My car is Missing

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Gator

Gator

Mopar or No Car
Joined
Jul 1, 2007
Messages
290
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Location
Meadville, Pa
Hey guys its not what ya think. My car is here with me. The problem I have is just yesterday my car was running fine and it has been for about 150 miles since I brought her out of the garage back in late April. Well I was crusing down the highway and I noticed that my car seem to be acting sluggish. It has aquired a slight miss and seems like its running on 7 cyl. With the 508 purple cam it seems to idle ok and starts up and shuts down fine. It only misses when you accerlate.Thought I may have a fouled plug. I had just this winter put new plugs in so I pulled all the plugs and they were all fine,even the resistors were white. I double check the gap and all were at .045 right where I had gapped them. My spark plug wires look to be in good shape. I examined every one and two of them have a slight rub mark from my valve cover and one from my throttle linkage on them but I dont see ark jump which I checked at night time in a dark garage These wires have been on the car for 4 1/2 years. I have checked the "D" cap yet. The cap and rotor was new 2 yrs ago along with the Blaster SS Coil. So my question is, before I start tearing into things, even though wires look good could there be a break down in the wires from all the heat that I cant visually see or feel? I am running 340 c.i. .030 over with MSD 6A, Headers, and I know the wires get a lot of heat. Can the Blaster Coil be causing this problem? Or how about the rotor / cap? Previously it had a tan cap but this one is black. Any difference between the colors? A friend of mine is leaning towards the spark wires being weak. What do you guys think the problem may be? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.... Thanx
 
I would start by shorting each plug wire one at a time while running and see which one isn't making power. Then go from there, check the wire ,vaccum leak on that runner, check compression.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I would start by shorting each plug wire one at a time while running and see which one isn't making power. Then go from there, check the wire ,vaccum leak on that runner, check compression.
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Yes thats a thought... process of elimination. Never thought about the vaccum. Definetly gonna check that out as well. Thanx
 
balist i had a charger 360 it would start fine and set there and run all day but when i would drop it two first a step on it it would mess fire bad ended up being the balist resister
 
moparisbest said:
balist i had a charger 360 it would start fine and set there and run all day but when i would drop it two first a step on it it would mess fire bad ended up being the balist resister
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Hmmmmm Ok... but I am running MSD 6A and I was told that the ballast aactually does nothing...Anywasy I have a good one laying around. Will do a quick swap and I'll let you know the outcome tomorrow.... Thanx
 
Very likely the plug wires. Idles perfect but rev it up and they throw sparks in headers and places that aren't easy to see.
I'd have a look under the dist. cap too but a problem in there usually causes crossfires and backfires.
 
RedFish said:
Very likely the plug wires. Idles perfect but rev it up and they throw sparks in headers and places that aren't easy to see.
I'd have a look under the dist. cap too but a problem in there usually causes crossfires and backfires.
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It doesnt back fire or anything like that. So I think I will swap one wire out at a time and see whcih one of those buggers are the culprite... Thanx RedFish
 
before you change all the wires one at a time (which is fairly time consuming), follow redfish's advice and check/change the distributor cap. At high rpm and/or load, a tiny bit of carbon, moisture, etc. can cause the exact same problem as a bad plug wire.
 
bamacuda said:
before you change all the wires one at a time (which is fairly time consuming), follow redfish's advice and check/change the distributor cap. At high rpm and/or load, a tiny bit of carbon, moisture, etc. can cause the exact same problem as a bad plug wire.
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That is what I plan on doing first and hopefully that is where the problem lies.. Thanx bamacuda
Well just got thru swapping out the black D-cap back to the Accel Tan cap and the engine does seem to run a bit smoother. Sitting at an idle in park and reving it up there is no noticeable miss,the "R"'s really climb, only when in gear starting out and going down the road there is a miss. I am now definetly leaning towards the plug wires, like a lot of people have said. I dont know if this has anything to do with it or not but in the past I have always cleaned the plug wires with a rag and a little kerosene, takes the grim and so forth right off. Now I am wondering if kerosene has penetrated the wires and this is what could be giving me problems. I will find out once I get them assembled.
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Well the problem has been found. After replacing wires, plugs, cap, rotor and new distributor in which is an upgrade to MSD Pro Billett still had the misfire. I removed the valve cover to look at the valve train to see if a srping had collapsed and low and be hold there it was, the push rod about .100 thru the top of the rocker arm. So after buying a $3.79 part my car is back together and running fine. I do have one concern, where did the piece of metal from the top of the rocker go? Its basically the same size as the end of the push rod. I did not see anything laying on the head and took a peak down inside the belly and saw nothing. Drained oil and stuck a telescopic magnet in the oil pan and went fishing and came up empty. It prolly has dropped down and is laying in the front part of the oil pan. Thanx to all you gave me advice....
 
whew,when I have a car go missing I have to mow the lawn to find it again!!
 
Well after giving it not too much thought I figured that it would be better to spend a couple of hrs now pulling off the intake to find the piece of metal than to not do it and have my motor puke because I neglected to pull the intake. well I found the piece of metal, clean on the other side of the motor laying right beside the push rod for the #5 cylinder. A little more towards the back of the engine and it would have prolly took out my cam gear and the gear that drive the oil pump... So now I can drive and wont have any worries...
 
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