Mounting a degree wheel

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1930

1930

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Anyone here done it to a slant, Id like to find one of the quick disconnect deals that I see are offered for popular other makes, it allows the wheel to spin if need be with only a quick spin of a coupler.

Also ..... The biggest issue will be getting the degree wheel tight. Since the end of the crank is recessed into the pulley, that poses a little bit of a problem, but nothing that cannot be overcome. You will need a bolt long enough so you can put a nut on it behind the degree wheel so you can put the wheel on the bolt first, tighten it up good and then screw it into the crank...........

What other ideas are out there, what are you people doing to mount your degree wheels to your engines.

I went to 3 stores today to try and find hardware to make up something ( as mentioned above ) and struck out. Its looking like Ill have to special order a 3/4 16 bolt long enough if I choose to go that route.

Sounds like alot of B.S Id rather just buy something off the shelf made to do the job if that is possible.
 
I make my own pointer out of a coat hanger and use a nearby loose bolt hole to hold it in with.

Then you can just readjust the degree wheel or the pointer to 0 when you find TDC.
 
You dont mount a degree wheel, you just put one on to degree it as you have to move it anyway once you find TDC. Are you looking for a permanent solution? Drill and tap a crank bolt for a stud and just bolt it on when you need it. Leave it snug enough to move it if you have to. Youll have to use a 1 1/4 open end wrench to turn your crank though after its chucked up.
 
My guess

Remove the V pulley

Get what here at our "Fasteners" is called a "flat plate washer." These are a big diameter washer that is VERY thick.

Indeed, get a long stud or bolt. You need a spacer or washer that will sit on the outside of the dampener and space the degree wheel out in such a way to make a sandwich, so that the wheel is not warped.

Another source might be to experiment with short "close" pipe nipples or even steel pipe couplers, one that the bolt will go through, and which will seat on the end of the crank. The wheel would then go to the front of that. Use appropriate flat washers on each side to protect the wheel and to add surface area

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pishta said:
You dont mount a degree wheel, you just put one on to degree it as you have to move it anyway once you find TDC. Are you looking for a permanent solution? Drill and tap a crank bolt for a stud and just bolt it on when you need it. Leave it snug enough to move it if you have to. Youll have to use a 1 1/4 open end wrench to turn your crank though after its chucked up.
Click to expand...
Not sure how else I should have phrased it, I need to install a degree wheel so that I can find TDC, degree a cam/check valve phasing.

Nothing permanent, I will get a picture so it is more easily understood.

Here is a discussion over on slant org that addresses the issues I am having. http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=301297&highlight=dampener+bolt

I am hoping there is an easier alternative to getting the wheel in place so I can do what I need to do.

If you look at the last post you will see the grocery list of stuff the guy had to buy to get his degree wheel mounted in place.
 
67Dart273 said:
My guess

Remove the V pulley

Get what here at our "Fasteners" is called a "flat plate washer." These are a big diameter washer that is VERY thick.

Indeed, get a long stud or bolt. You need a spacer or washer that will sit on the outside of the dampener and space the degree wheel out in such a way to make a sandwich, so that the wheel is not warped.

Another source might be to experiment with short "close" pipe nipples or even steel pipe couplers, one that the bolt will go through, and which will seat on the end of the crank. The wheel would then go to the front of that. Use appropriate flat washers on each side to protect the wheel and to add surface area



Click to expand...
Yes, you understood what I was after, thanks for the insight, Ill figure out something. I just cant help but wonder what all the other slanters are doing?
 
I'm no expert on slants. My understanding is, not all of 'em have drilled / tapped cranks. In that case, you'd probably have to mount the wheel to either an adapter to fit the pulley mount, or drill the degree wheel to bolt on in place of the pulley, with appropriate spacer (s)


What he tried to do there is create a sort of clutch, allowing movement of the wheel. This is a waste of time and trouble.

You need to sandwich this all together so the bolt is TIGHT and does not move, so that you can crank the engine, and the wheel doesn't move. Either that, or figure a way to drill the wheel in line with one of the pulley bolts, so you can "key" the wheel.

What I do is to "estimate" where the wheel will be, IE estimate TDC and point TDC on the wheel to wherever your pointer is going to end up. Depending on "what bolt holes" you can use in the water pump, block, head, etc, this is up to you.

I simply bend the pointer. You use the positive stop, and get "both sides" and read those readings. Adjust the pointer by 1/2 the error and check again. It usually takes me 2-3 tries to do this

The LAST thing you want is to "get into the middle of something" and have the pointer, or the wheel, move
 
67Dart273 said:
I'm no expert on slants. My understanding is, not all of 'em have drilled / tapped cranks. In that case, you'd probably have to mount the wheel to either an adapter to fit the pulley mount, or drill the degree wheel to bolt on in place of the pulley, with appropriate spacer (s)


What he tried to do there is create a sort of clutch, allowing movement of the wheel. This is a waste of time and trouble.

You need to sandwich this all together so the bolt is TIGHT and does not move, so that you can crank the engine, and the wheel doesn't move. Either that, or figure a way to drill the wheel in line with one of the pulley bolts, so you can "key" the wheel.

What I do is to "estimate" where the wheel will be, IE estimate TDC and point TDC on the wheel to wherever your pointer is going to end up. Depending on "what bolt holes" you can use in the water pump, block, head, etc, this is up to you.

I simply bend the pointer. You use the positive stop, and get "both sides" and read those readings. Adjust the pointer by 1/2 the error and check again. It usually takes me 2-3 tries to do this

The LAST thing you want is to "get into the middle of something" and have the pointer, or the wheel, move
Click to expand...
Yes, I have recently learned that all slants are threaded on the ends of the cranks for the 3/4 16 bolt, evidently most did not come with this bolt and the threaded holes gets filled up with crap.

Roger on the rest. I think your right.
 
I would chase the crank threads with a tap to clean them out...
 
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