Mounting motor plate.

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Pascamp

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All the motor plates I've dealt with were on purpose built race cars(tube chassis). When installing a motor plate on production frame rails what is the preferred method? Box the top of the rail, and top mount it? Hang it from the inside/vertical surface of the rail? Or hang it from a bar fabbed from the j-bar to the frame rails?

I'm probably over thinking this and any of the above would work. I would prefer to top mount it on the rail just to have an easier time lining things up in the future. Seems much easier that fighting with it hanging in the air. Thanks
 
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All the motor plates I've dealt with were on purpose built race cars(tube chassis). When installing a motor plate on production frame rails what is the preferred method? Box the top of the rail, and top mount it? Hang it from the inside/vertical surface of the rail? Or hang it from a bar fabbed from the j-bar to the frame rails?

I'm probably over thinking this and any of the above would work. I would prefer to top mount it on the rail just to have an easier time lining things up in the future. Seems much easier that fighting with it hanging in the air. Thanks

I top rail mounted mine, made curvy looking L brackets that the plate bolts to, the brackets setting on the frame are bolted thru , top to bottom , with a grade 8 bolts. The top hole in the frame is large enough to slide a sleeve down inside, but the bottom hole is the bolt size, to keep the frame from squashing , or collapsing together. My stroker kit was RACE balanced by Hughs engines, they evidently did a good job on it, I have virtually no vibration at all, with no insulating rubber of any kind. If u didn`t know it had a motor plate , you`d never guess it! .600 lift solid roller , 505" pump gas wedge.
 

I welded 2 tabs with 45* gussets on the back side & through bolted the motor plate.
 
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I top rail mounted mine, made curvy looking L brackets that the plate bolts to, the brackets setting on the frame are bolted thru , top to bottom , with a grade 8 bolts. The top hole in the frame is large enough to slide a sleeve down inside, but the bottom hole is the bolt size, to keep the frame from squashing , or collapsing together. My stroker kit was RACE balanced by Hughs engines, they evidently did a good job on it, I have virtually no vibration at all, with no insulating rubber of any kind. If u didn`t know it had a motor plate , you`d never guess it! .600 lift solid roller , 505" pump gas wedge.
I like your method since the top of the rail is nothing more than sheet metal tack welded to c-chanel.
 
I like your method since the top of the rail is nothing more than sheet metal tack welded to c-chanel.

Been in there for about 7-8 yrs, so far so good !
Since my motor plate is only 1/4' thick, I do have front to rear straps on the front engine, using the 2 of the original motor mount holes, to the frame , (in case I ever to get this car to hook up!).
 
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Cut yourself a couple of pieces of angle iron and bolt them through the frame rail and to the motor plate with grade 8 bolts like in the previous reply. In the pictures these are 1/2" grade 8 bolts.
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