal is that by using a relay, your switch (head light, for example) does not have much current flowing through it to trigger the relay. The relay does the heavy lifting (handling the higher current) when triggered.

The less current the head light switch handles, the less heat, wear, etc.

To quote the Candela book [1] [2] (which I also highly recommend)..."Use a low current controller to operate a high current accessory."

I hope that helps.

[1] [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Wiring-Electrical-Systems-Workbench/dp/1932494871/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388529492&sr=8-1&keywords=automotive+electrical+and+wiring"]Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems (Workbench Series): Tony Candela: 9781932494877: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]

[2] http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/
 
Thank you for the links dehort.

Ok, so I see they have 2 different Bosch style relays a 20/30 and a 30/40 I assuming for the ignition, electric fan, fuel pump I would want the higher amp rated relay and headlights I would want on the lower amp rated relay?

Also how do you determine what all to install on relays. I understand the high current draw items, but the rest of the typical wiring such as dash, interior lights, radio, gauges etc... can just be wired out of the fuse panel, correct?
 
I got a relay/ fuse panel out of a 90's Voyager and mounted it on the left finder apron:

image.php


I will admit I did a fair amount of re-wiring underneath. There are plug in fuses at upper right, and the larger series (don't recall what they are called) along the far right. These last fuses are available in some pretty large amperage ratings.

I didn't use all the relays.. Basically, all underhood loads are on relays........ignition/ alternator field/ regulator, electric fuel pump, and EFI.

Think of a relay as a little girl who you are yelling to. "Turn on the switch."

Basic relays are SIMPLE. Here's a standardized diagram from the so called popular "Bosch" series

RelayWiringGuide.jpg


Here (bottom of post) is a very good functional drawing

The magnet coil, at the bottom is energized by the "control circuit." In this case this would be the power coming FROM the ignition switch THROUGH the bulkhead which you have DISCONNECTED from the original load. Instead, you hook the output of the key to 86, and ground 85. Now, when you turn on the key, the magnet coil generates a magnetic field (becomes a magnet)

..........and pulls the "steel plate" (actually called the armature) down against the magnet so that the contacts CHANGE from the middle one (87A) to the bottom one (87)

So with the key 'on', the magnet energized, the SWITCH is now going between 30 and 87

87A is not hooked to anything when used for an "on off" function.

Contacts care called out by how many and their position. Have a setup like this one is called "SP" for "Single Pole." This means ONE SET of contacts. The other "half" of the description is "DT" for "Double Throw.". This means that the middle contact (30) "goes both ways." That is, when at rest, current can go from 30 to 87A if needed

But when the magnet is "energized" and moved down, then the contacts switch between 30 and 87

So you have "Double throw"

If this relay had SIX switch terminals (eight all together) it would be called DPDT for "double pole, double throw."

So let's say you want to run all your "dark blue" 'igniiton run' loads on a relay. You would CUT the "dark blue" which comes OUT of the bulkhead and feeds TO the regulator, and ignition system

You would hook the blue end you cut.........coming from the switch.......and out the bulkhead........to terminal 86. You would ground 85. Now, when you switch on the key, the magnet will come on.

So how to switch the old circuit?

Well, you need POWER. So run a heavy wire, say, no 12, over from the starter relay stud (battery) through a fuse, and to terminal 30.

Hook your other "cut" dark blue ............the end which feeds power TO the regulator, ignition, etc, hook that wire up to terminal 87.

So you turn on the key, the magnet moves, and 30 and 87 become connected.

30 receives power from the starter relay stud, through the fuse, through terminal 30, through the contacts, out 87, and back out to the regulator and ignition system.



relay.jpg
 
terminals 85-86 are the switching post which turn the relay on/off.

ternimals 30 is power in for the actual circuit
87-87a are the output side of the relay

IN the headlight kits, the original wiring, triggered by the headlight switch is plugged into the 85 terminal, 86 goes to ground. That tells the relay to turn on when you hit the headlight switch.

A wire from the battery, alt stud, starter relay lug attaches to the 30 terminal with a fuse in line.

The wires running to the headlights are attached to the 87 terminal.

Look at a relay schematic, it will be clearer.
 
Wow, all that makes total sense to me! Ok, so if I want to put my ignition on a relay, were would I install the relay? Would it be on the red heavy wire from the starter relay to the column? Which dont make sense to me since that is already a relay. Im assuming it would it be one of the other wires? There are so many different wires from the column I wouldnt know what one to use. The headlights, and other items I think I could figure out now that I understand how a relay works. Its that damn double connector stuff on the column
 

Attachments

I do have those actual manuals, but none of them were close to my car. I could have been wrong on the C body, it was last spring when I was dealing with the old wiring. But it definitely was not a A body diagram. The column harness was the only part I was looking at and it was dead on to my car.
 
So on my column the original wire that burnt off was the large red wire, which when going thru the fire wall I believe was the fusable link wire also. If I remember correctly that wire goes to the starter relay. So if that is already run thru a relay why is there such a load on the column connector causing it to melt and fail at the connector?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Similar threads

canyncarvr
Ballast wiring
Replies
21
Views
695
oldkimmer
O
Miranthis
Electrical connectors for 66 model year
Replies
6
Views
600
Firstblood
Firstblood
F
Firewall Bulkhead Connectors
Replies
6
Views
542
fastdart69
F
R
1973 Scamp turn signal switch
Replies
8
Views
343
67Dart273
67Dart273
T
Whats the push-on connector for the fuel sender, or thread size?
Replies
4
Views
197
halifaxhops
halifaxhops
Back
Top Bottom