My Redline Gauge Panel

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71blueduster

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Location
Hastings, Nebraska
Got my panel in this week and cut the holes and installed the gauges. The gauges are Autometer Phantoms. I also have two lights for the turn signals and one for the high beams to install. And I'll have to figure out something for the lights and wipes yet. I plan on making a new wiring harness for the gauges that I can disconnect if I need to take them out. That'll hopefully get done this weekend.

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Looks real nice! What did you have to give for that panel? I didn't know about it so I made my own, using a core.

Gauge Cluster (After) (Medium).JPG
 
Where did you buy the Phantoms? How much did they cost? If you don't mind saying. I really like the 5 inch speedo and tach, but the $$$ is scaring me.
 
Where did you buy the Phantoms? How much did they cost? If you don't mind saying. I really like the 5 inch speedo and tach, but the $$$ is scaring me.

I got the Phantoms from Summit Racing. With the 3 lights I haven't put in yet and blue light covers for the gauges the total cost was $390 shipped. All the gauges are electric except for the speedo. The speedo and tach are 3 3/8 since 5" are too big for the panel. The rest are 2 1/16.

The dash panel cost $110 plus shipping.
 
71blueduster,

That looks good! I've purchased a core cluster (which hasn't arrived yet), like Scamp, and will attempt to make my own insert.
I also have a plan to insert toggle switches to replace the rotary switches for the lights & wipe/wash stockers. This plan requires 2 toggles for lights (no cluster dimming provision though) and 2 toggles for wipe/wash (thanks to Scamp's help here). I plan on putting the 4 toggles in the dash insert vs. the metal dash frame.
If you would like to see the schematic for the toggles let me know and I'll attach or e-mail it.

Dan
 
Your cluster looks real nice. I can't wait to see a pic of it installed.
 
Dan, I have been thinking of doing something similar regarding replacing the factory controls. I am curious about how you plan on wiring it; however, I would like to Maintain the ability to use the dimmer. I will probably search catalogs for switches that might allow the stock functions.
 
Dang! You got me all excited. I was on the waiting list on the carbon fiber looking gauge pod from Redline. So I called him when I saw yours to see if mine was on the way.

He said he only got four in, and they're all gone. It will be at least another two weeks before he gets any more.

Yours looks great! How'd you cut the holes?
 
Dang! You got me all excited. I was on the waiting list on the carbon fiber looking gauge pod from Redline. So I called him when I saw yours to see if mine was on the way.

He said he only got four in, and they're all gone. It will be at least another two weeks before he gets any more.

Yours looks great! How'd you cut the holes?

I cut the holes using an adjustable hole saw. I tried to find the two sizes I needed, but none of the stores around me had them, so I bought the adjustable one. I'm sure a regular hole saw would work a lot better, but this one got the job done without tearing up the gauge panel.

I made sure to cut them a little small and then used a razor knife to deburr the edges and trim the holes a little so the gauges fit snug.
 
71blueduster,

That looks good! I've purchased a core cluster (which hasn't arrived yet), like Scamp, and will attempt to make my own insert.
I also have a plan to insert toggle switches to replace the rotary switches for the lights & wipe/wash stockers. This plan requires 2 toggles for lights (no cluster dimming provision though) and 2 toggles for wipe/wash (thanks to Scamp's help here). I plan on putting the 4 toggles in the dash insert vs. the metal dash frame.
If you would like to see the schematic for the toggles let me know and I'll attach or e-mail it.

Dan

That would be great if you could attach a schematic for the toggle switches. I don't know what I'm going to do for the lights and wipers yet.
 
Do you have a link to the manufacturer of the Redline panel?

The setup looks great8)
 
Very nice!!! Both of them!

I'm torn between a redline panel, and just welding in a face on my dash and painting it along with the rest of the metal. I just found someone with a Plasma Cam, so getting a precision cut panel to weld in should be easy.:read2:
 
71blueduster,

I cannot attach the schematic (file to large). I can e-mail it, if you like.
Unfortunately, I'm having some trouble with it working. I was out in the garage last night and could not get the wipe/wash portion to function properly.
Does anyone know any details about the factory wipe/wash switch? I assumed it is just as Scamp said, a 2P3T rotary. However, I have tried to use a 2P3T rotary for testing (before my toggles arrive) and it's a no go.
Does anyone have any details about the wiper motor itself? What I have drawn on the schematic is my interpretation of the wiper system. Does anyoune have actual details?
I need some help!!
 
Here's mine:

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I went without a tach because I didn't have enough money for one, but also because the gauges wouldn't sit center in front of my eyes if I didn't put the speedo where it is.
 
