Mopar 350 Stroker

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Technically if wanted to spend less options on money then I have to get a Chevy 350 which is cheap to build. Being that not an option yet 2 Mopar 318 engines are gonna have to do at the moment.
ok. Have fun. You keep digging the hole of ignorance. We're trying to help you here, but you have to let us. You're not. So, cya.
 
so you'd rather throw good money after bad in a questionable build that is clearly out of your depth and skill set?

i mean, i'm not one to stop you but maybe you should have a sit and think about WHY that **** was pieced out. good motors don't just get taken apart and not put back together again for no reason.

you want knowledge and experience about these kinda builds? you're gonna find that here not on yew-toob or the farkbook pages.

you wanna go drag racing? you wanna do it cheap and easy? 5.9 mag, heads, intake, reground cam there's 400hp fallin' outta bed. add a 150 shot of laughing gas if you're feeling saucy.

that concrete filled block with question mark parts is a loser from every angle. it's magic beans, man. don't get duped into dropping a ton of cash into it.
 
Technically if wanted to spend less options on money then I have to get a Chevy 350 which is cheap to build. Being that not an option yet 2 Mopar 318 engines are gonna have to do at the moment.
If you don't want a 318 or 360 Magnum
Maybe your better off with a LS from a truck. Way better than a 350........
 
If you don't want a 318 or 360 Magnum
Maybe your better off with a LS from a truck. Way better than a 350........
No offense but everyone and their brother uses an LS, Coyote, Hellcat's, and 360 Magnum's I don't want what everyone and their brother builds. Mopar 318, 340's, and 360 LA's, 400's, 426 Hemi's, 440's, Chevrolet 350's, 383 Strokers, & 454's, Ford 302's, 351W &C, FE's Ford 429's and Ford 460's are my go to engines. Not sorry but I stand on that.
 
Being different is one thing, thinking doing two things wrong makes a right is another.
I am done here. Have fun
Yeah so am I as I am done thinking I need to explain why I chose the Mopar 318 LA. Again peace out ✌️. Maybe you guys can force your 5.9 Magnum's, LS, Coyote, and Hellcat engines on someone else.
 
Yeah so am I as I am done thinking I need to explain why I chose the Mopar 318 LA. Again peace out ✌️. Maybe you guys can force your 5.9 Magnum's, LS, Coyote, and Hellcat engines on someone else.

Then don’t ***** about the cost of building a 318. You can make power with one but you ain’t buying an off the shelf piston.
 
Question on the parts, again. Did main caps for the white block come with it? And what brand are those rods? They look like good pieces. Being that this is all custom work, it’s possible the previous builder has ground the big ends of the rods to .925 width from .940 (.0075/side) and had the big ends honed out for 2.1 to 2.125 bearings (.0125 per side) which would allow using LA Mopar rod bearings after dressing the tang registers depth back in. It would be worth measuring them with the dial calipers to see if they have been modified in that manner. I don’t hate the idea of your using parts for a drag only kind of build, but I would want to sonic check the cylinder thickness above the cement. If you wanted to put an all Chrysler rotating assembly in, then here are your pistons for high compression with enough valve pocket for whatever cam you decide on.
KB KB399KTM.060 KB Performance Hyper Piston and Ring Kits | Summit Racing
 
The point is I don't need to be like everyone and their brother.
We all have the ability to enjoy engines that we like.
look man, you don't know me from the man in the moon but i'm honestly trying to help you here.

undertaking a build like this is daunting even for those of us who have tread that rocky path before. i like wacky **** and i've certainly built my fair share of it, but even this *waves hands vaguely* screams of bad news on every level.

if you really want to forge ahead with this understand that you'll need three things: a friendly relationship with a competent machinist, intimate engine building knowledge and a pile of money.

this isn't just something that "comes together" because "so-and-so said they did [blank]" back in the day. don't believe me? tomorrow's monday, ring up a few machine shops and ask how much to cut a 360 crank down for 318 mains and chevy rods, and to balance the assembly. the responses may shock you. hint: nobody is gonna wanna do it, and those that will are going to want an absolute MINT to do so.

if you're dead set on using that 318 block, go get you a 390 stroker kit for it. a street/strip assembly will run you about 2K and a more competition version is about 2500. that'll put you in a much better position than any homebrewed bullshit chevy rod custom piston nonsense.
 
