My 414 Build- Almost done

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64physhy

64physhy

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Location
Weatherford, TX
I've been working on building this for about 6 months now. Here's what's in it:
360 block, +.060
Eagle Forged Crank
Hughes Main Stud Girdle
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Hughes 3742 cam (237/242 dur)
KB 745 Forged Step-dish pistons with .030 milled off the step.
Hughes Ported Iron Ram Heads, 2.055 intake valves, beehive springs.
PRW Stainless 1.65:1 roller rockers with a Jomar rocker stud girdle
Port Matched Edelbrock Airgap RPM
Proform 750 racing carb
MSD E-curve distributor (on the way)

I'm thinking I should get close to 500 HP out of it. A bigger cam would get me over that.

P1010360.jpg


P1010362.JPG
 
Looks nice. You're not planning to hotrod it are you? :snakeman: How much block clearancing was necessary to fit the H-beam rods?
 
looks nice, a spacer under the carb will help with a few HP if you have the hood room.
 
ou812, don't know if I'll dyno or not. I need to check around and see what it runs to dyno. I'd prefer to break it in and get it tuned on a dyno before putting it in, but it depends on cost. I'm already way over budget on this.

'64 Cuda, Had to put about a 1/4" notch at the bottom of the bores for rod clearance.

1wild&crazyguy, Haven't bolted the intake on yet. I'll get some pics tomorrow.

EL5DEMON340, I have a 1" spacer I might use under the carb if I have the hood clearance.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
if you haven't bolted up the intake 4 keeps, could you post pics of the intake ports?
Click to expand...

Here are some crappy cell phone pics. I started by checking the gaskets on the heads, then on the intake. I used a Sharpie to mark the port openings and opened them up. I used telescoping gages to get a measurement of the openings, then opened up the ports as far in as I could reach. The bottleneck in all of them seemed to be about an inch inside the ports on the head side. The closer to the carb they get, they open up more. The glare on the second pic makes it look like they are all crooked, but they are not. This is my first time of doing this.

intake ports.jpg


010110_2216.jpg
 
64physhy said:
I've been working on building this for about 6 months now. Here's what's in it:
360 block, +.060
Eagle Forged Crank
Hughes Main Stud Girdle
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Hughes 3742 cam (237/242 dur)
KB 745 Forged Step-dish pistons with .030 milled off the step.
Hughes Ported Iron Ram Heads, 2.055 intake valves, beehive springs.
PRW Stainless 1.65:1 roller rockers with a Jomar rocker stud girdle
Port Matched Edelbrock Airgap RPM
Proform 750 racing carb
MSD E-curve distributor (on the way)

I'm thinking I should get close to 500 HP out of it. A bigger cam would get me over that.
Click to expand...
I used that cam in a 416 and dynoed at 535hp and 533 tq. I used eddy heads with 10:1 pistons, 650 demon carb, airgap RPM. So I would think you would be similar.
 
Mad Dart said:
64,

Damn those are some good looking Valve Covers!!!!

Louis
Click to expand...

Thanks. I see why you had those thick cometic gaskets doubled up on them. The baffles just barely clear the tall locks that come with the girdle, even with double gaskets. I still haven't been able to find those covers, except a couple sets on ebay. Thanks for the great deal on the set
 
wireweld said:
I used that cam in a 416 and dynoed at 535hp and 533 tq. I used eddy heads with 10:1 pistons, 650 demon carb, airgap RPM. So I would think you would be similar.
Click to expand...

My compression is right at 10:1. I would use a thinner gasket (using a .048" thick one now), but I measured my valve to piston clearance at .08 on the intake and .1 on the exhaust, so I guess 10:1 is as good as I'll get with these pistons. If I did it over, I wouldn't get the step dish pistons, at least not with closed chamber heads.
 
64physhy said:
Thanks. I see why you had those thick cometic gaskets doubled up on them. The baffles just barely clear the tall locks that come with the girdle, even with double gaskets. I still haven't been able to find those covers, except a couple sets on ebay. Thanks for the great deal on the set
Click to expand...

The motor looks really nice!! I hope you get it running soon.

