Motorhome carb size?

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BWDart

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Looking to replace the Q-jet on my motorhome. It has a 454 chev pulling 15,000 lbs. What size Holley would work best 750 or should I go bigger?
Mileage is not a factor as it only gets 8-10 mpg now.
I believe the Q-jet is 750.
Thanks Bruce
 
Quadrajet carbs came in many different CFM sizes so I wouldn't say for sure it is a 750 Carb, unless you have some evidence.
My experience with a Holley 650 Spreadbore replacement carb has been very positive. They are an exact fit replacement so the fuel inlet, throttle attachment etc are direct hook up, BUT the spreadbore Holley is a double pumper carb. They run FANTASTIC with the factory cast iron intake manifold.

Good Luck!!

George
 
I have a 650 spreadbore which was on my 318 with a 360 spreadbore intake, it ran ok but when I replaced it with a 600 squarebore it runs many time better, better response and alot more power. I read where the holley spreadbore doesn't have a transition circuit coming off idle. Is that true?
 
I have a 650 spreadbore which was on my 318 with a 360 spreadbore intake, it ran ok but when I replaced it with a 600 squarebore it runs many time better, better response and alot more power. I read where the holley spreadbore doesn't have a transition circuit coming off idle. Is that true?
I really don't know the answer to that question, sorry.
I do know that the stock Mopar intake isn't going to make good power with a spreadbore carb as the bores aren't the same, and the adaptor will KILL performance.
It will, however, make a LOT of torque on a stock Chevy iron intake. If you already have a spreadbore Holley, drop it on and try it! Ya have nothing to lose!

George
 
what's wrong with the q-jet? Some of them flow around 830+ cfm in stock form depending upon use. I'd just throw a rebuild kit into it unless the throttle shafts are gone.
 
64dartwagon what's wrong with the q-jet? Some of them flow around 830+ cfm in stock form depending upon use. I'd just throw a rebuild kit into it unless the throttle shafts are gone.


Where can I get throttle shaft bushings if they are bad. I have a book on rebuilding the Q-jets but that guy wants $250 to rebuild one.
 
Most local carb shops charge around $65 ish. And you can find online carb serv's for about the same price.
 
Don't know about the transition circuit. However, I do know that when you reduce the carburetor cfm, throttle reponse improves at the expense of top end.

Here's the word from Summit. I have found the formula to be good.

The first thing to consider here is the cfm that you will need for your engine. There's a simple formula available that will put you right in the cfm ball park. The formula for naturally aspirated gasoline engines is:

Engine Size (c.i.d.) X Maximum rpm/3,456=cfm@100 percent Volumetric Efficiency (VE)

Example: 350 c.i.d. X 6,000 rpm=2,100,000/3,456=608 cfm

Approximately 608 cfm would be required for this engine. However, most street engines are capable of achieving only about 80 percent VE; a modified street engine with ported heads, headers, good intake, and carburetor can achieve about 85 percent VE; a fully modified race engine can achieve 95 percent or greater VE. The cfm number arrived at with this formula must be factored by this percentage.

Next, you need to decide if a vacuum secondary or a mechanical secondary carburetor will best fill your bill. As a rule of thumb, vacuum secondary carburetors work best on the following:
- Relatively heavy vehicles
- Street gearing
- Automatic transmission
- Engines built more for low-end torque

Conversely, mechanical secondary carburetors seem to work best on:
- Relatively light vehicles
- Strip gearing (4.11 or numerically higher)
- Manual transmission
- Engines built more for top-end horsepower
 
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