My 315 poly keeps running after everything turned off..

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^^A generator cannot "feed the ignition" unless something is mis-wired. Generally, a generator is connected through regulator, through the VR current relay direct to the battery.

I am assuming here, that the OP actually has a generator and not alternator, as he said he does
 
The way electric fans cause over-run, is that they can coast down, AKA free wheel. The motors are PM (permanent magnet) and act as generators while that is happening, causing power to flow back into the system. If the fan circuit is in parallel with the "run" circuit, it will "run on."

I don't see this happening with a fuel pump unless it's a big pump. that is because the load on the pump will stop it almost immediately
 
OP you keep saying stuff like "It's properly wired" and "I've checked the wiring," but I and others cannot SEE how this is. We do not have documentation on either the original wiring, or how this is actually wired.

I mentioned the starter solenoid, and still think this is a possibility. DOES THE SOLENOID incorporate a ballast bypass circuit? Can you provide a photo of the solenoid, and identify the wires?

How about the ignition, "what" is it and how is it wired? Are you running a ballast (ignition) resistor?

Have you found an online manual or wiring diagram you can link? Is it wired "as per" factory or is this a custom harness?

I am not bragging when I say I have a VERY good understanding of electrics. I'm 74. But I cannot work "by imagination."
 
Here's what happened to me, when I installed a CDI ignition, into my Barracuda with the wiring harness from an electroni-ignition Duster.
Because the Mopar ignition switch runs thru the dual ballast in two different directions, when in either run or in start, To power up the CDI system, I had to throw all that out and bridge the start run circuits.
Ok so far so good, except in Run, the starter relay is now continuously energized. Not enough to cause it to kick the starter on, but current is running thru the coil at all times. my car has a clutch, so everytime I depressed the pedal, this grounded the Starter relay and so the starter would engage, engine running or not.
When the Ignition switch was turned to off, this cut the power to the relay, and the engine shut off just fine.
The cure for this was to run the Ignition amp off the battery with a relay on the fused start/run circuit, and IIRC I installed a diode on the starter relay to prevent it engaging in "Run"

The point is this;
you never know what just one tiny change to the factory wiring, will end up doing.
In my case, all I did was bridge the start and run wires, and "all hell" broke loose, lol.
 
I did not mess with the stock wiring. Only thing I did was not use the ballast that is on top of coil. Because that reduces volts down to 6 or 7 for the points ignition. The electronic ignition needs the full 12 volts. I think it's probably the voltage regulator acting up. Today it turned off just fine.

The only thing I'm trying to figure out now is fuel pump. I have a fuel pump relay installed. I'd like to some how have the pump turn on only when cranking or engine running. Is that possible?

The starter selinoid us on the inner fender and is new, and wired according to shop manual wiring diagram.
 
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