71blueduster,

I cannot attach the schematic (file to large). I can e-mail it, if you like.
Unfortunately, I'm having some trouble with it working. I was out in the garage last night and could not get the wipe/wash portion to function properly.
Does anyone know any details about the factory wipe/wash switch? I assumed it is just as Scamp said, a 2P3T rotary. However, I have tried to use a 2P3T rotary for testing (before my toggles arrive) and it's a no go.
Does anyone have any details about the wiper motor itself? What I have drawn on the schematic is my interpretation of the wiper system. Does anyoune have actual details?
I need some help!!

This may look familiar to some of you!
Remember free advice is worth what you paid for it
The factory uses a switch that could be described as double pole/triple throw (on-on-on), even though it is a rotary.
There are 4 wires leaving the factory switch
This is vewry difficult to duplicate with out a DP3T switch.
Insert Editorial Comment here ==> You probably violated the KISS principal
If I had just purchased a car where the wipers didn't work I would install a DPTT (DP3T) switch.
Make your switch behave exactly as the factory's. It is simultaneous (DPTT/DP3T).

My Philosophy:
Keep it simple and duplicate factory design wherver possible. They paid Engineers good money to make it work, cheap AND last 5 yrs/100,000 miles. And here we are 30 - 40 years later still driving/racing and improving them.

FWIW I reused the factory light and wiper switches, I just mounted them under the gauge cluster. I also added a momentary PB for the washer.
(see photos)

Here is a link to some switches:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine...4915+1323038&Ns=P_Switch+Function|1||P_SField

Put this ( "DP3T toggle" "on-on-on" ) in Google for some more leads incl EBAY.

Be sure and check you amp draw and get a switch that's rated correctly.

BTW All Electronics is a good source for components including switches and LEDs.
www.allelectronics.com

Anticipating the questions about the map lights and eyeball vents here are the links and info"

The lights came from Steinair. They also have very nice LED indicators. I almost used theirs but decided to build my own. (It's just the way I am.
http://www.steinair.com/lights.htm

I don't remember exactly where I got the vents but here are some links. Aircraft Spruce is a great source for a lot of custom "stuff". The vents are commonly called "eyeball vents" if you want to Google.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/vents.html

Wicks Also:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/

Vent info:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=30762

Both looking pretty nice, but not cheap!
http://www.airkitllc.com/

I guess these are just samples of the many things on my car that started life somewhere else. Boats, Planes, Porsche, Mustang Cobra, Cable tray, Electrical construction, military surplus, etc.




Hope this helps.
Scamp

Dash (After).JPG
 
Bryce was one of the four that got his Redline dash shipped this week,not real happy with the thickness of plastic .It seems a little flimsy to me .Im so bummed that Rmd went out of bussiness.We are going to try out the Redline dash and see what we can do with it. We will post pics when its done .I'm glad to see your pics and placement of guages,this will help out with ours.


Bob
 
I'm not sure which layout you like, there are different reasons for different layouts. I chose the one that centered the Tach over the steering wheel notch. For me that was more important than the Speedo. just in case you haven't measured the stock "panel" tapers from left to right. I wanted the 5" speedo & tach but there was just no way to fit them in.

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Got it mostly finished today. Just have to get a few wire terminals to finish it up. I also had to get a new speedometer cable since the Autometer has a screw in fitting on the gauge. O'Riellys actually had one in stock and it was only $13. Hopefully the gauges all work, because the wiring is a mess. There were 32 connections between the 6 gauges. I used the factory harness for the turn signals, fuel gauge, high beam indicator, and lights. And I'll have to touch up that green spot. I accidentally pulled off some paint with the tape I was using to mark the mounting holes.

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Well I got all the wiring finished and attached the new speedometer cable. All the gauges and turn signals work (still have to lube the bouncing speedo cable) and I didn't start my car on fire.

It looks a lot better than stock and is well worth the effort and the $550 for all the parts.

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Well as promised we got our dash finished tonight. Its not installed but for picture purposes we stuck it in. I was so tossed up between what auto meter gauges i wanted. I really like the silver lip on the sport comps so we went with those. We are almost ready to fire her up, the interior will most likely be next. more pics soon to come....

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71blueduster,

I cannot attach the schematic (file to large). I can e-mail it, if you like.
Unfortunately, I'm having some trouble with it working. I was out in the garage last night and could not get the wipe/wash portion to function properly.
Does anyone know any details about the factory wipe/wash switch? I assumed it is just as Scamp said, a 2P3T rotary. However, I have tried to use a 2P3T rotary for testing (before my toggles arrive) and it's a no go.
Does anyone have any details about the wiper motor itself? What I have drawn on the schematic is my interpretation of the wiper system. Does anyoune have actual details?
I need some help!!


Check the ground on the wiper switch. If the housing on the switch isn't properly grounded. The switch will not work or act crazy!:munky2:
 
Any current issues on the turn signals? Seeing how some are using LED turn indicators, I wonder if the turn signals on the fender, side and front are flashing faster?

Anyone fired them up and see a difference?
 
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