My 440 Build. Which intake and WHY ?

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rrvolare said:
Somebody said they do not make the Performer RPM any longer ????? i just bought one ....
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They make the RPM. They changed some of the embossed writing on the manifolds. The Performer for a 440 now says "PERFORMER 440". Not sure of any design changes.
 
If you are looking for performance, Spend your money on a 3000 -4000 converter. That will wake the car up The parts you have will not work with a stock converter. I don't car what intake you buy it will be a pig with that converter. Seeing numbers on paper never equate to reality in the seat of your pants. If your going with one of the two above. The RPM is better but not with a shitty converter. Good converters let you feel the power not just wish for it.
 
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...and heeere we go...

...might as well get a stroker kit while you're at it...
 
Oldmanmopar said:
If you are looking for performance, Spend your money on a 3000 -4000 converter. That will wake the car up The parts you have will not work with a stock converter. I don't car what intake you buy it will be a pig with that converter. Seeing numbers on paper never equate to reality in the seat of your pants. If your going with one of the two above. The RPM is better but not with a shitty converter. Good converters let you feel the power not just wish for it.
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Thanks for the info. Back in the "old days" I owned a few new-from-the-dealer Mopars. I would do what a lot of kids did back then... bigger carb, headers, re-curve the distributor, bigger tires, remove the resonators, shift kit, etc. This motor isn't far from what I played with back then. The cam and compression are about the same. And my 727 as it sits is basically the same. The Roadrunners and Super Bees came stock with about 2,000 to 2,300 stall if my old memory serves me. That's about what I have now. But getting back to the intake... why an RPM, that by dyno numbers doesn't even start to get "better" until you get the car in the over 4,000 range. My motor, based on the components in it should be petering out at 5,000/5,500. And for a street cruiser that's an rpm I would not likely approach much if ever.
 
Nobody is twisting your arm to buy the RPM. People have given multiple reasons why they would choose it, including myself. I'm looking for the same exact performance as what you are describing. I bought the regular performer because I am running stock heads and stock HP manifolds and I don't need the extra flow.

Let me ask you this,... If you're not worried about the performance increase in the upper ranges, why did you choose to go with a purple cam, aftermarket heads, an 800cfm Edelbrock carb, and TTI headers? The heads, carb, and headers are all designed to work better in the upper RPM ranges you say you aren't worried about. I guess I am having a hard time understanding why you are stopping now and arguing against the intake that will better match those other components.

Don't get me wrong,... it's your car, and you can build it how you want, but you're asking the question, then arguing with the answers. Believe me,.. I understand what you're saying. Sounds just like me in that I am not likely to spin mine much over 5000-5500 rpm. But if that is the case, you probably didn't need an 800cfm carb, aluminum heads, and a set of full length TTI headers. Again,... since you bought all those, why not pick the intake that is designed to work in the same RPM band as those?
 
1BAD72 said:
Thanks for the info. Back in the "old days" I owned a few new-from-the-dealer Mopars. I would do what a lot of kids did back then... bigger carb, headers, re-curve the distributor, bigger tires, remove the resonators, shift kit, etc. This motor isn't far from what I played with back then. The cam and compression are about the same. And my 727 as it sits is basically the same. The Roadrunners and Super Bees came stock with about 2,000 to 2,300 stall if my old memory serves me. That's about what I have now. But getting back to the intake... why an RPM, that by dyno numbers doesn't even start to get "better" until you get the car in the over 4,000 range. My motor, based on the components in it should be petering out at 5,000/5,500. And for a street cruiser that's an rpm I would not likely approach much if ever.
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I owned several. They would all brake stall at around at around 2800-3000. 440's and 383's . The 440's in our chrysler 300 we had would brake stall at 2200 -2400 same as a truck.
when we would replace or rebuild the transmissions at Cottman transmision we would always take out the higher stall. it would give the trans a longer life. We would also put part throttle kick down servos in the life time units.
 
Frnknsteen said:
Nobody is twisting your arm to buy the RPM. People have given multiple reasons why they would choose it, including myself. I'm looking for the same exact performance as what you are describing. I bought the regular performer because I am running stock heads and stock HP manifolds and I don't need the extra flow.

Let me ask you this,... If you're not worried about the performance increase in the upper ranges, why did you choose to go with a purple cam, aftermarket heads, an 800cfm Edelbrock carb, and TTI headers? The heads, carb, and headers are all designed to work better in the upper RPM ranges you say you aren't worried about. I guess I am having a hard time understanding why you are stopping now and arguing against the intake that will better match those other components.

