My '75 Scamp 383 Build

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Lets see a whole shot of the short block. Heck yeah man. Progress.
 
Oh, I should mention, the 225 and 904 need to come out so I can clean up the engine bay over the winter. With all the Pittsburghers out there: I got a nice running 225/904 real cheap.
 
Rob, ask and you shall receive. I feel like a proud Poppa!
Completed Short block 1.JPG
Completed Short Block 2.JPG

Completed Short Block 3.JPG

And all bagged up...
Completed short Block 4.JPG
 
Very nice, gonna be a good engine when you're done. Did a few myself.
 
In the first pic of the short block, your teasing us with a shot of the quarter and rear wheel & tire. I’d love to see some of the whole car! The short block looks like it’s coming along nicely. Is the water pump housing aluminum or cast that’s just painted silver?
 
That housing is an 1965 Hemi SS Aluminum piece I got from ebay for $169. I couldn't pass it up. It's media blasted and bare now. I'm painting it along with an aluminum intake (Edelbrock Performer 383) when I buy one, LOL.
 
That housing is an 1965 Hemi SS Aluminum piece I got from ebay for $169. I couldn't pass it up. It's media blasted and bare now. I'm painting it along with an aluminum intake (Edelbrock Performer 383) when I buy one, LOL.

Street Dominator would be better. Look better too. lol
 
The distributor is new, but superior to the new "Mopar Performance" aka Proform distributor. This has the Chrysler internals as original. I scored this one from Ehrenberg on eBay.
 
I didn’t realize Proform was making them for Mopar Performance. You wouldn’t happen to have his eBay name would you? I’m going to need one for my 440

They are not that I am aware of. Mallory is.
 
The Ebay seller is no other than Rick Ehrenberg, former long time tech editor of Mopar Action. :)
 
I've moved on to the cylinder heads. Using valve spring compressor tool OTC 4572, I removed the springs and valves. Nice tool! $45 on Amazon. Here's the clean valves, and a pic of one of the exhaust valves I'll be replacing. I'm not sure how to read this damage, but it appears to have "flea bites" chips around the outer edges, but not on the 45 degree surface making contact with the seat. I read this can be the start of what will eventually be a burnt valve.
Valves cleaned.JPG

And the damaged valve:
Valve flea bites.JPG

Luckily, I scored two NOS exhaust valves on ebay, they're on the way.
 
I broke down and brought the heads to a local machine shop to hot tank and "wet mag" the heads ($75). No cracks and now they're cleaner than I would have got them by hand. I'm now lapping valves for the first time.
906 Head L.JPG
Valve seats.JPG
Valves lapped.JPG
Valves resting in head.JPG
 
Hi Rob - the guides look good! Also, the valves seemed fairly easy to lap. I used the permatex valve compound and Prussian Blue. I think I'm reading it right.
 
Now you see it....
225 Slant 6 before removal.JPG


Now you don't.....
225 Slant 6 Gone.JPG


Lots of progress made over the past month or so. Next is cleaning up the engine compartment, modifying the left K frame perch, and get ready for BODY COLOR paint. I always disliked the black engine bay created by previous owner.
 
Well, The social distancing has brought me closer to the Scamp! My wife took this "action shot" lol. I've modified the driver's side perch as outlined in the Schumacher kit.
Harry drilling mounts 1.JPG

Engine mount perch before.JPG

perch drilled .JPG

perch drilled 3.JPG

left motor mount.JPG


More to come...
 
Look what Andy F. has done , amazing. Also, go to "Uncle Tony's Garage " on u-tube . I'm not here to debate builds or critique someone else's opinion . "budget" builds , imo, don't do well , in the long run . I'm not saying that you should throw money at your 383 . If you build your motor to 68-69 specs. you can't go wrong . Cleanliness and good machine work are mandatory for a long lasting machine .. I wouldn't invest more than $750on head work . Go aftermarket here . Edelbrock Top End Kits are cost effective . Clean , clean , clean and balance EVERYTHING . You won't be sorry. Good luck
 
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