By the way ou812 " Brian " did ALL the work on my heads & after I completed the assembly he Dyno Tuned my engine.

He knows Mopars!!
 
Sorry I meant the heads intake ports.

I'm curious what it is that hughes does and how much pinch those heads have.

They say it's proprietary, of corse once we've seen them it wouldn't be any secret after that and might just help hundreds of people go fast.
 
Looking forward from you telling us how it runs/performs!
Looks awesome!
 
Well, the intakes on now. They shape the runners more than others. The bottom of the runners have a hump down the center.
 
64physhy said:
ou812, don't know if I'll dyno or not. I need to check around and see what it runs to dyno. I'd prefer to break it in and get it tuned on a dyno before putting it in, but it depends on cost. I'm already way over budget on this.

'64 Cuda, Had to put about a 1/4" notch at the bottom of the bores for rod clearance.

1wild&crazyguy, Haven't bolted the intake on yet. I'll get some pics tomorrow.

EL5DEMON340, I have a 1" spacer I might use under the carb if I have the hood clearance.
Click to expand...
Good idea to dyno and tune it while its out of the engine..if you can afford it. I did and i am glad i did. I had the valves out of adjustment and the carb was all messed up. The dyno shop I used really did a good job helping me with all that. Now I know the engine is set up to start when I am ready. I used Vaca Performance in Downey. John runs the dyno. If you bring your own oils(I use Royal Purple..so do they) the cost is around $500 and you get around 5 runs..more if needed. They will video tape the runs and provide a bunch of print outs. You will be there all day. Here is their web address:
http://www.vacaperformance.com/services_engine.html
 
64physhy said:
I've been working on building this for about 6 months now. Here's what's in it:
360 block, +.060
Eagle Forged Crank
Hughes Main Stud Girdle
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Hughes 3742 cam (237/242 dur)
KB 745 Forged Step-dish pistons with .030 milled off the step.
Hughes Ported Iron Ram Heads, 2.055 intake valves, beehive springs.
PRW Stainless 1.65:1 roller rockers with a Jomar rocker stud girdle
Port Matched Edelbrock Airgap RPM
Proform 750 racing carb
MSD E-curve distributor (on the way)

I'm thinking I should get close to 500 HP out of it. A bigger cam would get me over that.
Click to expand...


How much to build me one of those???
 
KP said:
How much to build me one of those???
Click to expand...

I don't think you want me to. This is the first engine I've done bottom to top. I don't even wan to add up all the receipts. Not to mention all the parts I bought and decided not to use that I lost money on. I've probably got about $7K+ in parts and machining in it.
 
64physhy said:
Well, the intakes on now. They shape the runners more than others. The bottom of the runners have a hump down the center.
Click to expand...

ahh... just like regular magnum heads then, fin on the floor, massive pinch, with the far wall bulge?

more than others? are they cnc'd or done by hand?

I wonder if they do 1 port in/ex flow it and then just mirror the rest?
 
ou812 said:
Are you going to dyno it?
Click to expand...
I just noticed your .sig

If I had known about you earlier I would have had my engine dyno'd at your shop. Vaca was good..but you are FABO. I will support you next time.

Doug
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
looks nice, a spacer under the carb will help with a few HP if you have the hood room.
Click to expand...

I just took some measurements, and it looks like it should clear with a spacer. I didn't realize it before, but the Air Gap is only about an inch taller than the Performer. With the current set-up (Performer, 1" carb spacer, eddy carb with 1" air cleaner spacer) I have 1" clearance, so the Airgap with the spacer and no aircleaner spacer should be about the same.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
ahh... just like regular magnum heads then, fin on the floor, massive pinch, with the far wall bulge?

more than others? are they cnc'd or done by hand?

I wonder if they do 1 port in/ex flow it and then just mirror the rest?
Click to expand...

I'm really don't know a whole lot about porting. They are done by hand, not CNC. All the intake ports look the same, and they knocked out most of the bulge. The exhaust ports look like more could have been taken out, but like I said, I don't know much about porting.
 
I finally got it installed today. Just need to finish hooking everything up and finish the wiring in the trunk and on the fuel pump. The wiring is all ran, just need to make the connections.
 
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