Mopar purple .528 for a 383?

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rumblefish360 said:
Just my opinion here, your a half point to a full point of compression down and that’s the wrong intake to use with the small cam. IMO, a RPM should be used.
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Which intake is wrong, the DP4B or the trick flow? The dp4b came up really close to the rpm in the manifold shootout. The trick flow is on hand and will go on for ***** and giggles purposes. If it’s a dog it will go back on the shelf. Unless someone wants to trade me a tunnel ram for it.
 
MidnightSwinger said:
Once I finally crack into it, I’ll shoot for 10:1 with the 906’s and more when I can afford a good aluminum head. It could be there now, the motor is a real HP that’s been “rebuilt” and passed a few hands before I inherited it. I won’t be surprised to find it at 9.5 but I wouldn’t be surprised if it was 8:1 lol
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I think the HP was rated at 10.25. But of course as we're all aware, they blueprinted less. Still though, pretty formidable. 425LBFT stock ain't nuthin to sneeze at. I would think if you get it to an honest 10.1 I wouldn't advance it any more than what the card says. At maybe about 9:1 I might think about a few more degrees. JMO.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I think the HP was rated at 10.25. But of course as we're all aware, they blueprinted less. Still though, pretty formidable. 425LBFT stock ain't nuthin to sneeze at. I would think if you get it to an honest 10.1 I wouldn't advance it any more than what the card says. At maybe about 9:1 I might think about a few more degrees. JMO.
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Im very hopeful that the compression is decent, it’s got at the other HP goodies. I think your thought process is solid, advancing the cam might help if the compression is lower than ideal. Should work pretty well otherwise.

I’m looking forward to the first WOT 2-3rd powershift. Should be a hoot.
 
MidnightSwinger said:
Im very hopeful that the compression is decent, it’s got at the other HP goodies. I think your thought process is solid, advancing the cam might help if the compression is lower than ideal. Should work pretty well otherwise.

I’m looking forward to the first WOT 2-3rd powershift. Should be a hoot.
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No doubt about it. The 383 IMO gets a bad rap like the 318. But both can haul the mail.
 
That cam is a good choice for what you want + 3.91 gears. Since you don't care about low end, a single plane intake will work better with the duration that cam has.
 
Bewy said:
That cam is a good choice for what you want + 3.91 gears. Since you don't care about low end, a single plane intake will work better with the duration that cam has.
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You’re reading my mind. I have some experience with hopped up 4 cylinders and you learn how to drive without low end torque quickly.

Since I have both intakes I think it will be fun to run them back to back on the street for some real world results. My feeling is that I won’t notice a need for more low end torque with 383 cubes in a 3400lb car with 3.91 gears. But this is my first big block a body and only time will tell.
 
The 3.91s and four speed will allow you to run any intake you want.
But good points were raised about c.r. You really don't know what pistons are in it aft3r all this time.
( I think I have used five different single plane intakes vs two, whoops, one dual plane. But my cars have 3.91s and 4.10s)
 
I wish I could find a 528 for my current slant 6 build. lol
 
MidnightSwinger said:
Which intake is wrong, the DP4B or the trick flow? The dp4b came up really close to the rpm in the manifold shootout. The trick flow is on hand and will go on for ***** and giggles purposes. If it’s a dog it will go back on the shelf. Unless someone wants to trade me a tunnel ram for it.
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OH! I was making a red to the TF single plane. The older DP4B would be my choice. If you’re capable, port match it as deep as possible. That’ll help a bit. Also, I do belief a combo spacer up top would be another small helping hand. If it fits under the hood.
33IMP said:
The 3.91s and four speed will allow you to run any intake you want.
But good points were raised about c.r. You really don't know what pistons are in it aft3r all this time.
( I think I have used five different single plane intakes vs two, whoops, one dual plane. But my cars have 3.91s and 4.10s)
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I’m still with a rpm on this. The gear ratios listed will certain wake up the car. The nice thing about those gears and the single plane is once it starts to rpm, it’s gonna feel really good upstairs.
 
I'm with you Rumble. Every test I've ever seen says the rpm is a terrific street manifold. I just have never acquired one, whereas the single planes seem to find me (cheap!) Have used a original torker, two TM-7s (one modded for max heads, $75, ) currently a Team G ($150), also got a M1 dominator ($80). Last manifold I bought new was a super Victor dominator, and it's now $100 more than I paid.
 
rumblefish360 said:
OH! I was making a red to the TF single plane. The older DP4B would be my choice. If you’re capable, port match it as deep as possible. That’ll help a bit. Also, I do belief a combo spacer up top would be another small helping hand. If it fits under the hood.

I’m still with a rpm on this. The gear ratios listed will certain wake up the car. The nice thing about those gears and the single plane is once it starts to rpm, it’s gonna feel really good upstairs.
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I’ve never ported an intake before, but maybe the dp4b can be my first. I have room for a 2” spacer maybe with the DP4B, 1” for sure.

I’m gonna get the pig running after the 4 speed swap with the DP4B. Then I’ll do the cam/lifter swap, start with the DP4B again and try the trick flow. If the trick flow isn’t where it is at, I’ll port the DP4B and run it.

I appreciate your input, and I’m not at all opposed to the RPM, I know it’s the best dual plane available for the BBM. I just don’t want to pay full price for it hahaha.
 
Combo spacer is a good idea.
Engine masters did a spacer test. Basic results: use an open spacer on a dual plane, four hole on a single plane.
Your results may vary, lol.
And, imo, the small improvement of an RPM over a DP4B will not be worth full-boat retail $$$.
 
