Hello everyone. This is the first 340 I have ever pulled out and I want to make sure I'm doing the last step correctly. This 340 is out of a 73 roadrunner. I am the point where I am removing the motor mount bolts/nuts. I just want to make sure, are these the only 2 bolts/nuts that need to be removed from both sides? I was able to get one on the driver side but the other one on the driver side is gonna be very difficult to get to. If these are the 2 correct bolts, any tips on how to get the other one? I can't fit a socket from the side I took a pic on. Thank you all!
Motor Mount Bolt Removal
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
why not leave the brackets bolted to the block, remove the large bolt below (in the pic) and pull the motor with it's brackets still attached? one bolt each side, much easier.
neil.
neil.
. I'll go ahead and remove that large bolt on both sides. Thank you!
mygasser
Well-Known Member
most 'classic' v8's of any brand have one bolt each side to pull the motor.
neil.
neil.
Scody21
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Make sure that the bracket goes back on the same side of the ear when it goes back in. It will throw off the motor placement if it’s put on differently.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
agreed and that's where modern phone cameras come in handy. reference pics are always worth taking if you've not done a particular job before.
neil.
Scody21
Just send it
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Yep, we take a ton of photos of the race cars that come into my brothers shop. We’re putting one back together that was crashed in ‘21. It would be a pain without all the pics…
doug 371
Well-Known Member
You dont need to take the bolt out. Loosen it enough to make both washers clear the ears, Find a pic of a bare spool mount k frame to reference
Mr. Sinister
Devastation Manager/ Exposer of Lies
If you are going to remove the motor get everything else ready first and get the cherry picker hooked to the motor first, lift the motor a little to make it easier, loosen the large nuts at the front of the mount while holding a wrench on the head of the bolt, don’t let the bolts spin, it ruins the ears on the shaft of the bolt. Lift the motor a little more and tap the bolts to the rear of the car until the washers clear the frame mount bracket.
Yes now I realize that the bolt sits in a "u shaped" motor mount bracket so it just needs to be loosened a bit until the washers are free. Thank you!
Correct. That long bolt just sits in "slots" in the K frame brackets. Nuthin to it.
Yes, much simpler than I expected. Thanks!
Before I pull the engine, does the trans need to be supported in any way? I haven’t removed anything holding the trans like the mount or any braces but I figured I’d still ask just to be sure. Thanks everyone!
mygasser
Well-Known Member
auto or manual? but yes either way. if auto don't forget the flex plate to convertor bolts so the convertor stays in the trans'. support with a trolley jack while pulling the motor, then tie a rope under the bellhousing to something like the hood hinges to support the trans' weight until you refit the motor. i always bend a 6-8" bit of flat bar and bolt one end to a bellhousing bolt hole with the other end pressing against the convertor. that'll stop it slipping out and leaking fluid all over the floor.
neil.
neil.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Yes, pull the starter, dust shield, flex plate to converter bolts, strut braces from engine to bell housing, support the transmission with a block of wood on a floor jack under the trans pan, then remove the bell housing bolts. Once the engine is out, and if you need to move the car around, strap/wire the transmission up close to the firewall and run a bracket across the bell housing to prevent the converter from coming out. You may want to install a new converter seal while your at it, but, do that right before you re-install the engine. You can see why it's better to pull (drop) the engine and trans together along with the K-member and suspension if this is going to be a restoration.
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