Mopar's stock rockers

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Richie

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Hi everybody:

I was wondering if I could get some opinions on Mopar's stock rockers for a 340 with a little over 400 hp. I guess they're reliable because I've a ton of engines using them.
 
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Big cam with high spring pressure will fatigue them. I referring to the stamped steel rockers. 65'
 
I have seen the pushrods pop through them on stock 318's. Mopar performance ones were a little thicker in the pushrod area. Are these even still available now?
 
If you have good ones in good shape it's a pretty slick setup pretty much Bulletproof keep spring pressure below 300 lb and total lift around 500 you won't have any problems. They will take more than that but it's probably time to upgrade after that
 
My dad and I have ran stock rockers on 360's and 440 for many years. Used them on many different cams, but the biggest was the Mopar .533 cam in both the 360 and 440. Shifted the motors at 6,000, went thru the traps 62-6400. I never had an issue. I think my dad had 2 or 3 push the pushrod thru the rocker over the years. Just inspect the rockers and make sure they are good and where the pushrod sit it isn't extra bulged and you should be fine.
 
I should note that the only ones I have seen pushrods push through were stock high mileage engines. I always used MP replacement rockers on my builds and never had a problem. Never ran a cam over .508, would probably go roller at that point.
 
I have seen the pushrods pop through them on stock 318's. Mopar performance ones were a little thicker in the pushrod area. Are these even still available now?
I have had 2 different 318s do exactly that. I still run them tho.
 
If you have good ones in good shape it's a pretty slick setup pretty much Bulletproof keep spring pressure below 300 lb and total lift around 500 you won't have any problems. They will take more than that but it's probably time to upgrade after that
I'm less than that. 488/491
 
you will be fine with the stock rockers. I used them with the 510 purple shaft for years never a problem. I just broke a roller pin on my roller rockers and look back over at my box of stock rockers on the Shelf, one more break and my stock rockers will be going back on.
 
Ok that's good ..The car should be on the road in a month..The motor's all done just the drive shaft exhaust and brake lines
 
I used stock rockers also in the .550 range a few times and many times .525
same way with iron rockers to .600
back when roller rockers were unreliable with several customers loosing expensive motors to needles
I like iron rockers
but with stamped rockers if I went to more lift I tried to get customers to spring for new heavier pushrods
why ?
because the balls wear into the rocker and create their own little cup with a little ridge around it
the doughnut
then with more lift the pushrod has to ride over the ridge
LOTS OF PRESSURE and more with more rocker ratio and more with big spring x the rocker ratio
I like AMC / Magnum lifters and oil through the pushrod for all rockers
another thing with stock rockers and more lift - if you say go +125 over stock lift then stick on a .060 lash cap or else rocker starts of at the stock closed location and all the lift is down. The lash cap tilts the rocker up .060 then 125 down gives you about .060 down- symmetrical
different new lift then different lash cap
prevent what's called "over-arcing"
 
I have seen the pushrods pop through them on stock 318's. Mopar performance ones were a little thicker in the pushrod area. Are these even still available now?
I think Mopar action disproved the thickness myth but they may be better metal? Suppose they are better than 1968 stockers.
 
I've understood Purple cams to be slower lift rate cams.... Higher lift rate cams are gonna put more force on the pushrod seat in the rocker. So be aware of that.

At least when they do fail, it is rarely anything more than the pushrod and rocker damaged. Put on a new one... keep rolling.
 
Mancini has their own version of thicker stamped rocker arms and proform came out with some also. Jegs carries them.
 
good to know quick
IMHO the pushrod and shoe need to run with their centers about where stock was
not pointed up and not pointed down
keeps the pushrod from going out of the cup
and the shoe going off the tip or out of the hardness range should be obvious
you have to adj the shaft height or valve length then get correct length pushrods
and with longmopar pushrods get good ones
 
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