Motor mount- i know this aint right. Right?

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No that washer is not supposed to be under the bracket. Makes me wonder why they did that. The mount doesn't look like it has collasped.
 
No isolator. Using a straight bolt is going to move the motor around. It might be a problem if a fan shroud is used. A '72 mount is shown for reference.
 

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2 Darts said:
No isolator. Using a straight bolt is going to move the motor around. It might be a problem if a fan shroud is used. A '72 mount is shown for reference.
Click to expand...

That isn't a bolt that is a pair of washer between the mount and the bracket. What looks like the head of a bolt is really just the stud with no exposed threads.
 
mcnoople said:
That isn't a bolt that is a pair of washer between the mount and the bracket. What looks like the head of a bolt is really just the stud with no exposed threads.
Click to expand...

XS2. it looks like they jacked up that side a 1/2 inch or so for some reason. i wonder if the other side is like that.
 
The other side has a couple if pieces of wood and no rubber spacer
 
slant is still running correct!! indestructible!!!


probably has a later style slant in a 60-66 car-- the oil pan hit --so they raised the motor a bit to clear?


http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=209626

link is your car, the motor in the trunk has the correct oil pan. the engine powering your vehicle is from a later auto, most likely the oil pan hit the center link-- very common with the 60-66 cars.

your car looks very clean!! congrats


Lawrence
 
If you swap oil pans, you will probably need to use the original oil pickup as well. For new poly motor mounts see http://www.polybushings.com IIRC, slantsix.org had a group buy on them - I bought 2 sets for my 65 A Bodies.
 
That looks like the correct driver's side mount. Of course the passenger side block of wood isn't correct. My 64 had a spacer added on the passenger side (worn brake caliper). I got rid of it and ordered new mounts, insuring they were the correct PN, but the engine leans too much so the distributor is too close to the inner fender, so I guess I will just add a spacer back. It couldn't go much lower on the driver's side or the oil pan flange would sit on the K-member.
 
Same issue I have with my '64 Valiant. The stock replacement mounts are simply too short. I had to do some spacing with washers to gain exhaust pipe clearance from the torsion bar, and it still isn't enough, but the molded-in studs are too short to use more spacers.

The way it now sits, the power steering pump pulley clears the frame by less than 1/4", and there is virtually no clearance on the distributor side. The mount needs to be about 1/2" taller.

FWIW, the new poly mounts are even shorter than the stock replacements, so the problem would be even worse with them.

Once I move into my new shop, I'm going to work on a resolution.
 
1963 Signet /6

Got it over from Ca last year. Has a '65 225 in it, checked with the PO and he put that engine in from a wrecked car.
When I got to snooping around I noticed that the oil pan was almost right on the K frame. In fact I had felt it bump a couple of times when driving.

I checked the engine mounts and both were shot but when I put replacements on the pan clearance wasn't much better. I then put spacers on each side to give me pan clearance.

So maybe my problem is that the oil pan is wrong????
Should I be tracking down a '63 oil pan???


Sorry I don't mean to hijack your thread man - just having a similar problem to you ( like the other blokes on here). Following this thread with interest.
THANKS.
 
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