MSD 6AL-2, big block. Dodge Dart Wiring

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GJUK

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Hi guys,

I'm in the process of ripping out my old Dizzy, coil, orange ignition box and ignition ballast, to be replaced with a new MSD 6AL-2, Blaster 2, and Distributor The bulkhead connector and wiring was a RIGHT MESS!

I am also re-crimping the bulkhead connector and getting rid of non needed wires. Job so far:

11ki1wh.jpg



Couple of question I hope you can help with.

1) The MSD box has a 12v live feed required, can I use the + on the starter relay as a feed point, my reason for using this point is a Kill switch is just before this junction, allowing me to kill the MSD box when turned off in case of a fire etc.

2) Can I bin the Ignition Ballast? I have a couple of wires left I am not sure what to do with. Can you advise please?


28lc393.jpg


3) I understand the light brown feed to the bulkhead connector is the switched 12v on the ignition, can I used this for the switched 12v on the MSD box?

4) There is a black thick rubbery coated cable which leads to an area on the brake system, near the inner wing. Is this a brake level indicator?


As I understand the MSD ignition is quite self contained, so a lot of the wiring is null and void. As the car has been chopped about a lot (wiring wise) I just want to remove it.

Here are some photos of the wiring mess I had to deal with.

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Cheers,

Jon
 
Also, I've gone through the car and the image below shows how it is wired up at the moment, I can follow the 12v feed through the bulkhead which looks to go around the steering area, wrapped in factory loom. I think it must go to the Amp display?

2dc5xg3.jpg


Anywhere in that I should have fuses guys?

Thinking of a 10 amp between the 12v and MSD box

a large king fuse of ? Amp between the battery+ and kill switch?
 
Others have said

YES you can use the starter relay as a feed point for the MSD "large red." Fuse it if it is not

So far as the ballast. you do not ACTUALLY have to remove it, as there is a tiny load on it to the "small red" on the MSD. Think of it as a 'trigger' wire as in a relay

But if you DO remove it, connect all the wires together and use the old coil+ wire to feed off the the MSD "small red." naturally, if you are cutting, splicing, the old stuff, I'm talking functionally/ electrically rather than strictly electrically.

To understand how the original works:

1.....Dark blue in Mopar talk is "IGN 1" and is "ignition run" voltage. It normally supplies power with "key in run" to the ignition, to the VR, and 70 / later cars, to the alternator field, and sometimes some smog doo-dads.

2.....Brown is "IGN 2" and this goes to the coil + side of the ballast, orginally. You need to realize that the IGN 1 goes DEAD during start. The brown (IGN 2) is the ONLY source of power to the ignition for starting. So if you do away with the ballast, that and the blue must be jumpered IGN2 is hot ONLY in start along with the wire feeding to the start relay Even though both are hot in start, they are actually isolated, separate contacts coming off the ignition switch.

WHAT year model is the car? I missed it if you posted it

PLEASE read this Mad article which, even if you don't do this "mod" gives you very good overview of the primary power distribution:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Also wander over to MyMopar and download a free shop manual if you don't have one. There is lots and lots of other info over there

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
 
You cannot use just the brown wire (IGN2) since it is hot only while cranking. The blue wire (IGN) is only hot in RUN. So, you connect both together and use that. That is the same as bypassing the ballast resistor. Yes, the big stud on the starter relay is the same as BATT+, a direct run over there.

Typical hack jobs under the hood. Somebody decided that molex connectors would be better than the "56 terminal" the factory used. You can clean up your factory bulkhead and buy new terminals for it, if needed. Usually cleaning off corrosion is sufficient. The main need is to give better feeds for the thick ALT and BAT wires. You can run wires straight thru or do the "MAD Bypass" under the hood. Many posts here, enjoy reading.
 
Thank you all.

To clarify with regards to the ballast...

There were two spade connectors running to the ballast, a BLUE cable and a BROWN cable. I connect these both together? Resulting in a 12v at IGN1 and 12v at IGN2 positions. Is this correct?

From the above connected cables, I can run this to my MSD 12v ignition feed (not the permanent heavy red cable but the other 12v feed...)

I put in the connector blocks and chopped out the bulkhead connector, it was totally shot.
 
GJUK said:
I connect these both together? Resulting in a 12v at IGN1 and 12v at IGN2 positions. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Yes. Exactly what I meant by "connect both together and use that".
Many posts on this. Search them so you feel comfortable trying it.
 
Good!! As difficult as "parts" are over here sometimes, must surely be very interestin' "over there."
 
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