MSD 6AL Wiring and Ballast

[Mattax]

OK. When you see some words in a post that are blue and underlined, that's a hyperlink.
If you put your mouse pointer over the hyperlink your browser should show you the url. That way you can be sure its not an advertisement or trick.
In Firefox the URL showls in the bottom left corner of the screen. On a smartphone it may be a little different.
The point is, if you clicked on that link, you won't have to be doing www searches to see the differences.

Do you care if it is visually correct style, or date correct? If so, that's another matter.

 

[rweber254]

OK. When you see some words in a post that are blue and underlined, that's a hyperlink.
If you put your mouse pointer over the hyperlink your browser should show you the url. That way you can be sure its not an advertisement or trick.
In Firefox the URL showls in the bottom left corner of the screen. On a smartphone it may be a little different.
The point is, if you clicked on that link, you won't have to be doing www searches to see the differences.

Do you care if it is visually correct style, or date correct? If so, that's another matter.

got it. Thank you. Style and looks don’t concern me. I’m mainly just interested in performance and everything working. optimally. Again, I appreciate your time and expertise

 

[Mattax]

The dirty secret is that unless you can take an alternator to a shop that will load test at various rpms, or you do the same on the engine, no way to really no what you have. When these things get exchanged for rebuild, some places did and do 'em in batches and mix the parts up. New generic parts often get used as replacements. If what you have on your car is working, call it good.
If the only electric modification to the car is the MSD, that's not going to add more than 1 or 2 amp load at normal street speeds.

The original alternators had matched rotor and stator windings. If they had a high draw rotor, they came with a heavy duty regulator. But now, its all a roulette game. The aftermarket 'new' has a lot of garbage too. They play all sorts of games with names and labelling and 'ratings'.

In theory, a first generation squareback generally should have better output at low rpm. It will mount almost as well as a roundback. However I have isolated field roundback I got a junkyard that I keep on the shelf as a backup. Its only at a stop light on dark rainy nights that you really notice the slightly lower output at idle.

 

[rweber254]

The dirty secret is that unless you can take an alternator to a shop that will load test at various rpms, or you do the same on the engine, no way to really no what you have. When these things get exchanged for rebuild, some places did and do 'em in batches and mix the parts up. New generic parts often get used as replacements. If what you have on your car is working, call it good.
If the only electric modification to the car is the MSD, that's not going to add more than 1 or 2 amp load at normal street speeds.

The original alternators had matched rotor and stator windings. If they had a high draw rotor, they came with a heavy duty regulator. But now, its all a roulette game. The aftermarket 'new' has a lot of garbage too. They play all sorts of games with names and labelling and 'ratings'.

In theory, a first generation squareback generally should have better output at low rpm. It will mount almost as well as a roundback. However I have isolated field roundback I got a junkyard that I keep on the shelf as a backup. Its only at a stop light on dark rainy nights that you really notice the slightly lower output at idle.

Since I have the alternator labeled with 2 fields (1970 and after) rather than 1 field and one labeled ground (pre 1970 I believe)
With the pre 1970 Blue voltage regulator. See pics above of alternators, blue regulator.
Should it work fine? If so, Would the wiring be any different?

 

[Mattax]

I'm having trouble understanding what the issue is.
This

=

Line Voltage is another way of saying system voltage.
The system voltage at the input side of the regulator determines how much current flows through. It switches on or off or through a resistor - sometimes very rapidly.

The current creates an electromagnetic field. Field is shorthand for electromagnetic field.
if you're not famialir with making an electromagnetic with copper wire, look it up, its fun.

 

[rweber254]

I'm having trouble understanding what the issue is.
This
View attachment 1715493980

=

View attachment 1715493981

View attachment 1715493982
Line Voltage is another way of saying system voltage.
The system voltage at the input side of the regulator determines how much current flows through. It switches on or off or through a resistor - sometimes very rapidly.

The current creates an electromagnetic field. Field is shorthand for electromagnetic field.
if you're not famialir with making an electromagnetic with copper wire, look it up, its fun.

Was doing some more research on the internet and found this. Alternator and voltage regulator connections for pre and post 1970. Seems like they are recommending to change to the post 1970 alternator and regulator?