Question on the parts, again. Did main caps for the white block come with it? And what brand are those rods? They look like good pieces. Being that this is all custom work, it’s possible the previous builder has ground the big ends of the rods to .925 width from .940 (.0075/side) and had the big ends honed out for 2.1 to 2.125 bearings (.0125 per side) which would allow using LA Mopar rod bearings after dressing the tang registers depth back in. It would be worth measuring them with the dial calipers to see if they have been modified in that manner. I don’t hate the idea of your using parts for a drag only kind of build, but I would want to sonic check the cylinder thickness above the cement. If you wanted to put an all Chrysler rotating assembly in, then here are your pistons for high compression with enough valve pocket for whatever cam you decide on.
KB KB399KTM.060 KB Performance Hyper Piston and Ring Kits | Summit Racing
I sent you a message.
 
Yeah so am I as I am done thinking I need to explain why I chose the Mopar 318 LA. Again peace out ✌️. Maybe you guys can force your 5.9 Magnum's, LS, Coyote, and Hellcat engines on someone else.
You didn't choose a 318 LA. You chose someone's pile of left over parts that is mismatched junk. You've got probably 150 collective years of experience here in this thread telling that you are making a mistake. It's not about the 318. They're great. It's about your parts. Good luck with it. You're going to end up just like that youtube guy you're following along and end up with a bunch of broken junk, instead of just junk.
 
look man, you don't know me from the man in the moon but i'm honestly trying to help you here.

undertaking a build like this is daunting even for those of us who have tread that rocky path before. i like wacky **** and i've certainly built my fair share of it, but even this *waves hands vaguely* screams of bad news on every level.

if you really want to forge ahead with this understand that you'll need three things: a friendly relationship with a competent machinist, intimate engine building knowledge and a pile of money.

this isn't just something that "comes together" because "so-and-so said they did [blank]" back in the day. don't believe me? tomorrow's monday, ring up a few machine shops and ask how much to cut a 360 crank down for 318 mains and chevy rods, and to balance the assembly. the responses may shock you. hint: nobody is gonna wanna do it, and those that will are going to want an absolute MINT to do so.

if you're dead set on using that 318 block, go get you a 390 stroker kit for it. a street/strip assembly will run you about 2K and a more competition version is about 2500. that'll put you in a much better position than any homebrewed bullshit chevy rod custom piston nonsense.
Don't forget the counterweights. Can the 360 crank fit the 318 block with stock sized counterweights? I don't believe so, if memory serves me right, so there's more money.
 
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Don't forget the counterweights. Can the 360 crank fit the 318 block with stock sized counterweights? I don't believe so, if memory serves me right, so there more money.
The oem LA 3.58 stroke crankshaft counterweight definitely won’t clear the piston skirt of the 318 slugs.

RRR is explaining that the power per dollar ratio is excessive when the combination is someone’s hypothesis.

If you’re determined to go this route expect a 2:1 expense per HP ratio. Vrs. An .80:1 to 1.25:1 for a 5.9 build.

If your following FABO you’ll notice that the competitive builders have mostly refrained from commenting on your combination.

The few that have lent you reasonable advice know their S*** because they came to build successfully on a working man’s budget.

Attached are two photos of a 318 combination fielded at Indianapolis. Impressive, yes. Exotic even more. It was constructed with support from Chrysler corporation and STP money. Not a working man’s wrenching in his garage.

IMG_4445.jpeg


IMG_4446.jpeg
 
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Don't forget the counterweights. Can the 360 crank fit the 318 block with stock sized counterweights? I don't believe so, if memory serves me right, so there's more money.
block fits fine, it's the pistons that interfere. and with aftermarket pistons it's a who knows guessing game. i know with "stock" pistons it's something like .125~.2 off the counters-- but only 6 of them? i think. it's been... awhile...

or you just cough up for this puppy and damn the torpedoes:


(hint the torpedoes are gonna be a high dollar balance job and the expensive bearings for the fully fillet journals)
 
You didn't choose a 318 LA. You chose someone's pile of left over parts that is mismatched junk. You've got probably 150 collective years of experience here in this thread telling that you are making a mistake. It's not about the 318. They're great. It's about your parts. Good luck with it. You're going to end up just like that youtube guy you're following along and end up with a bunch of broken junk, instead of just junk.
He should contact Uncle Tony be right up. His alley
 
1st you need to measure your parts correctly and exact!! then you can determine what it was built to and weather it had a 3.58 crank or a 3.31 crank or some one off custom stroke!! as it is 10 pages now and nobody has a clue what it was exactly!! theres 3.58 cranks you can buy new to fit 318/340 block cheaper than cost of machining a stock 360 crank! theres high end race cranks with journals sized fr them rods and off set grinding a crank for them rods is doabile to, but until you measure it all out exactly ya dont know what to do!!! are the pistons forged or hypothermic or cast?? what kinda shape are the bores?? them pistons are useless if block need boring!!
 
There are modifications that are usually needed to use a roller cam in a 318 block, like tubing the lifter galley or bushing the lifter bores. I would inspect the block for any modifications before proceeding
 
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