move steering box over, any problems with this?

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Red383

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I’m thinking about moving the steering box mount on my K-frame over towards the frame rail to gain a little exhaust clearance. It will probably move the box over .5”-.75”, maybe 1” max. If I did this, would I see any steering geometry issues? This is using the factory steering box and arm. I’m thinking no, cause the difference could be made up in the tie rods. What do you guys think?

Thanks
 
No one has an opinioin on this?
 
The only potential problems I see are where the steering column ties in to the box and the center link. Don't the steering columns attach straight to the box without a joint or at least a very small one? If you have a decent space between the end of the column and the steering box I would think the joint would be able to take the extra angle, I've seen some pretty sharp bends on some setups. The other thing I would wonder is how the box would tie in to the center link. I would think you would need a custom one that has the pitman arm hole moved over an extra inch so that the pitman and idler arm are both parallel all the time. I'm really just talking off the top of my head though and trying to picture what the setup looks like.
 
There was a local guy that did this to a 69 Cuda he installed a Hemi in, this centered the engine up instead of hacking the passenger fender well. I think he did move the pitman arm hole to the outside, he also mentioned using a longer center link and shortening the left side tie rod adjuster, It's been years since I seen it so I can't remember which way he ended up using.
 
You would need to make the center link longer, shorten the left side tie rod sleeve, use 2 u-joints between the box and column, and of course modify the K-member. That's the good news.

The bad news is you could possibly have some pretty odd bumpsteer. Once you move the inner tie rod pivot point outward, the tie rod will move in a different arc than the lower control arm. If you moved the idler arm out the same amount, at least the right side would behave the same as the left.

This would probably be OK on a drag only race car, but you probably would probably not like the results on the street.
 
I think if you move the Idler arm the same amount, you will have no problems. There is enough adjustment in the tie rods to make up for what you are doing. Let us know how it turns out. btw there is enough "slop" for you to loosen the plate that the steering column mounts to at the firewall to move it that much as well. Great Idea!!!!
 
I think if you move the Idler arm the same amount, you will have no problems. There is enough adjustment in the tie rods to make up for what you are doing.

I think this might work, but you would need a longer drag link, maybe off of a C Body.
 
Well, this is an old thread but it is interesting. So if you cut the mount plate on the K member loose and move it toward the frame rail and perhaps down a bit, you would gain a bunch of exhaust header room right away. If the idler bracket were moved the same amount(s) the tie rods would remain equal lengths. The tie rod pivot points would be unchanged if the same drag link length was maintained and there should be no change to any existing bump steer. The appearance from below would be that the 2 arms would now point slightly inboard at the drag link ends due to the upper ends having been moved outboard 7/10ths. Centering the steering could possibly be corrected by clocking the pitman arm over 1 spline and if there is a master spline you could remove one more spline to allow the move. I understand there are 36 splines so each is 10 degrees and if the arm is 8 inches long this would be .7 inches I think (8X22/7=25.14/36=.6984 inches)
So could one move the box .7 inches toward the frame rail, clock the pitman arm over one spline, move the idler bracket toward the frame .7 inches and have everything left just as is for all other components and gain some clearance for exhaust at the steering box?
Jeff J
 
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