Don't get me wrong,... it's your car, and you can build it how you want, but you're asking the question, then arguing with the answers. Believe me,.. I understand what you're saying. Sounds just like me in that I am not likely to spin mine much over 5000-5500 rpm. But if that is the case, you probably didn't need an 800cfm carb, aluminum heads, and a set of full length TTI headers. Again,... since you bought all those, why not pick the intake that is designed to work in the same RPM band as those?
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I have no idea why you think I'm "arguing" with anyone on here or why I would think my arm is being twisted. It's a forum. We're having a discussion. People provide info and opinion. It's my prerogative to do the same. I appreciate everyone's opinion. I thanked everyone. I have no idea why you feel a need to represent all of the good folks that responded but have at it. No offense intended.
You assume I bought all of the parts that are on my motor and car. I didn't. I bought a complete car about a year ago. The motor came as I listed with the one exception of the E-street heads that I bought and installed last month to raise compression and flow a little better than the stock 8.2 CR heads. I'm ready for an intake and just want to be as sure as I can be about which one to install.
Those heads are Edelbrock's entry level. Idle to 5,500. That cam is idle to 5,800. The orange box is up to 6,000. All within 500 rpm of each other. Both Performer intakes may work ok but I was hoping someone may have a definitive reason why one over the other on a mild build. No worries. I appreciate the input from everyone.
 
1BAD72 said:
I have no idea why you think I'm "arguing" with anyone on here or why I would think my arm is being twisted. It's a forum. We're having a discussion. People provide info and opinion. It's my prerogative to do the same. I appreciate everyone's opinion. I thanked everyone. I have no idea why you feel a need to represent all of the good folks that responded but have at it. No offense intended.
You assume I bought all of the parts that are on my motor and car. I didn't. I bought a complete car about a year ago. The motor came as I listed with the one exception of the E-street heads that I bought and installed last month to raise compression and flow a little better than the stock 8.2 CR heads. I'm ready for an intake and just want to be as sure as I can be about which one to install.
Those heads are Edelbrock's entry level. Idle to 5,500. That cam is idle to 5,800. The orange box is up to 6,000. All within 500 rpm of each other. Both Performer intakes may work ok but I was hoping someone may have a definitive reason why one over the other on a mild build. No worries. I appreciate the input from everyone.
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I have read that a reg. performer is nothing but an alum. version of a stock intake, and the only performance was from being liter. I myself would go w/ the RPM if u got the hood clearance.
 
1BAD72 said:
You assume I bought all of the parts that are on my motor and car. I didn't.
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My bad,... I thought you had built the motor and I just didn't understand why you would stop now after selecting those items. It just seemed like various people were suggesting going with the RPM and giving reasons and the response was always why you didn't think you needed it. I never meant that you were being disrespectful. Quite the opposite in fact. It just seemed like you kept giving reasons why you didn't want, or didn't think you needed the RPM. My point was that you should just go with the regular performer then.

Like I said before, I am in the same boat as you. I have my 440 at the shop right now and am going through the same decision making. I have my Barracuda that I can play with more. 400 with a comp cam, higher compression pistons, Demon 750cfm, Edelbrock RPM, Shumacher Tri-Y headers, 4spd, 3:23 Suregrip (I still want it to be highway friendly). So while building my Charger, I am converting it to 4spd and don't feel like messing with interference with headers and clutch linkage like I did on my Cuda, so I am going mostly stock. I just want a good low end torque motor for cruising and the occasional throttle drop. I have a spare Demon carb I am putting on it (because I have it) but stock 906 heads and stock HP manifolds. I don't need the extra flow from the RPM, plus it sits higher and limits my air cleaner options. I'd like to fit a stock dual snorkel air cleaner in there, but don't know if it will fit, hence why I went with the regular Performer to retain as much hood clearance as possible.

So I know where you are coming from,... I'm just thinking that the low ends of each power range between the Performer and Performer RPM are both under the Stall Speed of your converter, so I don't think you will notice any issues off the start. The RPM will be coming into it's power band right before 2000-2300 stall you mentioned above, so to me, it's a non-issue and I would want the higher flow of the RPM to better match that 800 carb you have and the full tube TTI headers. I know you say you'll never wind it up, but if you do, why not let her breathe if you're not going to lose anything at the lower ranges.

Just my thoughts.....
 
I'd like to talk to this guy "Weeb". Seems he has some interesting seat of the pants experience with the Performer. I asked "Old Man Mopar" if "Weeb" is still loving his Performer. Waiting for a response. Check this out from another post on here.

Performer RPM intake?
 
If that is the stock replacement roadrunner-magnum cam duration at .050 is more like 208 in. and 220 ex. You would still be best off with the rpm but not going to make a big difference over the performer or stock magnum intake.
 
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