name of this part?

[TrailBeast]

A pickle fork can be rented at a most Checker auto stores. (and others)
It's a wedge type tool that can pop those joints apart.
Still have to hit it with a hammer, but it does not involve the stud threads at all.

if i can save them i want to. so try the fork? and TrailBeast the car doesnt have a motor in or i would drive is to a shop for them too lol. i got it out before for the header to put in. just cant this time around, and if i did hurt it, any of you got some laying around for sale lol?

 

[Dusterdude72]

I always use a pickle fork. (heave duty two pronged wedge basically).

They can be a real pain to get off some times. but hang in there and it will POP off eventually.

 

[TrailBeast]

Over the decades the terms have changed but the tool that does the job has'nt changed hardly at all right?

okay, so its not the correct technical term, but you can see where the name "pickle fork" came from....most people, not all, in the auto industry know a pickle fork as a "ball joint separator"


pickle fork - Google Search

 

[mopardude318]

Over the decades the terms have changed but the tool that does the job has'nt changed hardly at all right?

correct....

 

[bigtommy]

thank you guys for helping me out. where is the best place to buy a full front end rebuild kit?

 

[mopardude318]

u can piece together a kit urself from rockauto.com, cheaper than buying a "complete" kit....ive looking into it myself, and thats what i did...

 

[TrailBeast]

You can get them from your local Autozone or Napa, as well.
Maybe even faster, since auto zone and napa both have next day deliveries.
Most all parts are in stock or next day in the local stores, but if the employee can hook you up with them may be a different story.

u can piece together a kit urself from rockauto.com, cheaper than buying a "complete" kit....ive looking into it myself, and thats what i did...

 

[BillGrissom]

There is a "two hammer" method, apparently well-known to mechanics. Search for an article on Mustangs. I haven't tried it yet. I use a pickle fork on tie tod ends since I always replace the boot anyway. Sometimes I jam the fork in, then use a Pittman puller, putting the jaws over the fork. Of course, WD-40 soaked over-night helps. On my recent 65 Dart suspension/steering rebuild, I put anti-seize on the lower half of the studs. I hope that doesn't cause the stud to spin, but "too tight" is usually the problem when you try to remove them.

 

[72dustyer]

does any one know the name of the part in the picture with a circle around it? is goes from the wheel to the pitman arm.

I thought they were gerfriblets... Ha, but seriously a picklefork and a BFH will get them off. If they dont unthread easily m (one is LHT) then chances are you'll struggle to get one out then the other will snap off. These are cast parts ( tie rod ends) so they will snap if too much force is applied.
Heat, then quenchy with blaster on the male ends of the threads usually works best IMO

 

[72dustyer]

I always use a pickle fork. (heave duty two pronged wedge basically).

They can be a real pain to get off some times. but hang in there and it will POP off eventually.

Yeah, beat the fork in there real good and pull down on it when you smack the threaded part with the castle nut still on (but loose to prevent mushrooming of the threads. Give it heck

 

[Purple Haze]

does any one know the name of the part in the picture with a circle around it? is goes from the wheel to the pitman arm.

All that you have circled is know as the tie rod end link.