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33IMP said:
The 3.91s and four speed will allow you to run any intake you want.
But good points were raised about c.r. You really don't know what pistons are in it aft3r all this time.
( I think I have used five different single plane intakes vs two, whoops, one dual plane. But my cars have 3.91s and 4.10s)
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Exactly, that’s why I made that clear up front. I never saw a build sheet for the rebuild, and I haven’t personally measured anything…yet. So I don’t want to pretend it’s ideal and end up with a dog.

My plan is to pull the heads when I do the cam swap and measure everything. Hopefully I’m at a true 10:1, should be a screamer for a stock stroke 383 with the .528.

Thanks for all the input fellas, it always informative knocking around my ideas with y’all.
 
I'd seen several times that this cam had good vacuum for power brakes and could be used with AC. there are some on You Tube, they don't sound to radical.
 
I'm likin the DP4B for this. The RPM "might" be better, but I sure wouldn't buy one if I had the DP4B.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'm likin the DP4B for this. The RPM "might" be better, but I sure wouldn't buy one if I had the DP4B.
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Looks good all painted up too

70571002011__4BB2E296-A593-4E19-98FD-92D7DF2A40F4.jpeg
 
33IMP said:
I'm with you Rumble. Every test I've ever seen says the rpm is a terrific street manifold. I just have never acquired one, whereas the single planes seem to find me (cheap!) Have used a original torker, two TM-7s (one modded for max heads, $75, ) currently a Team G ($150), also got a M1 dominator ($80). Last manifold I bought new was a super Victor dominator, and it's now $100 more than I paid.
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What single plane is your personal favorite?
 
Seriously though, the crossram was no faster than this modded TM7, and I don't have enough cylinder head (yet) to use the turquoise one.
My favorite WILL be the SV, when the victor head 522 is together .

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When you get that thing tore down measure how far down the pistons are in the bore. We can figure out how much to mill and I can do them for you on a weekend day, unless it's cheaper there, than just gas money to come over here.
 
Just wanted to chime in regarding your carb choice, a Street Demon might not work too well with that cam especially on a single-plane intake. If you already have the carb it's worth a shot but if not I'd suggest something better suited to hotter engines with low idle vacuum (Holley DP??) as that's what I assume a 383 with a .528 Purple Shaft will behave like. I'm running a 750 cfm Street Demon on the 360 SB in my Duster with ported Edelbrock heads, 9:1 comp, RPM non-Air Gap intake and custom-grind .548" lift cam with 274/278 adv. duration, 222/226 @ .050 and it's kinda borderline in terms of tunability and fuel delivery for the combo.

EDIT: forgot to mention it's a hydraulic roller cam hence the high lift relative to duration, in case you were curious
 
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MopaR&D said:
Just wanted to chime in regarding your carb choice, a Street Demon might not work too well with that cam especially on a single-plane intake. If you already have the carb it's worth a shot but if not I'd suggest something better suited to hotter engines with low idle vacuum (Holley DP??) as that's what I assume a 383 with a .528 Purple Shaft will behave like. I'm running a 750 cfm Street Demon on the 360 SB in my Duster with ported Edelbrock heads, 9:1 comp, RPM non-Air Gap intake and custom-grind .548" lift cam with 274/278 adv. duration, 222/226 @ .050 and it's kinda borderline in terms of tunability and fuel delivery for the combo.
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I was only going to try it for testing purposes to see how the two manifolds stack up. But the whole build just took a 180 as I found a screaming deal on a set of aluminum heads.

So I will be selling(this is not an ad Mike)the street demon, dp4b and 906’s and putting that money towards a carburetor. I’m not sure what carb I’m going with yet…. the ever evolving build.

Now the cam will be the limitation, but I have to stop the madness so I can actually drive this thing one day. I’m committed to the .528 at this point. My whole build is centered around all the cool **** that makes Mopar awesome. So the old school mopar cam fits the build, and should sound wicked with the Hedman long tubes and Dynomax ultra flos.
 
MidnightSwinger said:
I was only going to try it for testing purposes to see how the two manifolds stack up. But the whole build just took a 180 as I found a screaming deal on a set of aluminum heads.

So I will be selling(this is not an ad Mike)the street demon, dp4b and 906’s and putting that money towards a carburetor. I’m not sure what carb I’m going with yet…. the ever evolving build.

Now the cam will be the limitation, but I have to stop the madness so I can actually drive this thing one day. I’m committed to the .528 at this point. My whole build is centered around all the cool **** that makes Mopar awesome. So the old school mopar cam fits the build, and should sound wicked with the Hedman long tubes and Dynomax ultra flos.
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Nice what kind of aluminum heads? Regardless of brand/type they should have smaller closed chambers than the 906s which will give you a nice bump in compression and much better knock resistance. The Edelbrocks on my 360 are the "open" chamber (more like recessed closed chamber) versions intended for positive-deck 340 pistons but I'm running them on a 5.9L Magnum short block with stock pistons .050" below deck. I've accidentally had the initial+mechanical advance as high as 44 degrees BTDC (on 85-octane regular gas at 5000' elevation) and not once did I ever hear pinging. No shiny specks on the plugs either. I currently run 87-octane regular pump gas near sea level with 36 degrees and it screams with no signs of detonation.

On the other hand the 360 in my D200 pickup has stock open-chamber iron heads and stock cam with around 8.2:1 compression and that will ping when it's hot out with the total advance at 32 degrees, go figure. I'm about to put a colder (180-degree) thermostat in it to help with that.
 
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