MP .528 Solid Cam Upgrade???

-
A

AR_Tech

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2012
Messages
55
Reaction score
9
Location
America
I have a .528 solid cam in my car now with a 9.5 cr flat tops, ported j heads(self done so might not been that great), 1.5 rocker arms, rpm air gap, 750 pro form main body carb, tti exhaust headers through 3 inch exhaust, 2500 stall convertor, and 904 steep gear set transmission. The car ran a best of 7.89 in the eight mile with some 3.91 gears and 26" tall slicks. I am moving to more of a cruising car than a drag racing car. I put a set of 3.23 gears and the car, so I can ran 75 mph on the interstate. The car has a cracked head now(remember the self porting 10 years ago), so I am looking at buying a closed chamber head and bumping my compression ratio up around 10-10.5:1 depending on which head. I was looking at buying a set of Edelbrock RPM, but it looks like everyone likes the RHS heads from IMM. I figure the higher compression ratio will work well with the cam, because I can run 87 in the car now with no problems. I did a cold cranking pressure before pulling the heads and it was 150 psi. I had to run 91 with the Comp Xtreme Energy 268. The car runs awesome when you open it up, but I wouldn't mine moving the powerband down maybe 500 RPM. You have to start running 2400-2500 RPM before it really starts to "clear up". I have the cam installed straight up. I thought maybe advancing the cam some or possibly going to the small Hughes solid Cam or other brand solid cam. I hear some people saying the MP cams are outdated and others are better; but almost everyone seems to like the .528. Anybody run similar cams and like it better?
 
The single pattern grinds work well with ported heads. If the porting is good, a split pattern is t needed but helpful for more power. The split paten cams were designed to help the iron head, ported or not.

Choose the cam by the duration, it's power band, where it "cruises in" with as much lift as the head can handle. Go on line to a rpm calculator to see at what (on theroy) your cruise rpm is with your tire diameter, gear ratio and a 1-1 trans ratio. Which the MoPars have.

Your cams power band (begining) should be at least 500rpm's below that.
 
Simple.Business, as usual. Buy ,the heads from Brian (IMM)? .Ask the head porter,about the cam choice. He has done the hard work. Hit him up.
 
Put the degree wheel on it. If the cam timing is retarded that could be the whole problem. That 528 is one of the best all around Mopar cams, IMO. It should run well.
 
the close chamber head will help everything, idle, torque, low end, etc...etc...
 
He wants a smaller cam for cruising and Hwy. gears, not help with the current cam.
 
The 150psi was the 9.5:1 and MP .528? Did you degree that cam?
 
My opinion is that unless you start with a degreed cam that's installed on the recommended center line you cannot formulate an educated opinion in which to compare to other camshafts. Degreeing what you have may make you think you have another camshaft installed. You'll never know just doing a blind camshaft swap. Just my opinion. I know nothing.
 
I think the MP should be degreed. You are giving some up IMO now because i'd bet the cam is in retarded. If you want to change you need to know where the pistons are in the bore (deck height) to figure the compression in order to figure out the camshaft to run.
 
moper said:
I think the MP should be degreed. You are giving some up IMO now because i'd bet the cam is in retarded. If you want to change you need to know where the pistons are in the bore (deck height) to figure the compression in order to figure out the camshaft to run.
Click to expand...
Totally agree, that cam if degreeded in properly, should run fine on the street.. ran one for a short while in a 360 and was surprised at how mellow it actually was
 
Its on a wide 112* LSA isnt it ? Thats the one MP cam Ive never heard a bad thing about.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top